Torque value for 3 Water Manifold/Water Pump bolts

Kursk · **Joined:** Wed Nov 02, 2011 11:53 pm **Posts:** 8

Doing my first Timing Belt replacement on my 2006 Jeep Liberty Limited CRD 2.8L with 140,000+ miles. Into the second day. Went to install new water pump but unable to find torque values for 3 bolts holding Water Manifold (housing that lower radiator hose attaches to and that does not come with new water pump) to water pump. Also, old gasket doesn't appear to have had any sealant applied. Should I use sealant on reassembly?

jeepdan · **Posted:** Thu Nov 03, 2011 9:03 am

I always try to use a torque wrench for the peace of mind, but I don't think that one could get a torque wrench in there to use if you wanted to. Using a 1/4" drive ratchet and or a small combination wrench on the three bolts will work well without danger of over tightening. The new gasket supplied with the pump are high quality and shouldn't need additional sealant.

Kursk · **Joined:** Wed Nov 02, 2011 11:53 pm **Posts:** 8

Thanks. That's what I ended up doing earlier today. Did not apply sealant. I installed the water pump without the housing and checked the post. No reply so I went ahead and installed the housing. I used an 8mm wrench on two of the bolts and had to use a socket wrench with a LONG extension to get the bottom bolt. I guessed the tightness on the three and hopefully didn't overtighten the one with the socket wrench. I finally got to the Timing belt today. That was fun. After trying all of the "suggestions" I ended up removing the tensioner and then applying the belt. Once it was in place and all was lined up I installed the tensioner. Worked for me but it got late and dark and I had to stop. Tomorrow I'll remove the camshaft locks and do the rotate the engine two times deal. I think from there it should be a piece of cake (except for the fan shroud and fan). Thanks again for your help.

BTW - I didn't have a reverseable torque wrench to do the pullies. I had one that would do 21.5 ft/lbs in reverse but not the required 33 ft/lbs. I used the 21.5 and then guessed the 33 using a long pry bar. I think that should work...

And a suggestion for anyone else attempting this feat ---- remove the skid plate before you begin working. I dropped three or four sockets, two important bolts and a pair of pliers. Had to drop the plate to retrieve. LMAO

Oh, I had to order a thermostat gasket since the old one broke apart while removing. I'm not going to use sealant on that either since it didn't appear to have any on the old one.

jeepdan · **Posted:** Fri Nov 04, 2011 5:23 am

Before attempting to install the fan and shroud together, place a piece of flexible card board against the radiator ( pizza box lid works well). This will protect the radiator while fumbling to get things in place. Once the fan is threaded on remove it before putting shroud in it's final position. I also use a heaver piece against the radiator while doing the other stuff. I accidentally dented the radiator while trying to remove the damper pulley on my first timing belt job. :roll:

papaindigo · **Posted:** Fri Nov 04, 2011 9:34 am

No flaming please but at the timing belt south party this past weekend we considered the Aussie shroud mode (cut the top of the shroud and reinstal with clips and screws to the lower part of the shroud so the top can be removed for future access) but instead elected to cut the shroud just below the 2 flanges where it bolts to the radiator/intercooler, I forget which, and reinstalled only the upper 1/2 of the shroud. That retains most of the shroud's benefit as the lower portions are rather narrow but not narrow enough to clear the fan and radiator.

It might be possible to trim the lower portion of the shroud to provide enough clearance particularly if one deletes the removable flap at the bottom. I'll have to take some measurements and look at that when I install kap's fixed fan mode.

Torque value for 3 Water Manifold/Water Pump bolts

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