What happened here?? (pictures)

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Fri Nov 04, 2011 5:49 pm

Siardi wrote:

I made some calls today and found a yard with a 2004 with grey leather seats, they would not tell me the price until they knew exactly what parts I needed, went all the way there (about 50 miles one way) to find out the dude wanted $250.00 per seat :furious:

, not to mention they were sitting on a liberty with no doors outside for God knows how long, they were mold infested and the metal underneath was all rusted, I asked the guy to work on the price, he said " they will clean up really nice" (my as$... mold and rust is not something you can clean), turn around and walked away.

On the good side, I learned that the 2004 seats will work and that all I need is the diaphragm that goes under the seat, I can retrofit that and then go to the stealer to calibrate.

Now I'm looking for a cheap passenger seat for a 04, 05 or 06 (I guess they all fit).

Thank you Sir Sam. I'll keep posting my progress on this ordeal...

Ya I guess 04 seats still have the diaphragm so all you need to do is install your occupant sensor into it. (the 04 has the diaphragm but is of a different aesthetic style so it doesn't show on an interchange which slipped my mind yesterday).

I had forgotten about what retmil posted about install the diaphragm into an older seat, in that case just get the cheapest 04-07 passenger seat you can find, and install the diaphragm into your existing passenger seat as retmil showed, then connect up your existing occupant sensor.

Siardi · **Posted:** Fri Nov 04, 2011 7:17 pm

ATXKJ wrote:

RetMil disassembled some seats and installed the 05 sensor on earlier seats.

here http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?p=691316#p691316
- of course he had the old/new side by side to disassemble, reassemble

maybe you could find a cheap junkyard passenger seat to disassemble - just for the sensor.

Yes Sr. !!!! Thank you for that link. great find !!
After carefully examining the 2004 seat on that junk yard today and my 2002 I thought it was possible.... your link confirms my thoughts..... :BANANA:

Next week I'll hunt for a 2004- 2007 cheap passenger seat to do the swap.

@ Sir Sam: On that link to the other post from Retmil you mention that each sensor is paired to each car. Does that mean that after the swap I still have to go to the dealer for the re-calibration?

Thank you both !!!!!

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Fri Nov 04, 2011 8:05 pm

Siardi wrote:

@ Sir Sam: On that link to the other post from Retmil you mention that each sensor is paired to each car. Does that mean that after the swap I still have to go to the dealer for the re-calibration?

Thank you both !!!!!

No need to return to the dealer, you still have your occupant sensor, thats whats bundled up under your passenger seat and says "occupant sensor" it will need to be screwed into the correct place on an 04+ seat, and there is a tube to attach to the diaphragm, but that sensor is coded to your BCM, so once its connected to a diaphragm in a seat all will work correctly again.

In any case its funny how you started this thread with one question and found a whole different problem, and have learned a bunch and have found a whole new solution to your whole new problem.

tregrrr · **Joined:** Mon Oct 10, 2011 2:37 pm **Posts:** 59

I am going to chime in on the original "wassat??" and put a vote in for inverter.

I do marine systems and one of the things I see (and rip out) is P1ss poorly installed inverters (quite often installed by "pros"). Too many people think 12v is as safe as playing with lego provided you keep the red from touching the black, and use whatever little wire laying around to supply them. A decent sized inverter 1+Kw wired with something small like 8 ga. wire would definitely be able to generate some significant heat in normal use. Compromise the insulation on the hot side, and without a fuse or breaker at the source, that "thick" wire will generate and store an entire battery of pure venom spitting heat before it melts itself enough to break the connection.

Look around in the engine bay, through the firewall piercing, and around under the dash for more melted bits along the most likely wire runs. You may have melts that are problems waiting to happen such as 90% compromised insulation on other wires that the hot one was sitting on/next to. If its just the console that melted you will be VERY fortunate.

Siardi · **Posted:** Sat Nov 05, 2011 9:20 am

Sir Sam wrote:

In any case its funny how you started this thread with one question and found a whole different problem, and have learned a bunch and have found a whole new solution to your whole new problem.

I know, was thinking of that myself.... What a great forum !!!!!

tregrrr wrote:

Look around in the engine bay, through the firewall piercing, and around under the dash for more melted bits along the most likely wire runs. You may have melts that are problems waiting to happen such as 90% compromised insulation on other wires that the hot one was sitting on/next to. If its just the console that melted you will be VERY fortunate.

Good thinking.... I did look all under the steering wheel, dashboard and found some melted insulation (not wire insulation, just the noise reducing stuff), nothing major, but did not think of going on the other side of the firewall into the engine, I cannot pinpoint where exactly the wire was coming from, I think the fuse box on the side of the driver, but not sure....

Siardi · **Posted:** Sat Nov 05, 2011 9:26 am

Sir Sam wrote:

No need to return to the dealer, you still have your occupant sensor, thats whats bundled up under your passenger seat and says "occupant sensor" it will need to be screwed into the correct place on an 04+ seat, and there is a tube to attach to the diaphragm, but that sensor is coded to your BCM, so once its connected to a diaphragm in a seat all will work correctly again.

OK, I got you...... yes, I still have the sensor dangling there, so, I'll use my sensor and remove the one that will come with the 05 seat, but, of course keep the diagram and the connecting tube.

Hopefully next weekend I can do this project, today and tomorrow I have to do the kitchen backsplash i promised my wife. Remember "happy wife = happy life" :jester:

I'll keep you all posted. And thank you again !!!!

tregrrr · **Joined:** Mon Oct 10, 2011 2:37 pm **Posts:** 59

Siardi wrote:

... I cannot pinpoint where exactly the wire was coming from, I think the fuse box on the side of the driver, but not sure....

My guess would be to two probable termination spots:

a) battery post

b) fuse box main fuse, unprotected side

I say this as the mentality by my twisted interpretation of the logic would be:
"dude I need lotsa power... dont want any silly fuses getting in the way!!!"

If you find it is to the fuse box, have a good look positive battery lead too, but also for sure look at your ground line. All that juice that caused the fire/heat had to complete the round trip to the battery and the ground wire is the only bottle neck left if it chassis shorted. Its possible the main batt gnd is fine, but it looks to me like a shed load of sustained current started that issue, and that could conceivably have compromised the insulation on the big cables some but not enough to scorch...

What happened here?? (pictures)

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