ouch! oil in the intake

RFCRD · **Posted:** Tue Mar 28, 2006 10:43 am

I wouldn't mess with design of the Provent, it works fine. Judging by the amount of water collected, I definately would not put steel wool into this.

I used clear hoses on my install, input side is now black and coated with goop, output is completely clean. Drain goes into a bottle that mounted behind the front bumper which is now collecting oil sludge. Used a bicycle water bottle holder mounted sideways, screwed into underside of the bumper support to hold the sludge bottle. I also wanted some rise to the CCV lines so ran my lines along the firewall above the coolant surge tank. Had to build a "J" pipe out of two 3/4 in. copper street 90's followed by a 45 to slope this upward toward the firewall. This way whatever oil condenses out can run back into the motor.

tired_old_dave · **Joined:** Wed Feb 22, 2006 3:45 pm **Posts:** 79

Thanks for the info-condensation both for oil and water. I was but didn't use ss wool to condense in my homemade ccv. All I ever got was liquid oil - no goo. But too much was getting to the turbo. I have a warranty and an extended warranty and based on the latest TSB, I am going to wait for jeep to fix this or my vehicle later if they don't(or oldnvay ccv). My home made replacement for the air box inlet tube is keeping my airfilter clean and the box spotless and of course the drain holes clear. I have gone through several air filters before this and did not rotate them as suggested somewhere until the whole surface area was coated in grease.

retmil46 · **Posted:** Wed Mar 29, 2006 1:39 am

tired_old_dave wrote:

Thanks for the info-condensation both for oil and water. I was but didn't use ss wool to condense in my homemade ccv. All I ever got was liquid oil - no goo. But too much was getting to the turbo. I have a warranty and an extended warranty and based on the latest TSB, I am going to wait for jeep to fix this or my vehicle later if they don't(or oldnvay ccv). My home made replacement for the air box inlet tube is keeping my airfilter clean and the box spotless and of course the drain holes clear. I have gone through several air filters before this and did not rotate them as suggested somewhere until the whole surface area was coated in grease.

Hmmm, air box inlet tube? Have you already described this someplace that you can point me to?

RFCRD · **Posted:** Wed Mar 29, 2006 9:03 am

I got my Jeep back together late last night, hoses cleaned and fresh air filter. Just an observation, my airbox had a substantial build-up of road salt residue (inside on the bottom). Old filter looked grey but not too bad. What is the chance the air filter was full of salt, gets a little damp and partially plugs??? My oil consumption was non-existent (1/8 in off "full" mark for 4500 miles) until @ 2 weeks ago when is got warmer and wetter. I have a 100 mile/day commute at high speed that I split between the Jeep and an '04 Impala. Ran the Jeep in rain several days last week before noticing the the quick drop in oil level (@ 1/2 quart) and the oil in the hoses. I will run the Jeep hard for the next few day and see I get fresh contamination in the hoses.

tired_old_dave · **Joined:** Wed Feb 22, 2006 3:45 pm **Posts:** 79

retmil46, I may have posted it at e-----. Taking the intermediate inlet tube off exposes the hole in the airbox to suck straight from the back of the radiator fan. What started this for me was how fast my air filters were greasing up in the city. The parts manager at grubbs showed me the convulted air flow by sticking his fingers through the four sided piece at the radiator brace. I think you posted-hey guys look where the air comes in from, pine needles etc. I bought a 3" plastic drain male adapter and a 3"to 4" rubber drain pipe coupling. I inserted the 3" adapter from inside the airbox out, with the threads exposed outide the airbox. I removed the 4" ss hose clamp and put the 3" side over the threads and tightened the 3" ss hose clamp. Make sure the 3" side is snug against the box and the plastic ftg is snug on the inside and everything is then secure. The 4" side encircles the 4 sided ftg at the radiator brace and also away from the body thus diffusing the turbo draw and weakening the effect of drawing all the air thru the small space at the radiator grill (and road crap). Cheap cold air said the parts manager. It runs better, the filter is staying clean, the airbox is staying clean, especially the two drain holes in the bottom of the box above the ps hose. The rubber coupling does lay on the washer fluid tube but isn't rubber softer than plastic.

RBorgers · **Posted:** Wed Mar 29, 2006 10:08 pm

You got pictures?

tired_old_dave · **Joined:** Wed Feb 22, 2006 3:45 pm **Posts:** 79

If you mean my cheap air box. No. But these are common plumbing parts. I also am now using a cheap purolator air filter from O'reillys - micro something-$8. The dealer can be kind to a customer for parts, pep boys had the better purolators with a 25% discount recently. The cheap filter is still a micro filter but the paper seems half the thickness better air flow and since I was changing mine so often I wasn't worried. I think the better the filter the more air restriction. But as has been said by oldnavy, retmil46, and others, before air intake you have to open up the exhaust. I went with the aero-turbine and got a proper install that removed the necked down tubing. Without out a proper ccv or a provent install what am I really accomplishing but coating a lot of clean air with oil and sending it to the intake.

oldnavy · **Posted:** Thu Mar 30, 2006 12:32 pm

tired_old_dave wrote:

Without out a proper ccv or a provent install what am I really accomplishing but coating a lot of clean air with oil and sending it to the intake.

Ain't that the truth dude. :lol:

retmil46 · **Posted:** Fri Mar 31, 2006 1:08 am

I mentioned this a few months back in another thread, but for any that may have missed it, there's a little trick you can use to make changing the air filter less of a PITA.

The A/C line that runs over the air filter housing and across the fan shroud is held in place by two zip ties attached to christmas tree fasteners in the fan shroud. Cut these two zip ties, and the A/C line will lift up out of the way. When done, position the A/C line back in place on the tree fasteners, and install two new zip ties.

Makes getting that air filter housing off and back on an order of magnitude easier.

Stan Wright · **Posted:** Fri Mar 31, 2006 1:14 am

I did the 'tired_old_dave' airbox mod tonight. Very easy to do. There are pictures at the link below:

http://liberty.eurekaboy.com/airboxmod.htm

retmil46 · **Posted:** Fri Mar 31, 2006 1:16 am

I wonder how the people running K & N filters would feel if they could have seen all the freakin' crud that was sucked up by the stock air intake and deposited on my filter after only 8000 miles?

Guest · **Posted:** Fri Mar 31, 2006 8:22 am

Stan Wright wrote:

I did the 'tired_old_dave' airbox mod tonight. Very easy to do. There are pictures at the link below:

http://liberty.eurekaboy.com/airboxmod.htm

That's really cool! I used to look at your website before as well, you had pictures of different colors of Liberties that helped me choose colors. You also had/have an old CJ and all kinds of stuff/projects going on. I did not recognize you until I saw the actual link you provided above! I live just outside of Mooresville! Nice to see you got a CRD! Send me a PM and maybe we can trade notes/help each other out with this CRD stuff!

tired_old_dave · **Joined:** Wed Feb 22, 2006 3:45 pm **Posts:** 79

Thanks for the pictures Stan Wright. While not using the parts that I described, you at least showed everybody how the crd breathes. My parts required no cutting but the whole at the eairbox inlet is reduced by ~ 1/8 of an inch. The cheap air cleaner improvement was confirmed by the better half's seat of the skirt drive. Then my airbox fix and again confirmed by the better half. How is yours running?

Stan Wright · **Posted:** Fri Mar 31, 2006 10:51 pm

I haven't driven it since I did the mod last night. I had 60 tons of stone delivered today for my garage so I spent the day shoveling stone.

RFCRD · **Posted:** Sat Apr 01, 2006 10:14 am

Update on mine:

Watch you air filter

I ran it hard for 500 miles (incl OD off/high RPM passing) since cleaning the hoses and replacing the air filter. The oil from the turbo has stopped. CAC hose from turbo to the air cooler is clean with the exception of a couple of very fine oil streaks, nothing I would be concerned about. Output side of the cooler is another matter. I expect to clean this hose again as oil is drafted out of the cooler over time.

I used a cheap Purolator air filter ($9 @ Advance). I get repeated lectures from my brother-in-law about not using a K&N filter. Have been looking at the positive side of his comments. He has gone from "What were you smoking when you bought that Jeep/Chrysler, you should have got a Silverado" to "I can't believe you run that without a K&N."

I would get a K&N but concerned about the dirt that gets past filter with the extra air flow. Might help if it keeps the motor oil out of the CAC. What is the lesser of the evils? Any thoughts???

oldnavy · **Posted:** Sat Apr 01, 2006 10:55 am

RFCRD wrote:

Update on mine:

I would get a K&N but concerned about the dirt that gets past filter with the extra air flow. Might help if it keeps the motor oil out of the CAC. What is the lesser of the evils? Any thoughts???

The K&N would not in anyway keep oil out of the intercooler. Here is a link that I have posted on the forum before and it deals with aftermarket airfilters and how they compare to OEM filter. This test is done on a GM Durmax diesel and compares the OEM AC Delco with several major brands of after market paper filters and the K&N filter. If you understand the testing and data then you would never buy some of the filters and would run screaming from a K&N filter.

On the VW TDI (diesel) forum they dyno tested K&N filters Vs OEM filters and found that they gave no real measurable increase in HP or TQ, and when oil sample were done on the K&N equipped engines they were paniced by the increase in silica (dirt) in the oil. It increased to about 10 times the normal or exceptle range. So just be aware and make an imformed choice.

BlackLibertyCRD · **Posted:** Sat Apr 01, 2006 3:19 pm

RFCRD wrote:

Update on mine:

Watch you air filter

I ran it hard for 500 miles (incl OD off/high RPM passing) since cleaning the hoses and replacing the air filter. The oil from the turbo has stopped. CAC hose from turbo to the air cooler is clean with the exception of a couple of very fine oil streaks, nothing I would be concerned about. Output side of the cooler is another matter. I expect to clean this hose again as oil is drafted out of the cooler over time.

I used a cheap Purolator air filter ($9 @ Advance). I get repeated lectures from my brother-in-law about not using a K&N filter. Have been looking at the positive side of his comments. He has gone from "What were you smoking when you bought that Jeep/Chrysler, you should have got a Silverado" to "I can't believe you run that without a K&N."

I would get a K&N but concerned about the dirt that gets past filter with the extra air flow. Might help if it keeps the motor oil out of the CAC. What is the lesser of the evils? Any thoughts???

Green Air Filter USA website claims filtering down to 5 microns. I don't see anything wrong with that. This air filter will go much longer than oem before it needs cleaning. I agree that a clogged air filter can be very damaging.

http://www.greenfilterusa.com/vehicle.a ... ke=Liberty

ouch! oil in the intake

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