P0299 low boost, but hoses seems ok... help!

quebeccrd · **Posted:** Wed Jun 29, 2011 8:22 pm

My 2005 CRD got a cel today. I was accelerating from a light (semi-hard acceleration) and then there was another light... accelerating from the second one and suddenly the cel came on and the power seemed lower.

So now the jeep is defenitevely less powerful, but it is far from no power at all. You have to want to accelerate fast to find that there's a problem (beside the cell).

I inspected the hoses, the one on the turbo side was oily on the inside, but it looks like there's no hole in it. The intake one looks ok too, but i didn't removed it. There's no oil visible in the engine compartment.

The key trick told me the P0299 and P1205 codes.

I cleaned my MAP sensor yesterday with Maf sensor cleaner. It was oily and not dry.

The jeep seems driveable. Is there a problem to drive it until i resolve the problem?

Do you think it's the hoses even if i don't see anything wrong?

the jeep has 65000 mi and i think that it's the original hoses but i'm not absolutely sure.

Thank you guys!

TJ2 · **Posted:** Thu Jun 30, 2011 12:23 am

I got the P0299 when I first bought my CRD. It had new CAC hoses and the map/boost pressure sensor was cleaned by me. Keith suggested the EGR. I went with an Eco tune and have never seen the code again after 15k miles of driving. I believe it was, if fact, the EGR.

as always, YMMV

quebeccrd · **Posted:** Thu Jun 30, 2011 11:07 am

i read the other posts on this subject...

if i could be sure it is the hoses, i would rpelace them, but i am not, that's why i'm asking you

is there anything i can look/try to diagnose this?

I try to do some hard accelerations, there's usually black smoke under hard and the jeep seems to get better...

could this be just carbon buildup?

i have the gde eco tune since 10000 miles

GreenDieselEngineering · **Joined:** Sun Jun 07, 2009 5:10 pm **Posts:** 1111

The CAC hose from intercooler back to engine is the most common to fail. It ususally tears on the bottom side and requires removal of hose and protective wrap to visually inspect. You can also have someone rev the engine in park while watching the hoses to see it pressure is built and listen for air rushing noises that are out of the ordinary. The error code P1205 does not exist, could you verify that is the correct fault code?

click23 · **Joined:** Thu May 11, 2006 9:22 am **Posts:** 309

I had one that had a small slit in it that I didn't even see after I took it off and visually inspected it. I had to actually blow in one end and cap off the other with my hand before I actually found it. Also be sure to check the hose that runs from the turbo to the intercooler. They seem to have close to a 100% failure rate, they tend to degrade and finally fall apart just above the clamp.

quebeccrd · **Posted:** Thu Jun 30, 2011 2:19 pm

i will recheck the hoses more carefully... maybe i didn't see the first time

do i need a flexible drill attachment to get to the clamp?

it's the key trick that gave me the codes, so i guess the code 1205 is in fact 1250..??

can i remove a turbo failure from the possibilities?

thanks to all

papaindigo · **Posted:** Thu Jun 30, 2011 3:09 pm

You do not need a flexible drill attachment to get to the clamp; a long regular screwdriver works just fine. I got one with an 8" shaft, been needing one for years, and it worked great. FYI while you have the turbo>intercooler hose off be sure to inspect, remove if possible, the air box to turbo hose as that one also tends to fail just before the clamp at the lower end. Nothing like direct unfiltered air flow to the turbo; replacement is OEM only but it's only like $60 although you may have to wait a day or so for it to come in.

As I recall MrMopar or someone said the key retrieval method returns results that need to have the last 2 digits transposed so your code is probably P1250-VACUUM RESERVOIR SOLENOID OPEN CIRCUIT. I suspect this is the same solenoid referred to in the discussion at viewtopic.php?f=5&t=53165&p=652115&hilit=solenoid#p652115. If so try the bypass and see if that helps.

I doubt you have a turbo failure since it appears you have some boost but not a lot. My personal bet is turbo>intercooler>engine hose even if you have looked at them. They need to be pulled off and carefully inspected especially on the bottom although the GDE method to check on the engine may give you a quick idea. If you have the original hoses at least the turbo>intercooler one has a removable nylon mesh covering; if the hose is 1st gen OEM and it feels like a sponge soaked in oil you either have a hole/tear now or will very soon. As noted by some the hole(s) can be hard to spot.

Recalling some other chats it's also possible that you FCV (air flow control valve) has failed at least partially closed. The FCV has plastic gears that can easily strip and it usually fails open but not always. If it fails closed or partially closed as I recall it cuts into your boost. Check toward the end of this post viewtopic.php?f=5&t=61012&p=679339&hilit=flow+control*#p679339 Apparently a functional FCV is not engine critical and it can be left non-functional so long as the butterfly is in the open position.

GreenDieselEngineering · **Joined:** Sun Jun 07, 2009 5:10 pm **Posts:** 1111

P1250 would cause the low boost as no vacuum is getting to the turbo to close the vanes. Check out the thread posted above, but you can just bypass the on/off solenoid to see if vehicle returns to normal operation. It can function indefinitely like that with a CEL or you can replace the part at your leasure to clear the CEL. Hopefully this is your issue...least expensive to fix.

quebeccrd · **Posted:** Fri Jul 01, 2011 11:40 am

inspecting the hoses carefully, i just found this little thing (picture).

Do you think it is enough to cause low boost? i can'T see anything from the inside the hose, no hole or anything... but maybe i just can'T see it?? i don't know

i will try the solenoid thing if i can figure what to unplug and to replug!!

thanks!

quebeccrd · **Posted:** Fri Jul 01, 2011 12:48 pm

ok, i think i solve my issue... but still got the cel on...

i bypass the solenoid and from a quick road test, the power seems to be back.

here's a picture, can you tell me a did the good thing?

so i disconnected the little hose from where the red arrow is and replugged it where the yellow arrow is (VAC port).

i heard like a deflating noise when i did that and also when i opened the hood after my quick road test, is this ok?

If i did right, i should order the solenoid and replace it, right?

thanks!!

DynoPax · **Posted:** Fri Jul 01, 2011 1:56 pm

Yep, that's what I did and it helped alleviate the issue until I got a replacement part. When the issue occured, I recall a slight loss of power but more significant was the unstable RPM... The engine kept rev-unrev due to improper vane operation.

About that obvious rip in the CAC, I believe it is more than enough to consider it a good candidate for discard. Notice how oily the surface is, sure sign of degradation. I recommend the Samco's, went that road and don't regret it, considering the not so big of a difference in price with the OEM ones...

Bonne chance et amuse-toi bien avec ton CRD :JEEPIN:

Translation: Good luck and have fun with your CRD!

quebeccrd · **Posted:** Fri Jul 01, 2011 2:12 pm

thanks Dynopax,

where did you get your samco's? ebay?

i haven't found an online shop that ships samco's to canada yet...

papaindigo · **Posted:** Fri Jul 01, 2011 2:33 pm

Folks get their Samcos from Boost Controller (http://www.boostcontroller.com/index.php?category=328). They will ship to Canada but orders have to be placed by phone. Click on the link **Canadian Orders** about 1/2 way down the page on the left side of the screen.

GreenDieselEngineering · **Joined:** Sun Jun 07, 2009 5:10 pm **Posts:** 1111

The CEL will remain until you replace the on/off solenoid. The only benefit that part provides is overnight storage of vacuum in the plastic reservoir so the turbo has vacuum immediately during the start. Without it you have a 2-10 second wait before the engine vacuum pump evacs the lines enough for the turbo vanes to move.

Great picture showing what you did! X2 on the Samcos

WolverineFW · **Posted:** Mon Jul 04, 2011 2:46 am

papaindigo wrote:

Folks get their Samcos from Boost Controller (http://www.boostcontroller.com/index.php?category=328). They will ship to Canada but orders have to be placed by phone. Click on the link **Canadian Orders** about 1/2 way down the page on the left side of the screen.

I order mine from them and they were shipped to Canada. Like papaindigo said, you have to phone them to order.

quebeccrd · **Posted:** Mon Jul 04, 2011 7:46 am

thanks very much to everyone!

jeep's back to normal, will have to order the solenoid to clear the cel tough...

budmeister · **Posted:** Tue Aug 30, 2011 5:10 pm

quebeccrd wrote:

thanks Dynopax,

where did you get your samco's? ebay?

i haven't found an online shop that ships samco's to canada yet...

I just got a quote from http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk

Hoses plus shipping to Canada - 206.48 Pounds Sterling. Conversion rate as I write this is $330.45

Im now going to shop around but at least I KNOW I can get them from England.

glaspak845 · **Posted:** Fri Sep 02, 2011 9:03 pm

The jeep threw a P0299 and P0401 code today. The local auto parts store did the scan and said to take the EGR off and clean it before ordering the part (special order only ~$210) any thoughts on this approach or should I just order the part and replace since I will have the part off anyway?

It's currently driveable, no noticeable loss of power. the CEL is on (no blinking) and the ESP, Traction Control and ABS lights go on from time to time along with a chime, then flash off. Also, odometer now works spairingly and the dash lights go bright, dim, bright, etc.

Thanks,

Mike

CATCRD · **Posted:** Sun Sep 04, 2011 9:32 pm

glaspak845 wrote:

The jeep threw a P0299 and P0401 code today. The local auto parts store did the scan and said to take the EGR off and clean it before ordering the part (special order only ~$210) any thoughts on this approach or should I just order the part and replace since I will have the part off anyway?

It's currently driveable, no noticeable loss of power. the CEL is on (no blinking) and the ESP, Traction Control and ABS lights go on from time to time along with a chime, then flash off. Also, odometer now works spairingly and the dash lights go bright, dim, bright, etc.

Thanks,

Mike

All those gremlins together sounds more like a chafed wire harness shorting. Check the bundles around the fuel filter and top of engine.

glaspak845 · **Posted:** Mon Sep 05, 2011 1:54 pm

Looked around this morning and nothing caught my eye. What I can't figure out is how to remove the panel below the steering wheel to check the wiring entering the interior through the firewall, I gave it a tug on the top and it didn't seem to budge, I gave up on that approach until I figured it out so I didn't break any of the clips. Can anybody provide any help on how to remove the panel and check the wiring under the dash?

Thanks.

P0299 low boost, but hoses seems ok... help!

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