Loss of power 06 CRD 110,000 kms.

08RK · **Joined:** Thu Aug 11, 2011 4:01 pm **Posts:** 12

I've installed EHM, cleaned MAP sensor, disconnected MAF sensor, replaced fuel filter, air filter and had to put an 'e' clip on the linkage to the turbo as it had become disconnected from the vacuum valve.There seems to be lots of constant vacuum. I've also removed and cleaned the charge air hoses and examined for splits and cracks. None.
I still have a loss of power usually after stopping at a stop sign to idle. I can slowly pick up speed if on a level road but can barely pull away on an incline.
Sometimes I can slip it into neutral quickly and rev it up slightly a couple of times and it might help clear the problem, only for it to happen again at the next stop sign.
I noticed my MAP sensor had two small 'bulbs' on the end not one as shown. Is this normal and if so is the MAP sensor temperature sensitive enough to cause the loss of power to happen when the engine is warm and just idling?
Any other suggestions appreciated.

racertracer · **Posted:** Thu Aug 11, 2011 7:39 pm

I am guessing and suspect that a stuck egr valve maybe the culprit.

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Thu Aug 11, 2011 7:44 pm

old or new style fuel head?

08RK · **Joined:** Thu Aug 11, 2011 4:01 pm **Posts:** 12

racertracer wrote:

I am guessing here and suspect that a stuck egr valve maybe the culprit.

I still have the MAF sensor disconnected. Does that not eliminate the possibility of the EGR being in use?

08RK · **Joined:** Thu Aug 11, 2011 4:01 pm **Posts:** 12

ATXKJ wrote:

old or new style fuel head?

I did read about the fuel head in the forum before, but don't remember how to tell the difference. Would this be common only when the engine is warm?

papaindigo · **Posted:** Fri Aug 12, 2011 6:52 am

Don't know about warm vs. cold engine but the 1st gen fuel head has a noticeably smaller fuel heater electric plug in (driver's side) and the 2nd gen fuel heater plug in is essentially the same size as the other electrical plug. Plus there should be an obvious splice in the 2 wires leading the the fuel heater plug for the new pigtail and, at least on the 3 I have seen, the fuel heater plug has a bright blue cap. If you don't have the 2n gen head you should get one (FYI it comes with a new filter and water sensor installed) and the wiring pigtail. With a 1st gen head you might have an air in the fuel problem. Blead the current head and see if it helps.

Other thoughts 1) clogged fuel filter can cause poor performance or 2) you might have a Flow Control Valve stuck closed or partially closed.

08RK · **Joined:** Thu Aug 11, 2011 4:01 pm **Posts:** 12

Thanks for the info. I'm headed out to check those things now.
I've just put in a new fuel filter. I've had the problem before and after changing it. I will try and bleed it again.
I had disconnected the FCV assuming it would leave it fully open but will take the hose off and have a look to make sure it isn't sticking.
I have the EHM installed but am also going to take the pressure regulator valve off and see how clogged up it is. When I cleaned my MAP it was sooted up.
As I said before I have my MAF sensor unplugged so I assume that the EGR can't be the problem as it should be disabled.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Fri Aug 12, 2011 8:07 am

When you changed the fuel filter did you make sure that both old gaskets came off? The inner (small) gasket sometimes does not and leaving it on can cause problems.

FYI re the 2 bulbs on your MAP sensor. That's not normal and I have no clue if it's a problem. As I recall the part is not expensive.

Topan · **Posted:** Fri Aug 12, 2011 10:50 am

I am just coming out of loss of power but i had an OBD: P0299-BOOST PRESSURE SENSOR POSITIVE DEVIATION. replaced the MAP-MAF and hoses.
Finally it was a vaccum line, here is the thread: viewtopic.php?f=5&t=61240
I cleaned mine with WD40, seemed to work well. but i used a tooth brush, and i would not recomment this. but a paint brush instead, this should avoid shaking the yellow stuffs to much.

As per the look of the MAP, here are some pics of before and new:

After 90'000 miles:

New:

Good luck !
Hope this helps !

08RK · **Joined:** Thu Aug 11, 2011 4:01 pm **Posts:** 12

I did check the gaskets. OK
I think you're right I will order the MAP anyway as its cheaper than taking it in to get another scan for codes.
I also bled the fuel filter again and it did have some air in it.
I plan on taking it for a good run to let it heat up again to see if there's any change.
Thanks for the help.
I'l be posting results later.

08RK · **Joined:** Thu Aug 11, 2011 4:01 pm **Posts:** 12

Thanks again. I did read your thread about the vacuum hoses and checked all mine too. I moved the coolant resevoir to make sure it didn't have any holes and all was OK.
My MAP is clean and I took the regulator off and checked it also.
The FCV was not stuck either.
All good things to verify.
I did find some air in my fuel filter and reprimed it thanks to another suggestion.
Test drive to follow again.

08RK · **Joined:** Thu Aug 11, 2011 4:01 pm **Posts:** 12

Other thoughts 1) clogged fuel filter can cause poor performance or 2) you might have a Flow Control Valve stuck closed or partially closed.[/quote]

Follow up to these suggestions.
I changed out the filter head for the new one and still have the loss of power problem.
I'm going to change the MAP sensor next as I don't know what else to check.
I'm hoping this will be the solution.

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Tue Aug 23, 2011 8:05 pm

recheck the air in the fuel head by pumping the primer.

if you still have air - you may be leaking it in earlier in the line -
the connections at the tank are for a pressurized system (i.e. the V6) and they occasionally leak under vacuum (i.e. Diesel)

08RK · **Joined:** Thu Aug 11, 2011 4:01 pm **Posts:** 12

ATXKJ wrote:

recheck the air in the fuel head by pumping the primer.

if you still have air - you may be leaking it in earlier in the line -
the connections at the tank are for a pressurized system (i.e. the V6) and they occasionally leak under vacuum (i.e. Diesel)

Thanks - I'll check for that tonight.
I asked in an earlier thread about the EGR valve. I have the MAF sensor unplugged. Do you know if the EGR still could affect the performance. I was under the impression it would be disabled and could not be the cause of loss of power when the MAF is unplugged.

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Wed Aug 24, 2011 9:41 pm

08RK wrote:

I was under the impression it would be disabled and could not be the cause of loss of power when the MAF is unplugged.

me too.

CATCRD · **Posted:** Wed Aug 24, 2011 10:54 pm

If the MAF is unplugged EGR is reduced almost to zero, but not quite. Plus if the EGR valve is stuck open then merely unplugging the MAF will not re-close it.

08RK · **Joined:** Thu Aug 11, 2011 4:01 pm **Posts:** 12

CATCRD wrote:

If the MAF is unplugged EGR is reduced almost to zero, but not quite. Plus if the EGR valve is stuck open then merely unplugging the MAF will not re-close it.

Sorry for the delay in posting - busy moving and biking (short season here)

With my loss of power it only happens occasionally, so do you think that it could still be the EGR with the MAF unplugged.
If so i'm going to take the time and take the EGR off and check it.
I have since changed out the fuel filter head to a new style and am still having the same problem.

Loss of power 06 CRD 110,000 kms.

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