No odometer reading, ABS light on, EVIC temp reading frozen

UtopiaCRD · **Posted:** Mon Nov 21, 2011 12:16 pm

I searched back and found this exact problem described here, but unfortunately the OP never came back with the solution.

My 2005 CRD Limited just developed an electrical problem where the odometer quit incrementing (both on dash and EVIC mileage and trip), the EVIC temperature readout is stuck at 53ºF, and the ABS light is on.

The ABS light came on after a stop that activated the ABS (actually came on a few miles later) and I knew my conventional brakes were still functioning so I kept going to the next town, where I was going to fill up anyway. When I recorded my mileage and the MPG reading from the lie-o-meter, I noticed the MPG reading was lower than normal. When I started back up, *yay* the ABS light was out, so away I went. A few miles down the road (17) the ABS light came on. Again the conventional brakes worked, so I kept going. I glance at the MPG reading on the EVIC and it is 29, which is about normal that soon after filling up. A few miles later I look again, and it is 24. Then 23.9,23.8,23.7,23.6 -- dropping like a rock as I watched. Everything is running fine, though. When it gets to 15, I stop to look for fuel gushing out somewhere, but no problem. Then I notice the trip odometer is at 17 miles, and I have gone at least twice that far.

I shut down the engine, thinking that maybe the cycling would fix things like it did when I fueled up. Nope, still the same. When I got to my destination, I disconnected the battery cable thinking it might reset something and be all better. No change.

I see on here where there has been a similar problem with the speed sensor for the ABS with the wire on the plug breaking inside the insulation. Maybe that is my problem, but I cant see why that would affect the EVIC temp reading. If it is some other problem, I don't want to go chopping off plugs on sensors for no reason.

Anybody got a solution for this? I'll replace the sensor plug happily (well, assuming someone can tell me where to get one), but that temperature being frozen just seems odd to me...

papaindigo · **Posted:** Mon Nov 21, 2011 2:49 pm

I'm not an EVIC expert but I suspect you have 2 different issues:
1. ABS light on and odometer not functional is commonly a bad wheel speed sensor. See for example viewtopic.php?f=5&t=57905 On the 2005 I believe there are sensors on both front wheels and a single sensor in the rear. While the failure of any one can cause this problem the rear one seems to be the most common problem on the 2005 either due to sensor failure or a failure of the relatively small wires to that sensor inside the wire insulation. I assume a frozen odometer will cause the EVIC mileage to go bad but I do not know for sure. I'm also assuming you checked the wheels for excess heat such as would be generated by dragging brakes.
2. EVIC temp reading "shouldn't" have anything to do with the above although there is a possiblility of a poor battery or some odd electrical problem echoing thru the system and making the electronics do weird things. Back in the day I had a car that would lose the turn signal on the same side as a blown headlight even though the 2 were on different fused circuits.

UtopiaCRD · **Posted:** Mon Nov 21, 2011 4:54 pm

Thanks for the ideas. Now that you mention it, there WAS a point in the trip where the temperature did read for a few minutes, so maybe that goes along with your thought that the odo/ABS problem might be separate from the temp readout problem. I constantly drive with the MPG reading on the EVIC, and my wife is always switching it as we go to check the outside temp. She had checked it a couple of times in the first 30 miles of the trip. After the MPG reading was bad, there was no reason to keep it displayed so I switched to the temp display, and that's when we noticed it was still reading the same temp as earlier in the day.

That's what I was hoping for, that there was someplace where the two readings come together, some computer or PCB that they have in common so I would have a place to start looking for a bad wire or connection.

I have had no starting problems or issues with the battery, although I did notice a little corrosion on one post that I need to clean anyway, so I'll go do that to keep myself busy.

Maybe I'll take it in under the warranty, although it has a $200 deductible. I need a speaker replaced, as well as the hood support struts. Maybe if it's cold enough I can convince them it needs the new thermostat, too (which it does). My confidence that a dealer can find a mysterious electrical problem without causing more issues than they solve is not too high, though.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Mon Nov 21, 2011 5:08 pm

I can tell you, now that I think about it, that when I first crank up it takes a significant period of time, like up to 5 minutes, for my EVIC temp to provide an accurate reading. Prior to that it sits on what I think was the reading at shut down but I honestly have not paid attention. As to whether or not it does the same scrolling thru readings, I don't usually scroll so I don't know. My point being you might want to set the EVIC on temp and drive a bit to see if the reading changes. Just a thought.

UtopiaCRD · **Posted:** Tue Nov 22, 2011 12:01 am

Sorry I wasn't clear -- it was the MPG that was declining, the result of the odometer not increasing the miles, but still trying to calculate the MPG based on lots of fuel used and not getting anywhere, it thought. The temp stayed at 53 all of the trip except for a short time when it seemed to work correctly, but then went back to 53, which is what it reads now.

irunmiles · **Posted:** Wed Nov 23, 2011 9:33 am

Your symptoms sound like a faulty speed sensor which is located on top of the rear differential. There are many posts on the topic.

UtopiaCRD · **Posted:** Wed Nov 23, 2011 10:24 am

irunmiles wrote:

Your symptoms sound like a faulty speed sensor which is located on top of the rear differential. There are many posts on the topic.

Yeah, I guess I'll go with getting that (and the connector) replaced by the dealer. I have enough other stuff needed to get that done under the warranty IF they will replace the t-stat. Not having the odometer is driving me nuts -- I didn't realize how anal I am about the fuel economy recording!

Thanks.

irunmiles · **Posted:** Wed Nov 23, 2011 1:29 pm

My sensor was not bad, it was the connector. I cut it off, took it apart for cleaning, and then resoldered the wires.

UtopiaCRD · **Posted:** Wed Nov 23, 2011 5:26 pm

irunmiles wrote:

My sensor was not bad, it was the connector. I cut it off, took it apart for cleaning, and then resoldered the wires.

From what others have experienced here, that would be what I would do, if I were going to fix it. Since it is the dealer fixing it, they will replace the sensor since that is easier and cheaper, and is in line with the "throw parts at it 'till it works or the customer gets fed up and takes it somewhere else" concept. If I take it in and they refuse to replace the t-stat under the warranty, then I'll bring it home and replace the connector on the speed sensor myself.

I have not looked at the connector yet, but I'm surprised you were able to get it apart to re-solder it. From other descriptions here, it sounded like the connection was in there permanently and it would not come out. If I end up doing it, I'll at least take it off and see if I can get it out and re-solder. Thanks!

No odometer reading, ABS light on, EVIC temp reading frozen

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