in hose thermostat -(no housing)

yrkcrd · **Posted:** Mon Dec 05, 2011 4:03 pm

Interesting idea, and it is certainly easy enough.

secondechomatt · **Posted:** Mon Dec 05, 2011 4:43 pm

just a bit of an update. I'd say I have picked up an easy 3-4 mpg after fixing it. Heat is toasty, and I'm happy!

chillmobil · **Joined:** Sun Jul 10, 2011 5:46 pm **Posts:** 34

secondechomatt wrote:

just a bit of an update. I'd say I have picked up an easy 3-4 mpg after fixing it. Heat is toasty, and I'm happy!

Hi,

I went ahead and ordered a complete new thermostat and housing before I saw this thread. Living in Canada, the thermostat was on back order and $250. I found one online shipped from the US for $157. It is still in transit. I will try and sell it to someone from this forum or on ebay as I think I will now proceed with this Stant thermostat option.

I just walked to our local parts supply store in town and they are shipping one overnight from their Vancouver store to Kelowna for $15! Plus a bit of my time and I think I will be laughing..

One I have it in hand, I may post a pic asking for an exact location to dill the hole. Thank you very much for the thread!

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Mon Dec 05, 2011 11:05 pm

FYI - RockAuto has the Stant for $9 & $2 shipping.

I replaced the OEM thermostat last year and it was solid at 176F - however the first cold spell we've had here this year - I'm running 166F.... Stant looks good even if I need to change it out for the summer time (and that's not proven - just a possibility)

CRD05il · **Posted:** Tue Dec 06, 2011 11:38 am

Got mine in this morning. Now my temp got hot 2 blocks from home. It stays steady at one tick left of noon. I did use some spray to lube the hose before putting in the thermostat. It just sliped in with no problems. It took all of 5 minutes.

yes · **Joined:** Mon Sep 26, 2011 11:32 pm **Posts:** 28

Just installed mine i used 180 degree option, drilled 1/8 inch hole in skirt, did not loose very much coolant at all. My thermostat bulb was just under flush with my hose i wanted it protuding but it was too much for the hose to go on completely.--with heat off stays just shy of 12 o'clock.(before this install one tick past 1/4) drops a few ticks with heat on. Heat is not much different , it was always good, i guess the viscus heater really did most of the work, i should see better mileage due to the viscous heater can relax a bit now.
first test run drove about 10 miles never had any temp spikes at all. seems to be ok, i drive over 40 miles a day so i will keep every one posted, we should not really have any different results than the guys using the aftermarket housing.
No surprises here yet.

CRD05il · **Posted:** Wed Dec 07, 2011 6:44 pm

I don't see any movement when I turn on my heat. So I am guessing that the 195 is the better way to go? I have seen a increase in mileage too.

yes · **Joined:** Mon Sep 26, 2011 11:32 pm **Posts:** 28

it may be , but the drop is small, not really enough to worry about, I wonder where the temp sensor for the gauge is located? maybe i have a slight blockage?

papaindigo · **Posted:** Thu Dec 08, 2011 7:26 am

Temp sensor is on drivers side of OEM tstat.

DOC4444 · **Posted:** Thu Dec 08, 2011 8:55 am

I do not understand drilling a bypass hole in a 13519. There appears to be no skirt. Can someone post a picture? Also, are people not running into problems getting all the air out of the system after just replacing the coolant lost from removing the hose?

Thanks,

DOC

racertracer · **Posted:** Thu Dec 08, 2011 4:22 pm

DOC4444 wrote:

I do not understand drilling a bypass hole in a 13519. There appears to be no skirt. Can someone post a picture? Also, are people not running into problems getting all the air out of the system after just replacing the coolant lost from removing the hose?

Thanks,

DOC

Air in the system goes away on its own.

If you have air in your system it's not a good sign.

Here is a quick test to see if your system is building up pressure.

1. Cold engine and engine is off, remove radiator cap to relieve any pressure in the system.
2. Replace Radiator cap and start engine....let it run for 60 seconds then shut it off.
3. Remove radiator cap ...... there should be absolutely no air escaping out of the cap. No pressure build up what so ever. No air at all, even a miniscule amount of air escaping is not a good sign.

If you do, then you know what that means.

yes · **Joined:** Mon Sep 26, 2011 11:32 pm **Posts:** 28

there is a skirt it is small not as large as a coventional american type, but there is one, some members did not drill any hole, some did for flow reasons and for temp spikes.

MainstreaM · **Posted:** Fri Dec 09, 2011 2:47 am

My temps have been low lately, around 160 at highway cruise. Did this mod and temps raised to 165 at highway cruise. Better but still not where I would like to see them. I may have to block some of the radiator to get higher temps for better combustion. I ordered the stant 195 mentioned above and it was an in hose tstat but did not have a wax pellet. It was the standard spring type with a small ball check valve. I pulled the check valve off and the hole left was just about right for avoiding temp spikes.

Kane

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Fri Dec 09, 2011 6:28 pm

my Stant 195F came in yesterday (Note: Rockauto - ordered it Monday)
installed today - it helps - I was running 180-190 on the Scangauge - barely touched 195 running around town.

FYI - the edges isn't a solid ring - it's sheet metal - plenty of places to drill holes - my 1/8 and 3/32 were gone - so I tried a .100 no temp spike.

and mine's also the spring style - doesn't look like the original Google image...

tregrrr · **Joined:** Mon Oct 10, 2011 2:37 pm **Posts:** 59

so... the local part store crossed my requested stant part # to a gates part.

It looks similar, and has a pilot hole drilled already but only 1/32". I also noticed that it is a fail closed design rather than the downstream valve that we currently have which offers us a cold engines instead of boil over.

Is the mechanics the same on the Stant part: does it open by moving the plug upstream towards the engine as it opens?? Anyone ever see an inline that opens like ours?? I think I prefer the thought of it getting too cold rather than boiling over on failure.

secondechomatt · **Posted:** Sat Dec 10, 2011 10:05 am

I know what you are saying.

I guess its not that big of a problem. If you start to overheat, stop, let the vehicle cool and then take the 5 minutes to pull the hose, then remove the inline thermo.

presto, cool engine.

racertracer · **Posted:** Sat Dec 10, 2011 12:11 pm

If the engine temperature spikes, the temp gauge on the dash is not quick enough to report it, you will never know what hit you and your head gasket will be toast.

You will never have a chance to remove the hose, becasue you will need hands of steel to withstand the heat and by the time you do remove it, it may be too late.

Ask me how I know.

Fool around with the cooling system at your own risk.

P.S. During the time of your engine temperature spiking, you happen to hear three consecutive chimes deriving from under and within the dash area, well then you can prepare to take care of a big engine problem in the very near future, all this will happen within seconds.

DOC4444 · **Posted:** Sat Dec 10, 2011 7:26 pm

Since the topic of thermosts failing closed has come up (got flamed the last time I brought it up), MotoRad has a 1988 Eagle Alliance 2.2L "FailSafe" (fails OPEN) thermostat (PN 7237-192) that should fit like a STANT 13519. I'm ordering one now and will report.

DOC

CRD05il · **Posted:** Sat Dec 10, 2011 7:41 pm

Doc4444 That looks better then the first idea. But I have have mine installed already so maybe next year I will swap it out to that one. One question is can you drill a hole to help flow?

DOC4444 · **Posted:** Sat Dec 10, 2011 8:08 pm

Website does not have a picture, so I don't know. Will let you know when I receive it. Anyone have an OD measurement on the 13519?

DOC

in hose thermostat -(no housing)

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