Engine died - suggestions?

Lancer · **Posted:** Sat Dec 03, 2011 8:06 pm

Ok, I went out this morning to drive to the Finnish Church in London for their Christmas market, and the first thing I noticed when I switched on was that the EVIC had reset itself to default presets - ie the temp read in fahrenheit ( I have it set to celcius), the evic odo was zeroed, the fuel average readout was zeroed, the tank (you know Xmiles to empty readout) was zero - everything except the count down to the next service. The odo etc in the instrument binnacle was fine.

It cycled through all the usual lights on the dash with nothing staying on, and no warning chimes. Started normally, drove off normally and a few minutes later I accelerated up the ramp to the dual carriageway without a problem. About half a mile later on the carriageway it went into limp mode suddenly - no lights no chimes no noises that I could hear, and then as I headed to the slow lane, the engine just died (as did the power steering obviously). I coasted to the hard shoulder and switched on the hazard lights, waited a few minutes and then tried to start. All the lights came on as usual, the starter motor turned with no problem, but the engine wouldn't start. I called out the AA, and the Jeep is at the dealer now, and they'll be taking a look on Monday. I had a quick look under the bonnet, and underneath and could see nothing untoward, no leaks of any fluid, the hoses all seemed intact, the serpentine belt was ok (as far as I could tell). Given the traffic flashing by very close, I wasn't disposed to try crawling around for any lenght of time!

Any ideas what could have been the cause? The EVIC problem and the engine must be connected, as it would be a hell of a coincidence if they happened independently of each other!

dkenny · **Posted:** Sun Dec 04, 2011 12:07 am

wild guess, but the battery died..as in its now an open circuit..or worse it was briefly. worse because they won't find anything wrong and no code were set.

the battery in this state might also measure fine with a DVM until a load is applied..and it might work fine then until its bumped..

-dkenny

ps my old boss had a problem like this in the Toyota(gas mini van)..it would just die and no codes were ever set..no battery voltage to set the codes..

geordi · **Posted:** Sun Dec 04, 2011 12:44 am

Kenny makes a good point - How many years on that battery? If it is the original Red Top... Then count yourself insanely lucky it lasted this long.

I agree that this sounds electrical, the battery needs to have enough juice to both spin the starter AND run the computer at the same time. If it isn't the battery, or the dealer gives you the dreaded "cannot duplicate" answer, then I would look to the fuel supply. It wouldn't explain the EVIC, but the whole runs-fine-but-dies-suddenly sounds like a confirmed dead alternator that then ran the engine off the battery until that was dead... EXCEPT that you say the starter still spun.

That doesn't compute. A diesel hardly requires any power to operate normally, the computer doesn't draw diddly. So if you have a bad alternator and a full battery... You COULD be driving on just the battery power for many miles and be just fine. When the battery could no longer support the computer however - You stop and thats it.

Lancer · **Posted:** Sun Dec 04, 2011 8:41 am

It's a red top that was put in just over 5 years ago. As I said - the engine was running fine, then suddenly into limp then dead, but the starter still turned over fine - no slow struggle if you know what I mean. If the alternator died and I was running on battery, would it have turned over so well?

I must say that when I first saw that the Evic had reset, I thought of the battery but the quick and easy start put that out of my mind.

Given that it is a diesel - how much electrical power would it need while driving? I could understand it with a petrol engine - that happened to me once, but a diesel?

nissanfrontier · **Joined:** Tue Dec 22, 2009 4:09 pm **Posts:** 145

Well maybe the alternator is failing on you? My situation was original red top quit early, put a replacement in Johnson Controls 34. Year later my alternator took a crap on me. Never had an issue with ALT in my life.
If all your electrical is good I think you might have Fuel issue with filter head and maybe the reason it shut down any air leaks even tiny result in stalling. These CRDs need juice just to run around while my Alt quit I drove 35 minutes then was getting on freeway all lights came on, battery was flashing maybe 10 minutes before everything stopped.

Lancer · **Posted:** Mon Dec 05, 2011 5:37 am

Ok. I gather the mechanics are looking at it, but I did put to them the concensus view of 1. Battery/alternator or 2. air in fuel - although that wouldn't explain the evic reset.

I'll let you all know when we have a solution. I am REALLY hoping it's the battery (although that would then be my christmas present for this year, and next year, and my birthday as well!). If its air, then we have the whole problem of trying to find the leak. If it's anything else, it could be a bit expensive!

Lancer · **Posted:** Mon Dec 05, 2011 9:31 am

Well, it was electrical! A fuse blew on the battery side, but they can't find out why. They've replaced the fuse and driven it around, but of course it hasn't done it again:)

They checked the alternator and that is fine, but they've load-tested the battery, and the results apparently indicate that it is indeed on its way out. They could put it on charge overnight, but think its a waste of time.

So, I've ordered an Odyssey PC1500 which will be with me tomorrow. The only thing is, NO-ONE does the RT. If I want an RT, it'll be a special order from the US ( and very expensive accordingly) So I'll have to try and fit the battery in "back to front" so to speak!

Any suggestions? Or will this be a nightmare?

papaindigo · **Posted:** Mon Dec 05, 2011 10:45 am

As I understand it the Odyssey PC1500 is identical to the Sears Platnium P-1 (same company makes both) just costs more, at least it does over here. I have a P-1 and it fits just fine if you install with the + terminal on the driver's side. Plenty of length in the + cable but I had to slightly bend the - terminal to get it to fit but that was no problem. The hold down clamp fits (don't tighten it too much or it will break in two) but the insulation mat from the red top won't fit so I just junked that as not needed IMHO.

Lancer · **Posted:** Mon Dec 05, 2011 11:18 am

Thanks Papindigo! It should be here tomorrow. If I'd ordered the RT model of the PC 1500, I'd have been looking at a 12 week delivery time!

Should I charge it first, or just put it in and then drive around for an hour or so?

papaindigo · **Posted:** Mon Dec 05, 2011 12:10 pm

All the batteries I've purchased came fully charged and I'm not sure if there are special needs for charging an Absorbent glass mat batttery. Put it in and drive a bit will probably do just fine.

Lancer · **Posted:** Mon Dec 05, 2011 2:26 pm

Thanks. Actually, thanks to everyone who chipped in and helped me with their views - I really do appreciate it. Lets hope the new battery is the solution.

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Mon Dec 05, 2011 4:17 pm

papaindigo wrote:

All the batteries I've purchased came fully charged and I'm not sure if there are special needs for charging an Absorbent glass mat batttery. Put it in and drive a bit will probably do just fine.

There's specific charging instructions on the Odyssey site for charging your battery if it's below a certain voltage. If it's under 12.65 it needs recharged. there will be a sticker on the battery indicating month and year it was made and for warranty purposed leave the tag on.
http://www.odysseyfactory.com/batteries.html
Here's a u-tube video of how they're made :wink:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3P-wqckJ2nM

papa, remember he's across the pond and the driver's side is on the right :SOMBRERO:

I don't think the minus cable will reach if he puts the positive on the driver's side.
It's very easy to fasten a piece of valcrow on the strap on the blanket so it will fit around the larger battery

papaindigo · **Posted:** Mon Dec 05, 2011 4:36 pm

Joe - I'd forgotten all about the right hand drive issue but which ever way the Red Top is currently oriented I'd orient the Odyssey the same way and it should still fit fine if, as I am reasonably sure, it has the same dimensions as the Sears P-1 since the terminals are close to the edge. Yeh I know about the velcro deal; I just did not bother.

Lancer · **Posted:** Mon Dec 05, 2011 7:49 pm

Thanks again lads

Engine died - suggestions?

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