the front side looks a bit sagged - lower than it needs to be to run those tires if you can get some conduit nuts - not sure what they'ed be called there but they're a common part for plumbing and what not, stack 3 together and tape them (not necessary but makes it easier) and use them for a gauge of how high your clevis is, you can put them over the shock can in the front and raise the front 3/4 of an inch which will help a bit

the rear isolators that were mentioned earlier look like this: (there's 4 of them taped together just for clarification)

if you are crafty you could make your own out of a big trucks mudflap - may actually be cheaper to do that compared to finding and buying stock rear isolators there
3 layers of the heavy rubber mudflap cut into the same shape as the stock isolator and put on first then put the stock iso on so it's the one in contact with the spring itself should be about right
the mudflaps i'm talking about are the kind you see on big Moog or Oshkosh industrial trucks - the mudflap itself is probably 3 foot long by 2 foot wide and probably an inch thick - i understand the issue of parts availability - you just have to make do with what you have or what you can get
all things considered, with a little tweaking you'll be alright
hope that helps you out some
as pippobug mentioned, beating the pinch weld down will help greatly behind the front wheels - there's also some spots infront of the front tires that get rubbed too near the fog light access doors - or where they'ed usually be if yours doesn't have them - usually can tell where it is due to it being scuffed or really shiny from the tire buffing it
you can soften the plastic and push it farther forward with a heat gun, or if you don't have a heat gun you can try gently warming the head of a big hammer and use that - or just cut it out of the way but I typically try to keep as much plastic shielding on as possible, makes the clean up after getting dirty a bit easier
