CRD Broken Timing Belt Damage

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Mon Dec 05, 2011 4:37 pm

Find DTC with the intake and injectors off(I use a thin long rod for this). Then turn CW 90° to 90° aDTC, check for the flywheel hole with an appropriate sized drill bit, this is tricky as the hole is difficult to verify, there are lots of other holes in the flywheel that you can slip into, make sure the hole is tight and you can only turn the engine over a little by hand before it stops. do this a couple of times and you will be able to tell the difference between a flywheel hole and the 90° aDTC hole.

With the crank at 90° aDTC and the cams pinned at 90° aDTC you can reinstall the intake and put everything back together. Make sure to use the cam gear holder to torque down the gears - the cam timing pins cannot hold the torque needed for the nuts.

Then reinstall via normal timing belt procedure.

area52 · **Posted:** Mon Dec 05, 2011 10:17 pm

Man, 200,000 miles!! I did not even make 100,000 miles on mine.

Hopefully mine will be back on the road by Friday.

Dabincharlotte · **Joined:** Tue Nov 29, 2011 12:55 pm **Posts:** 10

Disassembly went well other than i broke this little plastic manifold for fuel return. It looks like it gathers the fuel from the common rail as well as the injectors and returns it to the fuel system It had a Dayco part number, and I imagine I could either try and glue it (I never have good luck gluing plastic...) or try to find a new one. Has anyone ever had to get one or otherwise know where to steer me to find one? I wasn't able to locate it by description or part number in the Mopar online catalogs.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Tue Dec 06, 2011 10:13 am

Check out viewtopic.php?f=5&t=36088 and viewtopic.php?f=5&t=50272&start=0

Dabincharlotte · **Joined:** Tue Nov 29, 2011 12:55 pm **Posts:** 10

I was able to get the Jeep all together yesterday and I thought I would share some observations and experiences for others. I won't put down step-by-step instructions of the tear down or reassembly since it has been done in this forum before by others (and much better than I could have done...)

Overall, the most difficult part was simply that I had not done this before and every step was done without the benefit of experience, so I had this general feeling of "am I sure I am doing this right?" all the way through the process. Now, with this repair under my belt I think I could do this same job in about 1/4 the time. The advice from others as well as the general information in the forum were invaluable.

More specifically:

- Getting the fan off without the special tool was a bear. (I used stronger words during the process) I ended up welding my own special tool out of flat steel and two 3/8" x 1" bolts to use as a locking tool. I would recommend getting the tool for this if you do the job. Your knuckles will thank you.

- The timing of the engine prior to reassembly, including pinning the flywheel and cams was one of those things that after I did it, it was remarkably logical.

- The wiring harness was a major pain in the rear trying to put the camshaft cover back on the rockers. The rockers are very susceptible to tipping off of their resting place on the valves, so descending straight down on the head is critical and the guide pins for doing this (another special tool) are absolutely critical - at least for me. I could not find a way to get the harness completely disconnected, so it was always hanging in the way across the back of the engine compartment. Get the two special guide bolts for this process.

-Also, for reinstalling the camshaft cover I made a set of 1" x 1.5" x 16" wooden rails that I put on the outside edges of the cylinder head as a pair of skid rails. I could then slide the cam cover over the head and into the right position for lowering without bumping rocker arms off their valves.

- The timing belt tensioner was a little difficult for me to understand how to to reinstall correctly until i looked at the picture in the assembly procedure that is described in this forum. A picture is worth a thousand words.

- The fuel return block has 4 hoses going to it. I broke the nipple off of the one connection that the little braided injector return hose goes to. I would recommend not disconnecting any hoses to this block. pull the returns off the top of the injectors, unbolt the block from the intake manifold and tie it aside. The fuel return block (manifold) is a little black plastic thing that is $114 from the dealer. I ended up repairing mine with a line repair hose barb from home depot and it is now very robust.

Other than that, the only issue I have is a fuel leak from one injector. I got it running, noticed the leak and will deal with that today. After that, the jeep is fixed.

racertracer · **Posted:** Sat Dec 17, 2011 10:28 am

I commend you on a getting her back together, good job. What parts were replaced and how much did the repair cost.

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Sat Dec 17, 2011 11:26 am

Ya those rockers are a bear to make sure they stay on, seems like the smallest touch and they slide off.

Dabincharlotte · **Joined:** Tue Nov 29, 2011 12:55 pm **Posts:** 10

I had a graduation to go to today, so just got back on the Jeep in the hopes of buttoning up the fuel leak. I found where the leak was coming from and found another problem.

The fuel leak seems to be coming from the fuel return connector on top of the injector. It seems to be seated correctly, and when i took it off, it appeared the rubber gasket ring inside it was there. The gasket ring didn't seem very supple or rubbery, but while troubleshooting, another problem popped up.

There seemed to be a compression leak coming up from number two injector, and when I took it out, it looked like the copper washer was missing. I looked down in the cam cover and it was laying next to the opening. So... I am not sure if it slid off when I removed it just now to inspect, or if it dropped off during the reassembly.

Lastly, the O ring on the barrel of the injector #2 was broken. I need a new one. Before I go off hunting one, does anyone have a tip on obtaining these O rings? I would also like to pick up 4 of the sealing gasket rings for the top of the injector. Has anyone ever sourced them before?

And - to answer the recent question about cost, all the parts ran to just about $1,000. I got 16 new rockers (actually 17 - one of my lifters had come apart and i had to get another rocker\lifter assembly from the dealer for $75). I bought the lifters from a nice guy on the forum for $39 each. I also bought a new timing belt. No new water pump thermostat or other "optional" items. I felt like i didn't want to spend an additional $1,000 in parts only to find I punched a hole in a piston.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sat Dec 17, 2011 5:37 pm

Check the parts manuals linked off Sams NOOB guide. I just looked at them a day or two ago for a forum member who had a similar leak and found the parts with part #s. Did not check price but shouldn't be much.

Dabincharlotte · **Joined:** Tue Nov 29, 2011 12:55 pm **Posts:** 10

I found 05069135AB for the injector tube O ring and 05072722AA for the "Bottom O Ring" (crush washer?), but i couldnt find that Jeep lists the little gasket on the top of the injector as a separate item...

CRD Broken Timing Belt Damage

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