The CEL has been on and off the last couple of months for
the EGR sticking. I ordered a gasket from Rock Auto last night,
decided to remove the EGR and give it a good cleaning.

I would do the ORM, but don't want the CEL staring at me.

Anything else I need to know before I tear into it?

John

My recommendation is to clean the elbow from the flow control valve to the inlet manifold, leave the EGR valve alone, and get a GDE tune which disables the EGR and eliminates the CEL. If the EGR solenoid is bad, cleaning the EGR won't help. Here's what the elbow can look like: http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=60230

As stated in the GDE documentation, they reduce but do not eliminate the EGR.
Best option is to plate and do the SEGR if you don't want the EGR going into your engine.

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I'll go ahead and clean the elbow for now..... Did you have to replace any gaskets?
Other than the CEL for the EGR, I have had zero problems in just over a year of
ownership.... 61,000 miles......

Thanks for the help,
John

I reused the gaskets, but you could always make a gasket with a suitable sealant compound.
I predict that by the time you get the elbow out your enthusiasm for pulling the EGR valve will have diminished considerably.

This.

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Only 33,000 miles and it was that dirty? WOW!!!

I'm gonna take the elbow off this weekend and clean
it out..... Too bad the whole top of the engine has to
come off to clean the intake out..............

I have to change the diff fluids too..... Haven't done
them since I've owned her.....

John

Removed the elbow and cleaned it tonight.
It looked like the one in Wobbly's pics!!!!

Mostly soot, very little oil. Removed and cleaned
the EGR tube that clamps to the bottom too.

The CEL is still on, not sure if I have to have it
cleared or if there is still a problem..... Might have
to have it scanned again......

I did remove the battery for more working room,
thought that would have cleared the CEL.....

John

CELs can generally only be cleared by 1) a scanner but the CEL will come back if the problem is still there or 2) sometimes a variable number of restarts after the problem has been fixed. By variable I mean somewhere between 3 and 10 depending on the underlying problem. Battery removal won't do it as the codes are stored in flash memory that's not dependent on power.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

At least for transmission DTCs, it can take up to 40 restarts to clear a code. The restarts have to be from a cold engine and the engine has to reach a certain temperature before stopping for a start cycle to be registered.

Dismantled the thing again........ Took the EGR off
and cleaned it out really good. It was pretty much
locked up with soot.

Going to replace the two coolant hoses going to the
EGR, they are a little soft. Blew out the heat exchanger
and the housing with compressed air. Should have it all
back together tomorrow!!!

John

Congratulations!
Did you test the valve to see if the solenoid can open it?
What solvent did you use to clean the valve?
What are you using for the replacement hose?
Did you have to cut off the old hoses or did it pull off?

I did not test the solenoid, but the valve was pretty crusty.
The CEL has been on and off, I think the solenoid is fine.
I took the solenoid off and cleaned the EGR with spray carb
cleaner and a little stiff nylon brush. It moves really smooth now.
I also cleaned the inside of the housing where the EGR mounts.
There is some kind of grill or screen where the EGR connects
to the heat exchanger, it was all plugged up.

I was able to pull the old hoses off after turning them with a
pair of pliers.

I bought transmission cooler hose, they told me it was rated for
heat and pressure. The only other hose they had in 5/16 was for
fuel, so I bought the tranny hose.

John

So how many hours do you think that you will have in it when it's back together?

Total, probably six hours.... That includes removing
and cleaning the elbow the first time, and then doing
the EGR clean.....

John

Since you did the cleaning job yourself you saved yourself a lot of money. For those without the skill or inclination to tackle the job, I still recommend the GDE tune. I doubt that most shops would clean the EGR, since there is a possibility the solenoid might fail, even with a clean valve. Considering shop labor, and the cost of new EGR parts, the GDE tune looks like cheaper option, with the added benefit of better fuel economy and performance.

I would like to get the ECO tune at some point, just
can't right now......

It was a lot of work, but it should be good to go for
quite a while now.......

John

I have to do the same thing. My EGR vavle is throwing a code. I have the FCV off and will remove the elbow tomorrow. Any tips on how to get the EGR out would be greatly appreciated. Do you get at it from the top or from underneth? Do you have to drain the coolant first?

_________________
2006 Black Limited CRD

I used an 8mm socket and a long extension to remove the intake elbow, worked good to get to
the two back bolts......

I removed the battery, the CAC hose,the fuel inlet hose to the filter head.Unbolted the fuel filter head and set it in the battery tray.
I removed the EGR from the top, there are four long skinny bolts holding it on. One of them is close to the intake
manifold, and my 1/4" ratchet would not fit so I used a 1/4" "breaker bar" to get to that one. I didn't drain the
coolant, I put a drain pan under the jeep. Then I removed the clamps from the coolant lines and turned them with
pliers to break them loose. I removed them one at a time and quickly plugged them with a bolt. When I put it back together,
I replaced both hoses one at a time. I didn't lose much coolant. I completely removed the elbow from the heat exchanger to
the intake elbow. Then unbolted the inlet pipe to the EGR. It came out without much trouble. I used anti-sieze on the bolts
when I put it back together. I removed the solenoid from the EGR and soaked and sprayed the EGR with carb cleaner and compressed
air. I cleaned out the heat exchanger with air and a stiff nylon brush............ Hope this helps.......

Runs like a top, no CEL since......

Great job!

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