I feel sick for you Ben... You most certainly have a killed turbo, the question now is how badly did it go.
I don't disagree in general about replacing the tube / banjo / washers, but at the same time... If they aren't plugged up, I'm not convinced that they are bad. You might be able to source a turbo direct from Garrett by finding your local Diesel Injection Service shop, who hopefully is an ADS (I think it means Association of Diesel Service) member. Many of these places are also turbo shops, but they tend not to be the remove-and-replace kind of shop. You bring them the component, they fix. But in the case of these turbos, there isn't any fix, its either replace with new... Or replace with new.
The advantage to contacting one of those shops is a retail price of $1080 or so, saving you some bucks.
Pulling the turbo... Ooh, bad memories.
Ok, here's what I can remember. You will need a 10mm wrench / socket, 1/2" or 13mm (or both) socket AND wrench, and probably a longer wrench and mallet to break the nuts loose on the turbo. Got the blue nitrile gloves? Good, you will need a box of them, plan to shred at least 3-4 pairs in this job, its a real bugger.
Start by pulling the airbox connectors (be gentle!) and the airbox out of the engine. The airbox-to-turbo hose is probably rotted at the turbo end if you haven't done an EHM - $55 dealer only part, and it will need to be ordered. Don't ever reconnect that CCV, or you will be buying that hose again.
Pull the turbo-to-intercooler hose, check it all over to see if it is soft or eaten through. Unbolt the coolant tank from the firewall, on mine there was enough room to push it out of the way without disconnecting anything from it, or draining any coolant. Don't mess with something if you don't have to, right?
Now comes the fun - The heat shield has 3 bolts. These will be the easiest of the day. 13mm / 1/2 inch. The exhaust clamp on the turbo is 10mm, you will need to unlock it a lot before it will slide over the turbo's flange... And usually right down the downpipe to the cat. oops. Push the downpipe out of the way, and climb on top of the engine. Get comfy (not really) you will be here for a while.
The two bolts to the rear of the engine are fairly easy to get to, 1/2 inch. This is where the longer wrench will come in handy - You won't have enough space OR the right angle to use a breaking lever. Put the wrench any way you can get it to fit with the handle end close to horizontal or pointing up and toward the firewall. Use the longer wrench and hit it with the mallet to break them free - It will take a lot.The heat cycling on those is immense.
The next thing you need to pull will be the oil return line - This is the part that sucks. I think it is another 10mm bolt, but there are TWO of the damnn things under there, and crazy hard to get to. Conveniently, everything under there will be juicy with fresh oil, so forget about finger traction when they are finally loosened.The inner one (toward the engine) is behind the non-flexible pipe. Convenient, hmm? The bottom of this pipe just shoves into a rubber grommet in the side of the engine - Nothing holds it there. Such a great design.
Might as well pull the banjo bolt from the top too, there is a copper washer above and below the center section. Don't forget that when reinstalling it, it will be messy. Don't ask how I know that.
Now the real fun. The other two bolts are BURIED in between the two sections of the turbo housing. This is where the socket comes in, you can't reach the upper one without it. Use the bigger wrench on the socket wrench handle to make a breaking bar to pop these two.
Congratulations, the turbo is loose. Pull it out, marvel at what a pain in the arse this job is... And plan on how drunk you will get after putting the new one back in by reversing the process.
Now... Restarting your engine. I let mine idle for 20 minutes after the first time I lost a turbo, and I had had a small ticking noise at that point that went away. 10 miles later on the test drive, my engine went away too. So if it makes any noises that you haven't heard before after you have filled it back up completely... SHUT IT OFF AND DO NOT DRIVE IT. What may be damaged - The crank bearings on the bottoms of the rods, particularly the #1 and #2 cylinders. Depending on how low on oil it got, you may be fine... You might not. But rebuilding the bottom end of the engine is going to be cheaper than replacing the entire engine.
Why does this happen to us? Bad design choices by Chrysler, possibly bad oil or not changed often enough by the owner, possibly bad treatment by owners in shutting it down hot, and frankly... A turbo that is not up to the task of our vehicle, it needs to be larger / stronger. I'm not saying anything specific about you as an owner, b/c I ***KNOW*** how to treat these turbos to keep them safe... And I've had one fall apart on me (bearing failure) since I replaced the engine, and a second has had a problem since I bought it new, and is probably heading for destruction rapidly too. These just suck on our Jeeps.
_________________ Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you! Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most. Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs. Bad noises = REALLY bad things.
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