Failed emissions in Colorado

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Sat Oct 16, 2010 2:26 pm

ColoradoCRD wrote:

scooter,

I am also in the Denver metro emission testing area and all of my other vehicles have gone thru the process. For those not familiar, the Denver testing is enforced at vehicle registration renewal and specified intervals and is not required every year.

While the language in the emission testing program is rather vague pertaining to diesels, I read it to require testing. However, my 05 CRD has "emission exempt vehicle" sticker on the windshield that was there when I bought it new. I completed my 5th year vehicle registration renewal in March 2010 without a testing requirement. Thus, I appear to be completely out of the program.

Did you assume you had to pass testing, or did you get a testing notice with you registration renewal?

All new vehicles are emissions exempt, hence the sticker, but the first time the vehicle is sold (even if it is just a day old) it will need to be tested again.

ColoradoCRD · **Joined:** Sun Dec 10, 2006 9:25 am **Posts:** 60

All new vehicles are emissions exempt, hence the sticker, but the first time the vehicle is sold (even if it is just a day old) it will need to be tested again.[/quote]

I just rechecked the testing requirements. New vehicles are exempt for a four year period, then subject to testing every two years. Testing is also required when a vehicle is sold and the responsibility is with the seller.

My point is that my 05 CRD is registered in its 5th year since I purchased it new 2/05, and it emission testing was not ever required for registration, so I assume that my vehicle is exempt from the program altogether. I wonder what will be required when i sell it?

If my CRD is exempt from the program testing requirements, isn't everyone's?

CATCRD · **Posted:** Wed Oct 20, 2010 12:07 pm

Both of my CRDs had a 4 year exemption and now require the testing every 2 yrs.

scooter_scum · **Posted:** Wed Oct 20, 2010 1:29 pm

Ok, this is a long post. I find these forums to be part Technical help and part Therapy. Sorry I have not posted for a bit. Been very frustrated with myself. Soooo, last friday I did a few things to prepare for my next emission test. Picked up an new air filter $16, did a fast oil change $45 in synthetic oil and filter ( I had 8K on this oil change)and was preparing to drive the thing like I stole it to the next town and get an emissions test.

The oil change did not go well. Had a hard time getting the oil filter to seal up. Leaked on my drive way and tightened it up a bit more. Looked like it stopped leaking. So I jumped in the Jeep with a GPS to head off to Golden -- driving it like I stole it!! The goal was to heat up the exhaust and burn off any old fuel that might be in the exhaust system.

I made it a bout 1/2 a mile and the oil pressure light came on. I pondered if this was a previous problem or not (another long story), but decided to pull over and turn off the engine. Definitely one of my better decisions!!

Turns out in my hast, I did not notice the old oil filter had left it's rubber seal on the engine block. I put the second one right over it. When I revved the motor, it blew -- $40 of synthetic all over the engine and my neighborhood. CRAP!! So I ran my obese fat booty home to pick up 8 more quarts of diesel oil and change the oil on the side of the road. Not pretty. Since this was a hurried oil change, I was a bit scared to drive it all weekend till my family returned from a mid west college trip.

So I called another emission station - happens to have an diesel mechanic works there to fix things if necessary. So today I took it in for my second emissions test. For this test I went to the NAPA store and picked up some damned expensive GB244 diesel injector cleaner ($54). It treats 20-40 gallons. I poured it in and topped off the tank with 5 gallons. Then I proceeded to drive it like I stole it!. Keep the car in second gear and turned off OD for the occasional fast sections I did in third. My goal was to keep the RPMs up between 2.5-3.5K and heat up the exhaust + give the BG244 a chance to work.

Dropped it off for my second emissions test and gave them the long story. They were extra careful to make sure the ESP system was off and did the test on a 2 wheel dyno. No burning brake smell this time. Now the jeep passed with flying colors. My test came out at:

Opacity test
60 MPH 3%
45 MPH 3%
25 MPH 1%
idle 0%

So the total cost of the exercise was (itemized)
$55 First emissions test - Failed 64% Opacity
$145 See the dealer to tell me they can't change a light bulb on my dash -- It is a $700 cluster replace
$16 New air filter
$45 8 Quarts of Synthetic diesel oil and filter
$25 second oil change on side of the road with 8 quarts of standard diesel oil and filter
$54 BG244
$0 Driving the car like it was stolen
$60 Second emissions test - Passed with 3% Opacity - limit 35%.
$400 Grand total - probably 1/2 that if I was not so stupid. Uggg.

Thanks to everyone's help and support. One of the great things about this wonderful forum. I guess lessons learned:

1. Change your air filter before the emissions test
2. Put some injector cleaner in a week before the test
3. Have a fresh oil change
4. Drive it like you stole it to the emissions station.

Gee - can't wait for the next test in 2 years :ROTFL:

dieseldoesit · **Posted:** Tue Nov 08, 2011 7:11 pm

UFO wrote:

Lack of attention on their part results in several hundred dollars more revenue for them. Rewarded for slacking off.

Isn't the expiration date listed on your registration and your tags?

WTF? How did this get above the message that I quoted?

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Tue Nov 08, 2011 7:13 pm

UFO wrote:

I wonder what really did it? Air filter could do it. ESP off most likely... Oil change highly unlikely.

The reason I post this response is I just had an emissions test at Progressive Diesel in Englewood, and they measured 25% opacity, almost failing, but passing none the less. The air filter may need service, the small element combined with dirty streets makes the change interval short. Next year it may need injector service, that's what I'm leery of, and that GB244 injector cleaner I highly suspect does nothing at all....

Anyway, the last test I did was close as well, and the other emissions tester in Parker made the claim it was the cold air that causes increased opacity. I am not sure of that either.

I'm a bit annoyed with the Denver Motor vehicle department...they did not send a registration renewal, so the tags expired, my wife got a ticket, and I have to get an emergency test and go in to the DMV in person wasting my time and paying another penalty for being late. That's quite a racket. Lack of attention on their part results in several hundred dollars more revenue for them. Rewarded for slacking off.

I'm at the point where I don't trust their emissions testing equipment, one place reads opacity at 0% and another reads it at 7%.

if it wasn't such a PITA it would be interesting to get your test done at nearly the same time on the same day with two different shops and see what their equipment said.

UFO · **Posted:** Tue Nov 08, 2011 7:34 pm

I wonder what really did it? Air filter could do it. ESP off most likely... Oil change highly unlikely.

The reason I post this response is I just had an emissions test at Progressive Diesel in Englewood, and they measured 25% opacity, almost failing, but passing none the less. The air filter may need service, the small element combined with dirty streets makes the change interval short. Next year it may need injector service, that's what I'm leery of, and that GB244 injector cleaner I highly suspect does nothing at all....

Anyway, the last test I did was close as well, and the other emissions tester in Parker made the claim it was the cold air that causes increased opacity. I am not sure of that either.

I'm a bit annoyed with the Denver Motor vehicle department...they did not send a registration renewal, so the tags expired, my wife got a ticket, and I have to get an emergency test and go in to the DMV in person wasting my time and paying another penalty for being late. That's quite a racket. Lack of attention on their part results in several hundred dollars more revenue for them. Rewarded for slacking off.

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Tue Nov 08, 2011 8:18 pm

UFO wrote:

I wonder what really did it? Air filter could do it. ESP off most likely... Oil change highly unlikely.

The reason I post this response is I just had an emissions test at Progressive Diesel in Englewood, and they measured 25% opacity, almost failing, but passing none the less. The air filter may need service, the small element combined with dirty streets makes the change interval short. Next year it may need injector service, that's what I'm leery of, and that GB244 injector cleaner I highly suspect does nothing at all....

Anyway, the last test I did was close as well, and the other emissions tester in Parker made the claim it was the cold air that causes increased opacity. I am not sure of that either.

I'm a bit annoyed with the Denver Motor vehicle department...they did not send a registration renewal, so the tags expired, my wife got a ticket, and I have to get an emergency test and go in to the DMV in person wasting my time and paying another penalty for being late. That's quite a racket. Lack of attention on their part results in several hundred dollars more revenue for them. Rewarded for slacking off.

It's your responsibility to make sure you get the tags on time,company's and states do not need to send a bill.Found that out the hard way.

UFO · **Posted:** Tue Nov 08, 2011 8:46 pm

tjkj2002 wrote:

It's your responsibility to make sure you get the tags on time,company's and states do not need to send a bill.Found that out the hard way.

I don't disagree, but it's the second time this year they have failed to send the renewal, and I have been renewing by mail in Colorado for 30 years now. One tends to form habits, and I REALLY dislike having to go to the DMV because THEY screwed up.

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Tue Nov 08, 2011 9:15 pm

UFO wrote:

tjkj2002 wrote:

It's your responsibility to make sure you get the tags on time,company's and states do not need to send a bill.Found that out the hard way.

I don't disagree, but it's the second time this year they have failed to send the renewal, and I have been renewing by mail in Colorado for 30 years now. One tends to form habits, and I REALLY dislike having to go to the DMV because THEY screwed up.

I never have had a reminder card sent either,never had one sent to me in 21 years in 2 different states and never once had expired tag's even when I was in Iraq or Afghanistan(not on my plates but in my wallet to put on when I was state side again).

UFO · **Posted:** Thu Nov 10, 2011 3:16 pm

Another part of the issue is the dealer that I bought the CRD titled the vehicle as a gas. If I had just run it through RapidScreen, I'd have never had to have emissions tested again. But when I showed up at the DMV, they said my title was incorrect because I had a diesel emissions test, and I had to pay extra for a VIN inspection and a new title.

$300 later, I can drive legally for one more year, not including the $75 ticket my wife got for the expired registration.

:banghead:

Silverdiesel · **Posted:** Thu Nov 10, 2011 9:48 pm

Several other Arizona CRDers besides me have had horrible experiences with AZ ADEQ inspections.
What I can tell here is what goes on and what you can do as a Jeep Diesel owner:

- The ADEQ staff is numb and unconcerned to any complaints we have because of all of the gasser scammers trying to get out of a failed inspections and crying to the officials already indifferent. They do not realize Jeep KJ has a diesel model.

-Two wheel rollers only for mandatory diesel vehicles- Arizona did not predict TC and antiskid standard features on future (and present) vehicles especially 4WD and AWD. ADEQ is run by a bunch of Knuckle Dragging politicans and CARB type engneers literally too stupid to keep up with the times.

-The roller test is to pull up to the rollers, turn off TC, then turn off the ignition and restart to check for a lingering CEL==but that returns on our ESP systems, then conduct test. Thats when everything goes wrong! Had a fellow CRDer pull up to the "diesel only" line at a testing station only to get yelled at by the techs to line up with the "gasoline only" line. They made him reline with the diesel when they realized he was diesel===these are the same techs conducting the roller tests!

- If ESP is on and test is started the system will apply brakes to the rears as it compares the speed to the fronts as they are not moving. This turns on ABS,BAS,ESP lites and fairly quickly the ECU goes to a limp mode. With the braking system going "yellow", ECU may pick up other anomalies and throw a CEL. Thats what happened to me as the TCM threw one of those P700 codes cause the tech accelerated to the rollers real fast and the trans was trying to go to second gear when limp hit. I did reach over and turn the ign key off.

-IN Arizona first 5 years of the vehicles life is exempt from testing then its every year. Fuel type listed on the Titles on both of my vehicles is diesel. ( my other vehicle is an 06 TDI WITH ESP so I will have the same problem!)

- Even with ESP off there are many TC and antiskid elements still active so be aware.

- When testing put B100 biofuel to ensure 0% black smoke.

- Best place to sit and watch everything is the passenger seat so you can reach over and shut the ignition off so the truck wont linger in limp mode and avoid a CEL if things get real bad.

Metro Phoenix and Metro Tucson only require these tests. Normally gassers do this every two years but we need to do this yearly(yuck). Just need to hold your own with these guys but remember they mainly don't care but some are just either not knowledgeable or plan dumb.

Roland

tregrrr · **Joined:** Mon Oct 10, 2011 2:37 pm **Posts:** 59

I am not sure how your bureau-rats have written the rules there, but up here there is a loophole that the Toyota Land Cruisers use to shirk the damage the government mandated :furious:

exercise causes their rigs on the rollers:

wait for it....

its really challenging...

it only works between October 1st to April 30th....

Studded Tires!!! :JEEPIN:

They cannot roller studded tires.

geordi · **Posted:** Fri Nov 11, 2011 4:16 pm

Scooter - CHANGE THAT OIL AGAIN NOW!!!!!!

You say you put in standard oil? Get that out of there, or your next post will be how you now need a new engine.

Trust me, I'm not kidding about this. The CRD engine's oil passages are WAY too small for standard oil to survive for very long, and when it breaks down, it will sludge up QUICK and then your rod bearings will starve for oil. At that point, you have maybe 30-45 SECONDS to shut everything down before the rod comes apart and goes through the block or the pan. There have been at least 2 failures in this exact way, mine was one of them from oil starvation from a blown turbo shaft. The other... Had standard oil in the engine.

Don't try to save $30 on oil by spending $8000.

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Fri Nov 11, 2011 8:49 pm

UFO wrote:

Another part of the issue is the dealer that I bought the CRD titled the vehicle as a gas. If I had just run it through RapidScreen, I'd have never had to have emissions tested again. But when I showed up at the DMV, they said my title was incorrect because I had a diesel emissions test, and I had to pay extra for a VIN inspection and a new title.

$300 later, I can drive legally for one more year, not including the $75 ticket my wife got for the expired registration.

:banghead:

I just had this same problem with that CRD i bought from NJ, when I got the colorado title it said gas instead of diesel. That just added to the whole pita that was.

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Fri Nov 11, 2011 8:50 pm

geordi wrote:

You say you put in standard oil? Get that out of there, or your next post will be how you now need a new engine.

Then apparently my next post for the last 4.5 years and 100k miles has been that I'm going to need a new engine.

geordi · **Posted:** Sat Nov 12, 2011 1:58 am

I don't see how that is possible Sam - You seriously use non-synthetic oil in the CRD? Aside from the fact that it calls for a synthetic oil from VM, the rating of standard oils barely exceeds CF, when we also are supposed to have a CH grade or higher. So standard oils aren't anywhere within the spec.

How is it you have run with them and not killed an engine? Someone else on here has already lost an engine and they definitely said they were running standard IIRC.

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Sat Nov 12, 2011 8:58 am

geordi wrote:

I don't see how that is possible Sam - You seriously use non-synthetic oil in the CRD? Aside from the fact that it calls for a synthetic oil from VM, the rating of standard oils barely exceeds CF, when we also are supposed to have a CH grade or higher. So standard oils aren't anywhere within the spec.

How is it you have run with them and not killed an engine? Someone else on here has already lost an engine and they definitely said they were running standard IIRC.

If it's the correct weight and you actually change it on time there is no issues running dino engine oil in the CRD.Gotta guy that brings his CRD in for oil changes and we use his oil which is Rotella dino and chnaged every 5k and he has done that since the 1st oil change and he's almost at 100k.

5W-40 dino and 5w-40 syn are the same wieght and both meet the 5w-40 flow specs for hot/cold.

racertracer · **Posted:** Sat Nov 12, 2011 10:20 am

Normally, conventional oil (non synthetic) is changed at 3000 miles in a gasser.

Conventional oil in a Diesel is changed much sooner and for that reason and many others it is not used.

Conventional oil quickly breaks down in our high heat turbo charged engine.

If you run conventional oil through our turbos, 4Ow oil degrades down to 30W, 20W or less very quickly.

It is just not possible for a conventional oil to withstand the high heat of our turbos for an extended amount of time so why do it. Cheap oil is cheap oil. Don't take the chance.

A hard driven CRD on as little as a 50 mile trip could make your motor oil worthless and toast your engine in short order.

Spend a few weeks reading Bob the oil guy's web site and get enlightened, the web site talks about all there is to know about motor oil.

Many people on that site speak about our CRD and what oil is best to use for it, many discussions on 0w-40, 5w-40, 15w-40, brands and their change intervals.

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Sat Nov 12, 2011 7:02 pm

geordi wrote:

I don't see how that is possible Sam - You seriously use non-synthetic oil in the CRD? Aside from the fact that it calls for a synthetic oil from VM, the rating of standard oils barely exceeds CF, when we also are supposed to have a CH grade or higher. So standard oils aren't anywhere within the spec.

How is it you have run with them and not killed an engine? Someone else on here has already lost an engine and they definitely said they were running standard IIRC.

Look in the FSM for the recommended oil for EXPORT crd's :SOMBRERO:

Failed emissions in Colorado

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