How much oil?

Hoosier CRD · **Posted:** Tue Sep 20, 2011 7:55 am

I've read in a few posts that the general consensus is the "Max" oil level mark on the dipstick is too high. This results in the excess oil being blown out of the CCV and ultimately into the fresh air duct.

How much oil then is the proper amount? I'm soon to change the oil for the first time in my newly purchased CRD and I want to get it right the first time. My thought is to fill with six (6) quarts total, which is about .4 quarts below spec. capacity. I'm using a Mann oil filter P/N ML 1022.

Thanks for your insight to enlighten this Noob!

Hoosier CRD

papaindigo · **Posted:** Tue Sep 20, 2011 9:30 am

My notes, compiled for other forum comments, WIX 51516 with 6.3 qts for the fill or Wix 51515 with 7 qts for the fill. The WIX 51516 is the equivalent of the stock Mopar filter in size. Don't know how your Mann filter size compares

Ajamant · **Posted:** Tue Sep 20, 2011 11:35 am

I know there has been much debate regarding the proper dip stick fill level. I know she takes 6.4 or in that ball park....... However I'm curious if all the oil drains out during a change. I only put 6 in and drive for a day or two and recheck and I've had no problems.

Hoosier look into a fumoto valve ASAP and save yourself the headache of a stripped drain plug. All it takes is 1 idiot with an impact wrench to destroy that drain plug.

cerich · **Posted:** Tue Sep 20, 2011 12:11 pm

as i posted 6 years ago...lol

if I fill mine to 7 qts which is below the full line the crd will burn thru half a quart in a couple days, if i fill to full mark on dipstick(I don't and haven't since new)it takes 8 qts approx and within a few days will burn thru to just a hair over the min mark... Once at the min mark she will stay there for 5000 miles ( i used to do 5k when it was free at the dealer but now doing at 7500 miles)

If I fill her with 6.5 qts it go to the same spot she used to burn down to and just never moves... funny that

Hoosier CRD · **Posted:** Tue Sep 20, 2011 5:31 pm

Hey Guys,

Thanks for the responses so far; feel free to chime in still.

I'll probably go with the 6.4 quarts to start out and see what happens. FWIW, I'll be using Euro spec Amsoil 5W-40.

Ajamant, thanks for the suggestion. I have to be honest, I'm not sold on the Fumoto valve. There seems to me that some amount is going to protrude into the oil pan thus leaving some amount of the old oil in the bottom of the pan therefore not a complete drain.

Papaindigo, I chose the Mann because it is an excellent (and European) filter, close to the same size as the Mopar unit that's on there now and at a great price through my local parts house. I'm sure that the Wix filters are good. I surmise that they would use a Mann in european countries where the VM engines are more common, for whatever all of that is worth!

More honesty, I have worked as a service technician professionally. So, I'll be doing the oil changes myself. Unless there are problems with the drain plug and threads currently, I don't anticipate any in the future. I started working on cars because I rarely trust others to do the job correctly. Yes, one idiot with an air gun on my drain plug would certainly ruin my day and theirs too!

Thanks again for all of the insight; hope to see more!

Hoosier CRD

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Tue Sep 20, 2011 9:40 pm

Hoosier - we've had a lot of stripped threads on oil pans -

the standard scenario is that the copper washer drops off - the person tightens the oil plug - and strips out a thread or two from the end - the next oil change the whole thing pulls out
there are really only about 3 or 4 threads total to engage the oil plug.
make sure you have extra copper washers in case they get lost.

Hoosier CRD · **Posted:** Wed Sep 21, 2011 5:47 am

ATXKJ wrote:

Hoosier - we've had a lot of stripped threads on oil pans -

the standard scenario is that the copper washer drops off - the person tightens the oil plug - and strips out a thread or two from the end - the next oil change the whole thing pulls out
there are really only about 3 or 4 threads total to engage the oil plug.
make sure you have extra copper washers in case they get lost.

Now I see the situation much more clearly! Thank you, ATXKJ for your additional insight.

Yes, I agree that washers, copper and otherwise are vital for oil plugs on aluminum pans. Now, I'm a little concerned about pulling that plug for the first time. I guess it'll be a leap of faith. Prior to my buying it, for whatever it's worth, the last oil change was at the dealership where this CRD was purchased new. I would hope that they would follow proper procedures for drain plugs,etc.

Thanks again for your insight.

Hoosier CRD

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Wed Sep 21, 2011 12:43 pm

Hoosier.

What was not mentioned is the section of the drain plug where the copper washer resides is tapered larger to center the washer :jester:

So if/when the copper washer is left off that tapered section distorts the last thread or two when it's inserted :furious:

onthehunt · **Posted:** Wed Sep 21, 2011 1:30 pm

On these engines I would rather be overfull than below the add line... 6.5 qts= somewhere between full and add depending on how long it sat before I checked it.

Hoosier CRD · **Posted:** Wed Sep 21, 2011 8:36 pm

Joe Romas wrote:

Hoosier.

What was not mentioned is the section of the drain plug where the copper washer resides is tapered larger to center the washer :jester:

So if/when the copper washer is left off that tapered section distorts the last thread or two when it's inserted :furious:

Okay, I've had a chance to get a close-up look at the drain plug.

With the drain plug in place and tightened in it's bung, (can't think of a better name for it) can you see any bit of the infamous copper washer? If so, then I'm not seeing any. :furious:

I see the hex of the plug flush with the flat area of the bung. My hope is that the washer is housed in a relief cut into the bung area. Please tell me I'm on the right track.

Hoosier CRD

dirtmover · **Posted:** Thu Sep 22, 2011 8:01 am

No relief, both surfaces are flat. Your description sounds suspect however. The mating surface of the plug should be round, not hex and you use an Allen key to remove the plug.

This is exactly the sort of thing I hate about this vehicle. You shouldn't have to sweat it over something as simple and routine as an oil change :shock:

.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Thu Sep 22, 2011 10:31 am

I don't think my drain plug has ever had the washer.
What I do is when I remove the drain plug I clean it
really good and apply Teflon paste to the threads.
Then I carefully thread the plug back in place and do
not overtighten.
No drips and no stripped threads.

onthehunt · **Posted:** Thu Sep 22, 2011 1:38 pm

They switched the design of the plug between 2006-2007? It came with an 8mm allen plug but then switched to a normal hex-head plug later.

Ajamant · **Posted:** Thu Sep 22, 2011 11:04 pm

Trust me I wasn't sold on the fumoto valve either, until my drain plug was near death and the thought of tapping my pan pushed me over the edge.

I do all my oil changes as well but dropped it off at stealership in the winter time ( I have no garage ) in a time crunch and that's all it took. Havn't regretted the fumoto valve for a second. Now I can change the oil with "No tools required"...... its niiiiiiiiice

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Fri Sep 23, 2011 8:52 am

"I don't think my drain plug has ever had the washer."
flash
Sounds like your drain plug has already been replaced. IF you had the original drain plug inserting it without a washer would Definitely destroy the very first thread or two the first time it was inserted.
NO DOUBT ABOUT IT :dead:

"They switched the design of the plug between 2006-2007?"
On the hunt
Maybe so but being there were no Liberty CRD's sold in the US past model year 06 all US ones originally required a hex key to remove them.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Fri Sep 23, 2011 3:12 pm

Joe,
I wouldn't know a new drain plug from an old one.
My oil drain plug requires a Allen wrench for removal and
installation. I don't know if the first two threads are stripped
out but it still seals.

Greasey Bob · **Joined:** Tue Dec 14, 2010 3:34 am **Posts:** 228

Mine is a really large like 7/8inch hex bolt. I have an 06.

Where do you get new copper washers from?

I never actually check my oil I just change it every 5 or 6k miles. I tried to check it but never got the same thing twice way back at the begining now I do not even bother. Of couse 5 or 6k miles is 5 to 7 weeks for me. So far we are at 29k miles for the last year. And driving has gone up since June.

Everything has risk.

Hoosier CRD · **Posted:** Fri Sep 23, 2011 5:10 pm

Greasy Bob wrote: "Where do you get new copper washers from?"

The dealer is where I found mine. According to the '05 Parts Fiche, it is P/N 04720353 to go along with drain plug P/N 04720352. I think that the plug has been superceded but I can't be certain of that. FWIW

Hoosier CRD

CATCRD · **Posted:** Fri Sep 23, 2011 5:19 pm

I love the Fumoto, and the oil pan is so thick that it doesn't protrude much into it and hold that much oil from draining. If you're paranoid about it you can notch the threaded end with a hacksaw to allow all the oil to get out.

Hoosier CRD · **Posted:** Fri Sep 23, 2011 6:14 pm

Okay, you guys have talked me into checking further into the Fumoto valve. I especially like the idea of notching the upper edge to get full drainage.

Thanks, guys!

Hoosier CRD

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