72,000 miles, wife hears a buzzing sound comming from passenger side under hood. Im told the egr valve and fcV need replaced. If I spent the money on the gde eco tune instead could I avoid having to replace them or do they still have to function?
ORM last 20-30k
in tank lift pump
still on orig egr

Go with the GDE tune. It fixes the problem. It removed my CEL, got rid of the terrible noises it was making, and runs like a dream.

Got the email back from GD and if the egr is stuck open ill have to pull it and clean it but I think it is still partially functioning, just making noises. The mechanic said having the maf unplugged is what contributed to the failure. I told him I dont know anyone else who got 70k on original egr. So gde eco her I come (been trying to justify it for a year and a half). Does anyone know the price difference between the gde scan tool and sending ecm in for reflash?

Glancing at the GDE site the flash (mail ECU in and they mail it back) is $450 plus ca. $15 in postage to send the ECU to them. The flash tool is a separate item costing $300. If you have the flash tool you can download your current ECU tune, email them the tune, they will email back your new tune (still costs $450), and you can upload the new tune. Advantage of having tool is it reads ECU CEL codes and if a dealer ever reflashes your ECU you can upload the GDE tune without having to go back to GDE.

PS check around on the forum. The FCV can be left failed open or if failed closed you can remove the butterfly valve (don't drop the screws into the engine) and leave it alone. I recall but have not looked for a discussion on EGR removal and cleaning to restore function rather than replace.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

You said passenger side? FCV is on driver's side. Probably something buzzer on your vacuum canister on the passenger side. Has happened to a couple others here. I cannot remember exactly what is was on the unit.

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2006 Liberty CRD Limited

Provent @ 43,000 km
SEGR in progress
SAMCO Sport hoses @ 48500 km
Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac LT225/75R16

when I drove it you could here it after a drive but would stop after idling a few seconds. Got it to stay on long enough to get out and to the front of jeep and there was some buzzing from the vacuum canister which quit after I pinched various hoses. I will listen to it again when she gets home-she drove it to salt lake city. Obviously shes not afraid of it breaking. I borrowed a OBII from someone at work and the only codes I got was a fuel system leak and one for the maf being unplugged but the mechanic (friends auto shop) got the egr code. however I didnt think to plug in the maf before plugging in OBII.

Might want to consider bypassing the vacuum reservoir solenoid to see if the problem goes away. If it does replace the solenoid.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs