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 Post subject: Air in the fuel head
PostPosted: Sat Dec 03, 2011 7:28 pm 
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It looks like a have the new style fuel head from what I read here. I also watched the youtube video but I can't get any fuel out. I pumped, then cracked the bleed screw but nothing comes out. I even put a Mityvac on it. Pumped it up and cracked the screw. Still nothing. I left it open a bit, primed and sucked together. After a few minutes I got a little spittle but that's all. I pumped both until my arms cramped but still nothing. I closed the screw and started the engine with no problem.

The previous owner replaced replaced the stock plastic tank with a steel tank. I guess he punctured it with a trailer tongue because the steel one has a dent in it too. All the hoses look like they have been replaced recently but I removed all the splices and replaced all the screw clamps with EFI clamps. I don't know where else to look for a leak.

How does the engine even run? Sure, it misses a little at idle. That's why I decided to bleed it. But shouldn't it die with an air leak so big that I can't bleed the fuel head??

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 Post subject: Re: Air in the fuel head
PostPosted: Sat Dec 03, 2011 11:27 pm 
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Install a lift pump and if you have an air leak, it will show up or go away when the, snap connector, "o" ring, or hose to fitting joint gets wet with fuel.
I bet you can figure out I am not a Fundamentalist Bone Stock guy. If it works or runs better with the mod, I am for it.
Plus, take no prisoners when it comes to Bean Counters.

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 Post subject: Re: Air in the fuel head
PostPosted: Sun Dec 11, 2011 9:12 am 
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The snap connectors are gone but the previous owner used 3/8 hose on them. The screw clamps just didn't get down tight enough to prevent sucking air. I changed everything over to 5/16 hose and EFI clamps.

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Mopar bull bar, roof basket, pet barrier, step rails, off-road fuel cell


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 Post subject: Re: Air in the fuel head
PostPosted: Sun Dec 11, 2011 12:24 pm 
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Sounds like the best thing for you would be a lift pump a simple filter head change did me but because all the previous owner modifications to the fuel system a lift pump is the way to go. As warp said the lift pump will either solve your issue or show you exactly where it is there are quite a few write ups on all the possible options out there from the cheap to the extreme detail professional look.

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 Post subject: Re: Air in the fuel head
PostPosted: Sun Dec 11, 2011 12:50 pm 
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rictek wrote:
I can't get any fuel out. I pumped, then cracked the bleed screw but nothing comes out.


You must crack the bleeder and then pump the plunger, otherwise the air has nowhere to go. The sequence is: crack bleeder, pump once, tighten bleeder while the plunger is still down, release plunger, repeat.

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 Post subject: Re: Air in the fuel head
PostPosted: Sun Dec 11, 2011 1:23 pm 
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It's also possible the bleeder is bad, one of my CRDs the bleeder would not release fuel out the end of the bleeder, had to really loosen it to let it leak out past the threads.

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 Post subject: Re: Air in the fuel head
PostPosted: Sun Dec 11, 2011 2:31 pm 
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I took the banjo fitting off and connected a clear tube. Then, I pumped the crap out of it with a Mityvac, and a big plug of black plastic curls came out. I guess it was in the factory plastic tank and the engine fuel pump could suck past it...somewhat. :roll: Now the plunger pump works like it is supposed to.

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 Post subject: Re: Air in the fuel head
PostPosted: Sun Dec 11, 2011 5:35 pm 
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How does it run now?

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 Post subject: Re: Air in the fuel head
PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2011 6:54 pm 
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If you read my other post, I installed a Mr Gasket lift pump this weekend. The stumble is gone, the boost comes on faster. More smoke when accelerating cold and maybe it is my imagination but I think there is a little more diesel clatter.

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2006 Limited, navi option, dealer tune, Mr Gasket lift pump, Stant 13519 thermostat, Sears P1
Mopar bull bar, roof basket, pet barrier, step rails, off-road fuel cell


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 Post subject: Re: Air in the fuel head
PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2011 8:52 pm 
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rictek wrote:
If you read my other post, I installed a Mr Gasket lift pump this weekend. The stumble is gone, the boost comes on faster. More smoke when accelerating cold and maybe it is my imagination but I think there is a little more diesel clatter.


If you do to the EGR what Seal Team 6 did to Osama Bin Laden, and clean your MAP, the black smoke will go away. With my mods including my Inmotion Stage II tune, I do not get black smoke.
In a diesel engine EGR reduces the unused oxygen to reduce NOX emissions. Since there is no closed loop system to do this deed, the EGR over compensates and there is not enough oxygen. Add to that all the soot the EGR puts into the intake and I bet you can see the problem.

:idea: If someone had the time to do the design work and work out the Chemistry, it is possible one could drink a lot of coffee and process their #1 into Urea by removing the salt with reverse osmosis. Then the on board brewed DEF could be injected or dribbled into the exhaust and lower the NOX with out EGR. I would be that ORT drivers would love this set up, they could drink lots of coffee, not have to stop to get rid of it, and save money by brewing their own DEF. I am surprised CARB and EPA have not made this mandatory. :ROTFL: :ROTFL: :ROTFL:

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2006 Pearl Green CRD
Magnaflow 2 1/2" Cat Back
KJ Extra Leg Room Brackets, Carter Lift Pump, V6 Airbox, ORM
Fuel cooler, Oil Separator, Progard 7
Gauges EGT Boost Trans Temp Oil Pres, Michelin LXT AT2 245 70 R16
7,000# Draw Tight hitch, PML EX Deep Trans Pan
Centrifuge, SunCoast, Transgo, RAM TCM, InMotion Stage 2
Wife's 99 TDI VW Beetle


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