loss of power...

thompsonCRD · **Posted:** Thu Sep 15, 2011 9:09 pm

driving home on the highway after work, pulled into the passing lane to overtake a semi, but when i pushed the petal down it did almost nothing - did not even seem to downshift as it normally would, rpm's climbed just slightly and did still accelerate (slowly). even popping out of OD did very little as far as power
driving in town at 30-40 KMPH is no noticable problem (to me) until i stomp on it and it does basically nothing.
transmission is shifting fine and smooth.
have not added new fuel in 10 days
does it sound like turbo CAC hose failure? or could it be the turbo itself?
any suggestions welcome

Ajamant · **Posted:** Thu Sep 15, 2011 9:24 pm

When is the last time you changed your fuel filter? Doubtful it's your hoses or you would of thrown a cell. Fuel filter should technically be changed every 25k.

Read Sams Noob guide, it will answer a lot of questions and get you up to speed on necessary fixes for our CRD's.

boilermaker2 · **Posted:** Thu Sep 15, 2011 10:14 pm

Sounds like you either blew your hose leading from the turbo or blew it off of either the turbo or intercooler. If you blow it off, it should be accompanied by a small boom. :SOMBRERO:

If the hose just blow a hole like a slit in the side of the hose, you may just lose power. In my case, you could here the air escaping. To confirm, when I go home, a family member ran the RPM's up to about 1,800 at idle so that I could find where the air was coming out.

If that was not the problem, it is likely a clogged fuel filter which is probably the cheapest fix.

Good luck,
Boilermaker2

thompsonCRD · **Posted:** Fri Sep 16, 2011 5:59 am

Ajamant wrote:

When is the last time you changed your fuel filter? Doubtful it's your hoses or you would of thrown a cell. .

i am currently running the ORM, so the CEL is on anyway, maybe I should plug it back in and see if it stays on.

i'll get my wife to run up the rpm while i check the hoses tonight.

thanks.

thompsonCRD · **Posted:** Fri Sep 16, 2011 10:46 am

haven't had a chance to check the hoses yet, any harm or danger in driving it a bit if it is a cracked CAC hose (wife may need to take it somewhere)?

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Fri Sep 16, 2011 7:06 pm

with a blown hose it will have no power -
like an underpowered 4 cylinder it'll have problems keeping up with traffic

(you'll have some turbulence back streaming that will pull in unfiltered air - but unless you're in a dust storm - shouldn't be a big issue)

on the other hand - if it's an air-in-fuel limp mode - it may drive fine.

thompsonCRD · **Posted:** Fri Sep 16, 2011 8:31 pm

was taking a look at the fuel filter (without removing) and it has "MOPAR COPYRIGHT 2001 - 2007" on the side of it, does this suggest that the filter hasn't been changed in 4 or 5 years you think?
regardless, i bought everything i need to change out the fuel filter, hopefully get to it tomorrow and see if it helps.
also called boostcontrol.com and bought a set of samco hoses, the existing ones do feel pretty soft

Ajamant · **Posted:** Fri Sep 16, 2011 10:27 pm

Good call on the samcos. Don't be shy when you are tightening the hose clamps and check for oil leaks coming from ends of the hoses if it's not on just right. Also the passenger side hose comes very close to the airbox sensor and is your biggest danger of wearing threw at that point.

I highly doubt the filter hasn't been changed in 4-5 years. I went 70k on my first (really stupid). I ran biodiesel (b5-b20) the entire time and I think that's the only reason I made it that far. How many miles are on the CRD, and how many since you owned?

If you don't own a code reader then you need to get one with the ORM. Check it often as MANY cells can pop up that you don't know about. I had a glow plug failure that I didn't spot when I was rocking ORM. Better yet instead of buying a 200$ code reader, just get the GDE eco tune and it eliminates the cell along with more power and better mpg.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sat Sep 17, 2011 8:40 am

Samcos are great hoses but they lack the witness marks on both ends that the OEM hoses have. No big deal as general installation orientation is obvious. However, once you get them on and before you tighten the hose clamps carefully inspect the routing of each hose for adequate clearance on other engine compartment components. With a little twicking you can get good clearance although I did have to take a file to the fins on some sort of gray plastic connector on the driver's side.

Several other items - 1) the hose clamp on the turbo end can easily be reached with a long screwdriver if you have one, otherwise buy one like I should have done years ago; 2) while you have the passenger side hose off carefully inspect the airbox to turbo hose for failure down when the turbo end hose clamp and CCV T is located as the air hose tends to tear there due to excess oil (replacement is OEM only but it's only like $55 but is unlikely to be in stock so allow for delivery time if this replacement is needed); 3) the intercooler hose connections are plastic so be sure the hose and clamp are fully seated on those connections and don't godzilla the clamps (don't ask but I know about hose clamps and plastic) just run them down snuge with a bit of an extra twick and then check tightness again after ca. 50 miles of driving and you should be good to go.

Topan · **Posted:** Sun Sep 18, 2011 6:48 am

hi there,
i got the same problem a few weeks ago , only difference with you is that i had the P0299 error code: Boost pressure Loss.

at the end it was a vaccum hose going from the solenoid the the main vaccum network. It had melt and was perforated.
Here is a good thread : viewtopic.php?f=5&t=61240

i could not see the pics i placed , let me know you also cant see them. My links maybe be lost.

In your case i would check the solenoid, bypass it and see if the power comes back.

Good luck !!

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sun Sep 18, 2011 10:15 am

The pictures are still there. For some reason, not yet fixed, pictures won't display in IE 9 although I've had some luck right clicking on where the picture should be and opening the link. Best solution is to use another browser like Firefox, what I use, or maybe Chrome.

thompsonCRD · **Posted:** Sun Sep 18, 2011 1:38 pm

Replaced the fuel filter but it did not improve the situation.

Thanks Topan, that really does sound EXACTLY like my problem.

I know this might sound lame, but does anyone have a photo of the CRD engine bay that they could point out where the solenoid, EGR, and glow plugs are for me?

thompsonCRD · **Posted:** Tue Sep 20, 2011 1:59 pm

problem solved....

plugged the MAF sensor back in and drove around for 15min but the CEL didn't go off.
took it to a garage down the road and had the codes read.
there was a P1189 code.
went home and searched LOST and found this thread: www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopi ... 41&start=0
checked the air sensor on SIDE of airbox, it was not seated tight and wouldn't clip in so I taped it up with electrical tape
back to full boost now

THANKS LOST!

so i ordered a set of samco's without really needing to, oh well, can't hurt

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Tue Sep 20, 2011 9:42 pm

FYI - when you get the GDE Eco tune - it'll turn that sensor off.....

Topan · **Posted:** Wed Sep 21, 2011 2:19 am

well done ! interesting to know another source of power loss.

as for the CAC hoses, don't worry , you will need them soon... :wink:

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