Transmission Issues - I need advice

Jasher20 · **Joined:** Wed Feb 17, 2010 10:11 am **Posts:** 8

I have a 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited. The odometer stopped and is frozen at 72520 right now. I have replaced the rear wheel sensor, which didn't change anything. I have inspected the pigtail that comes off the rear of the diff and it is fine. I have looked at most all of the other wiring and can not find any tears or rubbing. I have not inspected the front two ABS sensors but expect one of those to be the issue. I do not have a "Brake" Light or "ABS" light showing up on the dash. I also do not have them show up when I turn the key prior to start which has me real confused. Any insight would be helpful.

Also, it feels as if my torque converter is remaining locked longer than it should when shifting from 3rd to 4th. The car jolts violently before going into 4th gear. The first time I noticed this was after I had driven up a steep mountain. The temperature gauge indicated the engine increasing in temperature, but then cooled right back down after I got to flat ground. Part of me thinks all of my problems could be related to one bad sensor. In this case, the thermostat could be sticking, causing the engine to overheat, which then could cause the transmission to shift incorrectly. If any of you gurus out there could guide me through this, that would be great.

Was the torque converter recalled on '05s? I did not see the sticker on the radiator housing that says that it was replaced or anything else for that matter. I am considering taking it to Dodge to have it diagnosed.

Glend · **Posted:** Tue Jul 12, 2011 6:42 pm

Sounds like an electronics problem to me. Get a scanner on it to check for codes. There are a number of sensors that play a role in what you described (engine and transmission).

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Tue Jul 12, 2011 7:13 pm

Jasher20 wrote:

I have a 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited. The odometer stopped and is frozen at 72520 right now. I have replaced the rear wheel sensor, which didn't change anything. I have inspected the pigtail that comes off the rear of the diff and it is fine. I have looked at most all of the other wiring and can not find any tears or rubbing. I have not inspected the front two ABS sensors but expect one of those to be the issue. I do not have a "Brake" Light or "ABS" light showing up on the dash. I also do not have them show up when I turn the key prior to start which has me real confused. Any insight would be helpful.

Also, it feels as if my torque converter is remaining locked longer than it should when shifting from 3rd to 4th. The car jolts violently before going into 4th gear. The first time I noticed this was after I had driven up a steep mountain. The temperature gauge indicated the engine increasing in temperature, but then cooled right back down after I got to flat ground. Part of me thinks all of my problems could be related to one bad sensor. In this case, the thermostat could be sticking, causing the engine to overheat, which then could cause the transmission to shift incorrectly. If any of you gurus out there could guide me through this, that would be great.

Was the torque converter recalled on '05s? I did not see the sticker on the radiator housing that says that it was replaced or anything else for that matter. I am considering taking it to Dodge to have it diagnosed.

The '05s had a problem with the fan clutch that an cause over heating. If your engine gets hot, so is your trans and that can trash it out along with other problems. If you want the best mod for keeping the engine and trans cool, check out this link: http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/showthread. ... 653&page=2
Since you climb mountains, you are at a higher altitude and that does reduce your cooling capacity. The V-6 fan and severe duty Hayden fan clutch will move more air through the radiator, intercooler, ac condenser, and transmission cooler.
I get rid of the heat problem and see if the other goes away.

Jasher20 · **Joined:** Wed Feb 17, 2010 10:11 am **Posts:** 8

The transmission jerks between 3 and 4 even when its dead cold. I agree that the larger fan would probably help the heat issue. Also, i need the odometer to start reading properly again. When i do get it to start working again, will it register the correct mileage or just start from where it has been frozen?

DOC4444 · **Posted:** Tue Jul 12, 2011 11:14 pm

Odometer will just start working again. The miles since it stopped working are forever "lost". I think when you get your front speed sensor problem fixed your gearbox will stop "jerking".

DOC

Jasher20 · **Joined:** Wed Feb 17, 2010 10:11 am **Posts:** 8

I've checked the rear and front left sensors. I plan to check the front right this week. If they are all in good shape, is there anywhere else I should look?

Also, I forgot to include that my overhead computer is not working. It reads the tire pressures, but it does not record mileage or anything else for that matter, the air temperature is stuck at 66 degrees. Is there a module I should be looking at as well?

When I turn the key to the "on" position, the ABS and BRAKE lights do not illuminate. I thought they were supposed to light up for a second.

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Tue Jul 19, 2011 2:31 pm

Jasher20 wrote:

I've checked the rear and front left sensors. I plan to check the front right this week. If they are all in good shape, is there anywhere else I should look?

Also, I forgot to include that my overhead computer is not working. It reads the tire pressures, but it does not record mileage or anything else for that matter, the air temperature is stuck at 66 degrees. Is there a module I should be looking at as well?

When I turn the key to the "on" position, the ABS and BRAKE lights do not illuminate. I thought they were supposed to light up for a second.

there's a dash test you can do :SOMBRERO:

Push and hold the trip odometer button while turning the ignition on. Release the button and watch the show :mrgreen:

Jasher20 · **Joined:** Wed Feb 17, 2010 10:11 am **Posts:** 8

i did that last night and it showed the code p0401 (i think). after researching that code, i found that it probably is an issue with the egr valve. but can the egr valve control weather the odometer reads mileage?

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Tue Jul 19, 2011 2:45 pm

Jasher20 wrote:

i did that last night and it showed the code p0401 (i think). after researching that code, i found that it probably is an issue with the egr valve. but can the egr valve control weather the odometer reads mileage?

Are you saying the dash test gave you the error code?

If so that "feature" got over written with a flash along the line of many years ago :jester:

Jasher20 · **Joined:** Wed Feb 17, 2010 10:11 am **Posts:** 8

Correct, the odometer read P0410, then it flashed "done" twice.

I do not understand what you mean by the feature being overwritten with a flash.

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Tue Jul 19, 2011 3:26 pm

Jasher20 wrote:

Correct, the odometer read P0410, then it flashed "done" twice.

I do not understand what you mean by the feature being overwritten with a flash.

What I mean is You can no longr get error codes like you did on most US CRD's :frankie:

It has not been possible since one of the early flashes :grim:

All it does now for most is go through a dash test where it cycles through all guages and lights.

I brought it up because your questioning the bulbs not coming on when the key is just turned on :dizzy:

Jasher20 · **Joined:** Wed Feb 17, 2010 10:11 am **Posts:** 8

gotcha.

is there a scanner out there that can tell me exactly what the problem is as to why my odometer will not read mileage?

GreenDieselEngineering · **Joined:** Sun Jun 07, 2009 5:10 pm **Posts:** 1111

The dealer scan tool is your best option for a problem of this nature (DRB III).

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Tue Jul 19, 2011 8:09 pm

GreenDieselEngineering wrote:

The dealer scan tool is your best option for a problem of this nature (DRB III).

.......or starscan for 2006+ vehicles.

camo · **Posted:** Tue Jul 19, 2011 8:38 pm

Joe Romas wrote:

Jasher20 wrote:

I've checked the rear and front left sensors. I plan to check the front right this week. If they are all in good shape, is there anywhere else I should look?

Also, I forgot to include that my overhead computer is not working. It reads the tire pressures, but it does not record mileage or anything else for that matter, the air temperature is stuck at 66 degrees. Is there a module I should be looking at as well?

When I turn the key to the "on" position, the ABS and BRAKE lights do not illuminate. I thought they were supposed to light up for a second.

there's a dash test you can do :SOMBRERO:

Push and hold the trip odometer button while turning the ignition on. Release the button and watch the show :mrgreen:

weeeeeee I just did it and enjoy it as much as watching transformers III, also I did it on my wife's patriot but the most impressive was my 2010 ram as the evic and even the large sreen radio light on and off showing all funtions :mrgreen:

just made my day :BANANA:

Jasher20 · **Joined:** Wed Feb 17, 2010 10:11 am **Posts:** 8

do you know what the deal charges on average to do the scan?

camo · **Posted:** Tue Jul 19, 2011 10:42 pm

river oaks jeep in Houston TX charges 110 bucks to scan and clear your codes or do any flash to the ECM. !!wonder why its call the stealership!!

GreenDieselEngineering · **Joined:** Sun Jun 07, 2009 5:10 pm **Posts:** 1111

As above, most every dealership will charge a $100 to scan the vehicle. It takes almost 1 minute to do the job! That equates to $6000 per hour....not bad, if you are a dealership!

Jasher20 · **Joined:** Wed Feb 17, 2010 10:11 am **Posts:** 8

That is absurd but I it doesn't look like i'm going have any other option. Do other shops have the scanner or does Chrysler dodge just carry it?

GreenDieselEngineering · **Joined:** Sun Jun 07, 2009 5:10 pm **Posts:** 1111

a few independent shops will have dealer scan tools, you just need to call around and check locally. A DRB runs about $3000 off ebay, not exactly a bargain.

Transmission Issues - I need advice

Who is online