I'm so tired all I can do is post my morning newsletter from this morning:
http://outfitnm.comBrian's Morning Newsletter
Monday, November 14 2011

Grand daughter Rachel-November-2011
Good Morning
As predicated Friday, I managed to marathon my way through the timing belt replacement on the Jeep this weekend. I don't mind telling you it was a hell of a feat. After I removed ten components from the front of the engine and exposed the belt I immediately posted these and more pics to
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum
Jeep-November2011-timing-belt-job
Brian's CRD
I'm at the timing belt

Jeep-November2011-timing-belt-job
Quote: (from a LostJeeps member)
However I would really recommend you have the proper tools, and if your thinking about replacing the water pump you NEED to have them. The cam pulleys are a press fit and there is nothing that keeps the pulley timed to the cams.

Crap, typical though, all the reading I did prior to doing this job, and I didn't notice the mention of the three special tools. Unfortunately for me I kept getting distracted by posts like "disconnect the fuel heater" "clean the MAP sensor" "SEGR" "ECO tune"

Now that I see that the cam gear lock is for not only holding the cams in position while replacing the belt, more importantly it holds the gears while the nuts are torqued.
I wonder why the FSM is laid out in a such a peculiar fashion: For instance removing the inner timing belt cover is described before removing the outer TB cover. This is my first Mopar vehicle so I don't know if the 2005 Jeep Liberty FSM is typical, but I am not impressed by this book which cost nearly $200.
By the time I read this much in a Ford FSM I knew how air-conditioning worked, and OBD, Just sayin, have other mechanics questioned the layout of the FSMs? Instead of listing the page number the book suggests we refer to section 9 – Timing Cover Inner. which wouldn't be terrible if they had an index, sigh. Some pages are filled with this gibberish: refer to 7 – Viscous Fan Clutch Removal, so much so that they never get to the point of making it clear where anything thing is. I'm disappointed in the Mopar FSM.
Anyway, I am to the timing belt, it wasn't too bad to get to, certainly easier than a transverse engine tranny job. I haven't been a mechanic in over twenty five years, in case you're wondering about my expertise. I have for fun put a OBD TBI 4.3 liter Chevy V6 in a Mercedes Benz 240d creating what I called a Merchevy. That was back before I knew the value of a diesel engine obviously. My point is I know how to mod. My speciality was electronics, now that is as far behind me like the mechanic job.
It seems like I will be making some tools today, Let me read through your write up Sir Sam and see if there is a picture of the two cam lock tools.
One problem I'm having is the skid plate has one bolt that won't come out. I can tighten it with an impact wrench to try and reseat the insert, but it still spins when I back it off, It is the drivers side rear nut. I am assuming that is exactly where the flex plate hex key crank lock pin hole is.

Actually the Jeep has been very nice to work on, I'm not complaining just looking for the smart(er) way through this.

Jack-Jeep-Shop-November-2011
Jack-Jeep-Shop-November-2011 Jackson hung with me for the whole project and that was really nice of him, because this was a massively technical job, done by yours truly following a strict seat of the pants formula, and yes, it's feels good to have a witness.
Another forum member chimed in with this workaround:
———-
Brian,
Have a quick look at the following:
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=62695This is the tool I devised to help lock in the cams. Others also suggested even more simpler ways…
Good luck!_________________
Green Metallic 2006 CRD Limited
Loaded, lifted & loving it!
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Cam-gears-lock
Cam-gears-lock I don't know if you followed the link, but instead of the special cam lock tool shown below which I did not possess this very timely and helpful gentleman suggested I build the little steel bracket shown above to hold the gears in place. Basically a line is drawn across all the important gears using a ruler and a paint pen. This creates reference points to which we can test that the gears did not move when the new belt is installed.

Special-cam-lock-tool
We checked the water pump which is shown in the above image from this PDF file on the left next to the red circle. Jesus, I am so glad the water pump spun smoothly and had no leaks, because darn, it is buried deep. The above image shows the engine out and the water pump is still deep, meaning a shit-load more components need to be removed to replace the pump. The reason why mechanics replace it during a timing belt swap is it is driven from the timing belt, and we're already halfway in there. I planned on replacing both idlers shown in black below the special tool with the black handle, but somehow I had only ordered one. We thought about it for a while, but not too long, as it was already 3:00 PM Sunday and decided the idlers were in good condition and putting one new one would serve any purpose. I did replace the belt tensioner which is shown with a blue tinge.
It is 7:00AM and I am feeling like I just worked three shifts on a concrete floor. Add to that leaning over an engine compartment for sixteen hours and my knees and back are talking about this adventure more than my brain. Actually my fingers do not feel too great either. Now I have to go do my job, thank goodness this is a short week.
BTW, the engine started up and purred like a kitten.
Hasta la Vista Baby
Brian Rodgers