Working on Timing Belt Change

ChesterCRD · **Posted:** Sat Jan 07, 2012 1:05 pm

I'm stuck getting the engine damper off. I removed the four 10mm screws, but it's still on there tight. Suggestions welcome. All the guides I've read say a puller isn't necessary. I'm not sure what's holding it on there.

ChesterCRD · **Posted:** Sat Jan 07, 2012 1:22 pm

N/M. I found a good picture of it detached on ebay. I was thinking maybe the center nut needed to come off also, but no idea how I'd remove that.

Application of the air hammer along the pulley took it off easily.

ChesterCRD · **Posted:** Sat Jan 07, 2012 5:42 pm

Thanks to ChileanKJ, Sir Sam, and Green Diesel Engineering for the great write-ups. The process went smoothly and took me about 6 hours. My old timing belt looked pretty good in my opinion. My serpentine belt was in pretty bad shape though.

The Lisle air hammer tool did not work well for me on the fan removal. That was the worst part of the job. I ended up using a 10mm 1/4 inch drive deep socket (long enough to work, short enough to get past the fan) to get on the bolt in the 3 o'clock position and hold the fan idler. I added some wooden door shims between the socket and fan blade to keep the socket from sliding off the bolt and smacked my Lisle tool with a small sledge. This broke the nut loose after about a dozen whacks.

Other than that and my confusion with the engine dampener removal it was a very smooth process.

Thanks again for all the great write-ups.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sat Jan 07, 2012 6:01 pm

Lisle fan tool with impact wrench worked fine for me but the serp belt wasn't quite enough to keep the fan pulley from slipping so geordi wedged a 16" screwdriver down in one of the slots on the fan pulley and that was plenty to hold it in place. 5 min to figure that out, 30 seconds to have fan nut loose.

Would I buy the Lisle tool again though, probably not if I could make turbobill's holder tool (viewtopic.php?f=5&t=64152), but since I own it I'll keep it.

6 hrs. is about right for just the TB job, no water pump, if you don't have to spend too much time on the fan nut.

Glad to hear it went well.

Hoosier CRD · **Posted:** Sat Jan 07, 2012 6:56 pm

I'm collecting parts currently for my upcoming TB change; My CRD is at 97K currently. Glad to know about what you went through and how to work around it. This forum is good like that-you can find helpful insight at most every turn.

Hoosier CRD

ChesterCRD · **Posted:** Sat Jan 07, 2012 9:14 pm

papaindigo wrote:

Lisle fan tool with impact wrench worked fine for me but the serp belt wasn't quite enough to keep the fan pulley from slipping so geordi wedged a 16" screwdriver down in one of the slots on the fan pulley and that was plenty to hold it in place. 5 min to figure that out, 30 seconds to have fan nut loose.

Would I buy the Lisle tool again though, probably not if I could make turbobill's holder tool (viewtopic.php?f=5&t=64152), but since I own it I'll keep it.

6 hrs. is about right for just the TB job, no water pump, if you don't have to spend too much time on the fan nut.

Glad to hear it went well.

I actually have a pry tool that's pretty close to TurboBill's tool. With another set of hands to hold it I might have been able to break the nut loose with the Lisle tool. A notch on the end of it would have made it perfect for this and I would have gone there if the socket procedure hadn't been enough. I think my old belt was just too worn to hold the fan pulley. It slid very easily even with extra pressure on the tensioner. I used the Lisle tool to tighten up the nut and my new belt held that fine.

ChesterCRD · **Posted:** Sat Jan 07, 2012 9:19 pm

Hoosier CRD wrote:

I'm collecting parts currently for my upcoming TB change; My CRD is at 97K currently. Glad to know about what you went through and how to work around it. This forum is good like that-you can find helpful insight at most every turn.

Hoosier CRD

Look at Sir Sam's guide for notes about getting the timing belt on. His note about turning the crank one slot CCW to get the correct number of ridges between the injection pump and the crank is a gem. Worked perfect.

I used some wooden door wedges to hold the timing belt on each pulley as I worked my way around. This kept the belt nice and tight and made things simpler for me.

Also note the serpentine idler pulleys are reverse thread. I almost screwed that up.

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Sat Jan 07, 2012 9:30 pm

ChesterCRD wrote:

Hoosier CRD wrote:

I'm collecting parts currently for my upcoming TB change; My CRD is at 97K currently. Glad to know about what you went through and how to work around it. This forum is good like that-you can find helpful insight at most every turn.

Hoosier CRD

Look at Sir Sam's guide for notes about getting the timing belt on. His note about turning the crank one slot CCW to get the correct number of ridges between the injection pump and the crank is a gem. Worked perfect.

Glad to hear that worked for someone, its one of those little tricks I figured out early on that makes the whole process much easier.

geordi · **Posted:** Sun Jan 08, 2012 3:38 am

I don't know about counting the number of ridges Sam, but I did the same thing about slipping the crank just a half-notch ccw to grab the belt from the fuel pump side and tighten from there. It's a good trick b/c apparently the old belt adds that half-a-notch during its life.

Another important tip: if you find that getting the belt over the last pulley isn't happening the way you want it... DON'T PULL THE TENSIONER to try and slip it back in and then re-insert that bolt! Use the idler pulley above the tensioner. The tensioner should NEVER be removed unless you are replacing it. There is a helicoil in that hole, and the bolt MUST be put in perfectly straight or the helicoil and hole will suffer... And then your engine may be wrecked when the timing jumps.

The idler pulley above will work fine for that old mechanics trick... That one is a normal bolt hole, just reverse thread.

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Sun Jan 08, 2012 4:44 pm

geordi wrote:

I don't know about counting the number of ridges Sam

Me either, thats why I never said anything about counting them, only turn the crank back CCW to get it to catch, and then forward again to make it tight.

geordi · **Posted:** Sun Jan 08, 2012 7:24 pm

ChesterCRD wrote:

Look at Sir Sam's guide ... His note about turning the crank one slot CCW to get the correct number of ridges between the injection pump and the crank is a gem. Worked perfect. ...

Sam, that comment is where I got that idea - Maybe Chester read it wrong, I don't know. But I did the same as you then, just to get it to catch and hold snug.

ChesterCRD · **Posted:** Sun Jan 08, 2012 8:18 pm

geordi wrote:

ChesterCRD wrote:

Look at Sir Sam's guide ... His note about turning the crank one slot CCW to get the correct number of ridges between the injection pump and the crank is a gem. Worked perfect. ...

Sam, that comment is where I got that idea - Maybe Chester read it wrong, I don't know. But I did the same as you then, just to get it to catch and hold snug.

Yeah, I guess I phrased that poorly. I didn't count ridges. I marked the crank and turned CCW almost one ridge to get the belt on then used the crank pulley to pull enough slack in the belt to get the belt over the tensioner, roughly half a ridge CW past my mark. When I let go and tensioned the belt everything was lined up perfectly. Then I went through the rotation tests. Two cycles of the crank to line the cams back up, three cycles of the crank to line the injection pump back up. Six cycles of the crank and everything was back to its original position.

geordi · **Posted:** Mon Jan 09, 2012 1:33 am

Wow, you went all the way to 6 to check the fuel pump and the original marks? I'm impressed.

I marked the fuel pump sprockets on both engines I've done, and figured that since I didn't know exactly how to start the timing on them, that I wasn't gonna move them from where they were - It drove in to the timing job, it was gonna drive out the same way.

As far as the cams and the crank - That is where the timing REALLY matters. I'm a little dubious about the ultimate significance of the fuel pump timing anyway, the whole point is to pressurize the entire rail to a high number so there is fuel ready to spray anytime the injector is commanded to open. The ultimate pressure in the rail shouldn't vary that much with each injection event, right? I'll admit that I haven't concentrated a lot of brainpower on the CP3 and its operation in this application. It works, that is about as far as I've thought so far. Others have said it is important, so I'm happy to err on the side of caution and just not change anything.

ChesterCRD · **Posted:** Mon Jan 09, 2012 8:36 am

geordi wrote:

Wow, you went all the way to 6 to check the fuel pump and the original marks? I'm impressed.

Hahaha, yeah, the job scared me a little. I was thinking it can't hurt to be sure the injection pump timing is as it was. I ended up doing the rotation test twice. I noticed after the first time through that my tensioner had slipped a little so I backed it off, retensioned, retorqued it, and went through six more turns. It's tedious, but I wanted to be sure about it.

Working on Timing Belt Change

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