Need help/advice on problems with my turbo.

2mopar_diesels · **Posted:** Wed Dec 14, 2011 3:17 pm

Not to scare you too bad, but mine made a slight "whistling/wooshing" sound that sounded exactly like a split hose, as I've had before on the old Cummins. This, started a few weeks ago, and is now sitting DOA at a dealership 300mi away. Before you do anything else, check the oil level.........if it is low, you could very well have a turbo that is loosing it's oil seal and on its way out. Reason I say this, is that when the turbo starts starving for oil, it makes an almost identical sound to a boost leak.

By the way, what's with NC??? This makes 3-4 of us here that came down with turbo problems in that cursed state........LOL!!!

kissfan79 · **Posted:** Wed Dec 14, 2011 4:32 pm

LOL....NC representing. Thanks for the advice on the oil. The oil was a bit low a couple days before this happened so I addded some. I did check the oil level while at the gas station waiting for my sister in law to pick us up and it had not gone down any after driving it for about 60 miles or so with the issues. I will take some oil with me though tomorrow when I go pick it up just in case. When yours was making that whooshing/whistling sound.....did you also experience a lack of power or no? Mine will start to go and as you build up a bit of power it will whoosh and hesitate.....start to go again for a few seconds.....whoosh and hesitate again an so on until up to highway speed and then seems fine as long as you are just cruising. What causes the immense black smoke when I step on the gas?

Jim

CATCRD · **Posted:** Wed Dec 14, 2011 11:20 pm

The black smoke is caused by the fuel that's burning without enough air. The wooshing sound is a signal that your turbo is still working but the air is escaping out a leak. I would love to see you take the hoses off in the dealer lot and show them the split one! :-)r

kissfan79 · **Posted:** Thu Dec 15, 2011 2:29 pm

Well guys.....I got her home. It was deecent driving for the most part once you learn how to drive it with a LIGHT foot. I'm getting ready to head out for lunch and when I get back....I'll pull the hoses off and let everyone know what I find. It is definately not losing oil though. I checked before we left the dealership and then about half way home and the oil is good.

Jim

kissfan79 · **Posted:** Thu Dec 15, 2011 4:42 pm

Alright.......after further review......SPLIT HOSE baby! Sure enough....the driver's side hose going from the intercooler to the intake had a 1.5" split in it. I could stick my thumb through it and see my thumb inside the hose. It was on the under side near the intake. You would have never have known if you didn't take the hose off and pull back the mesh. I have already called the dealership I just came from to let them know (I'm not done with them yet!) and I'm off to my local dealership who has the hoses in stock. The turbo side hose actually didn't look as bad as I thought it would. Guys.....thanks a million for your help. I'm not celebrating until the new hose is on and she is right but I think it is safe to say that was the issue. I'll post again when I get it on.

Thanks again!

Jim

papaindigo · **Posted:** Thu Dec 15, 2011 5:36 pm

I'm shocked shocked I say :ROTFL:

. Glad it was that simple.

2mopar_diesels · **Posted:** Thu Dec 15, 2011 6:25 pm

papaindigo wrote:

I'm shocked shocked I say :ROTFL:

. Glad it was that simple.

Yeh, me too........wish mine was so simple!!! LOL!!!!!

kissfan79 · **Posted:** Thu Dec 15, 2011 6:26 pm

Well....I got the hoses on and she is running strong!

I hammered it a couple of times to blow some of the crud out and OMG the clouds. I actually left 2 long lines of soot on the pavement from giving it WOT. Now.....how do I get rid of the CEL? Do I have to go the dealership or is there a way I can reset it myself?

Thanks again guys. Ya'll saved me a ton of cash. I guess it's time to be a lifetime member.

Jim

smokinbubba · **Joined:** Mon Jul 12, 2010 8:15 pm **Posts:** 29

I would definitly demand a refund on the service work!! Any competent tech would test boost pressure and would have never removed the turbo to begin with. A burst hose would not build pressure. (happened on my cummins a few years back equipped with a boost gauge). Again, a competent tech would have checked for codes and seeing that you dont have a overboost code would have ruled out a carboned up turbo.

Some techs need to stick to gasser work

Hoosier CRD · **Posted:** Thu Dec 15, 2011 7:41 pm

kissfan79 wrote:

Well....I got the hoses on and she is running strong!

I hammered it a couple of times to blow some of the crud out and OMG the clouds. I actually left 2 long lines of soot on the pavement from giving it WOT. Now.....how do I get rid of the CEL? Do I have to go the dealership or is there a way I can reset it myself?

Thanks again guys. Ya'll saved me a ton of cash. I guess it's time to be a lifetime member.

Jim

Get rid of the CEL by going to a local parts store that will let YOU borrow a scan tool. Hook it up to the diagnostic port underneath the dash and follow the on screen instructions. You will likely see codes to the effect of EGR something or another. Clearing these may not last; the EGRs are prone to failure.

Also, check into Green Diesel Engineering for the Full Torque EcoTune. It will essentially eliminate the EGR valve operation (this is a good thing) and turn off any CELs related to the EGR.

I'm glad that the problem is fixed. Tonight, after getting my CRD washed, I found a clear stretch of road and blew mine out too. Had a car sort of behind me (one lane over) and she lit the way for me to see the stream that I was putting out.

Just be sure to let it run at low RPM for a bit, 2-3 minutes before you shut it down. I have 95K on my CRD with the original turbo. Have fun!

FWIW,

Hoosier CRD

kissfan79 · **Posted:** Mon Jan 23, 2012 1:50 pm

Not bring an old post back but I did hear back from the dealership shortly after the first of the year and after speaking with the service manager.....I did get a check in the amount of $85 back in the mail to refund my diagnostic charge. Also.....I am attaching 2 photos of the split hose.

This is a pic of the split itself on the underside of the CAC-intake hose:

This is a pic of my thumb in the split to illustrate how big the split really got:

Thanks again guys....

Jim

MRausch82 · **Posted:** Tue Jan 24, 2012 1:26 am

How can one tell the difference between 1st gen and 2nd gen boost hoses? I thought I had 2nd gen, but I am not so sure now...

kissfan79 · **Posted:** Tue Jan 24, 2012 8:31 am

You would have to look at the part numbers. The hoses I got at the dealership looked exactly like the old ones but the part number on the turbo-to-intercooler hose had a different part number than the old hose indicating 2nd gen. The hose going from the intercooler to intake was the same part number if I remember correctly. Also....I thought I read in the forums that it was only the one hose with the updated part number that got the special lining on the inside to help deal with the oil mist and that the intercooler-to-intake hose is the same as the original one.

Jim

geordi · **Posted:** Tue Jan 24, 2012 3:51 pm

If the intercooler-to-intake hose was not updated... Then prepare to be doing this again someday in about 60k miles or so. That hose is the one that is most likely to fail, and at the intake end like you discovered. Where do the idiots at Chrysler think the oil mist goes if only the first hose is updated? It doesn't stay in the intercooler, it coats the entire system and drains back INTO the hose from the intake! That is why the outside of the hose is so disgusting and filthy - the air pressure is physically FORCING the oil through the walls of the hose, where it eats it apart from the inside.

I hope you didn't reuse that chinese finger puzzle webbing - throw that crap away. But keep a look on your hoses whenever you are into the engine for something else - If the hoses start getting slimy / filthy on the outside in the middle again... You have the same problem in process, and Samco hoses should be in your future.

FYI: I bought the dealer hoses to replace mine too, so I will be the first to declare on here if that second hose really is or is not a new design when (if) I discover mine failing or filthy. Last time I looked, it was still oily inside (but nowhere near as bad as before I did the EHM) but the outside was dry.

Time will tell. Congrats on getting the dealer to refund your money!

waveracer · **Joined:** Wed Jul 25, 2012 10:40 pm **Posts:** 20

They are saying at the shop the turbo is gummed up and needs to be replaced, or they can try to clean it. $4000 for a new one or clean it for $500 that may or may not work any thoughts?
I gave up and took it in because I need the vehicle. In future I need a good Diesel Mechanic I can trust , I do not like going to the dealers, I don't trust them and their shop rate is ridiculous. If anyone knows of a good place in Calgary Alberta Canada it would be greatly appreciated to share that info.
I will see tomorrow morning what they say about the cleaning , he said the actuator plunger is gummed up and put some cleaner on it and they are leaving it overnight to see if it cleans it, he said it was definitely not the hoses, but to me that doesn't mean it isn't. Also Is there supposed to be air in the system? the service tech said that is normal , when I go to bleed the fuel separator pump there are a lot of bubbles coming out and this guy says it is the way they work but I though it was supposed to be a closed system with no air.
Wed Aug 1st
The shop said they got the actuator arm to move a little and it is getting 7psi pressure where it should be showing 16psi, I asked them to check the hoses but they say it is not the hoses , so I am picking it up today and will check them myself. I am also going to try getting the turbo hot enough to burn off the deposits , as I have read , maybe that will help, is there anything else I can do to diagnose/fix rather than getting a new turbo? They say I am going to need a new turbo.
Thanks for all your help!!

msilbernagel · **Posted:** Wed Aug 01, 2012 4:55 pm

There have been some posts lately describing how to clean / free up the actuator.

If you're up to it, you can try that - or just print the threads and bring it to the shop.

If it's just the actuator, the procedure should return the turbo to a reliable state.

Mark

waveracer · **Joined:** Wed Jul 25, 2012 10:40 pm **Posts:** 20

Thanks Mark,
Wee the %^*# hit the fan , I picked it up from the shop and what they had done did NOTHING, it was as bad as before and I went out to try to blow off the carbon as described in some other posts and I lost more power and the black smoke was happening, as well it started to knock , so I took it to a local diesel shop I had used a number of years ago to fix my toyota landcruiser diesel. I will get the verdict tomorrow. He said it sounded like an injector was stuck open and that the air in the fuel system was NOT normal even though they said it was at the dealership. I didn't think it was.
Thanks For all you help.
:SOMBRERO:

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Wed Aug 01, 2012 9:01 pm

waveracer wrote:

Also Is there supposed to be air in the system? the service tech said that is normal , when I go to bleed the fuel separator pump there are a lot of bubbles coming out and this guy says it is the way they work but I though it was supposed to be a closed system with no air.

It's amazing the clueless folks that will take money to work on something they don't understand.
The CRD fuel system stock - is vacuum - for it to run as the factory designed - there can be no leak.

If you've added a lift pump - you can tolerate some leaks... but not stock... stock must be tight.

waveracer · **Joined:** Wed Jul 25, 2012 10:40 pm **Posts:** 20

Thats for sure!!, at the diesel place I just went to they found a huge leak in the hose that the dealer said was not present, what a crock.
So they have the smoke issue figured out , but there is now a loud knocking in the engine that was not there begore I went to the dealer. I drove it around for about 20 minuted to try to get the turbo going and all of a sudden a loud knocking noise started kind of sounds like it is at the top of the engine. The fellow thought it may be an injector stuck open but they tested all and it is not that. Does anyone have an idea what could be causing the knock?
Thanks for all the help, it is at least good to be able to know a little of what's going on when these guys try to tell me something.

cerich · **Posted:** Fri Aug 03, 2012 5:06 pm

stop driving, check oil. If low just don't even turn the thing over!!

Go check now

Need help/advice on problems with my turbo.

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