This thread has now been superceded by viewtopic.php?f=5&t=54207 . It is much more complete and detailed.



The purpose of this thread is to compile information that comes up often from new CRD owners and those considering a CRD purchase that have some questions. I will address as much as I can think of, but I'm sure others will be able to add more information to this thread.

The CRD is a great engine in a small 4x4 SUV. You will not find a better combination of torque, off-road-ability, and economy short of importing a diesel Land Rover Defender - and those don't have A/C. However, the platform application in the US and Canada left a little to be desired.

First is the combination of Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) and Closed Crankcase Ventilation. (CCV) These are EPA-required (not sure of Canada's governing body) emissions components on all passenger vehicles sold for highway use in the United States. The EGR directs a percentage of exhaust gases into the intake to be combusted. Unfortunately, diesel exhaust produces soot, and that soot ends up in the intake of your engine. Ever busted a toner cartridge? Yeah, like that, but worse.
Here is a good pic of soot in an actual EGR valve (thx DZL_LOU and DarbyWalters):

Here is picture of an important sensor, called the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) from the intake tract of a CRD, the way it SHOULD look (thx old navy and DarbyWalters):

Here is that same sensor coated in soot from the EGR (thx chispitude):


The CCV is another component that allows gases from the crankcase to escape the engine and go into the intake for combustion. In most situations, there would be no problem with this, vehicles have had these since the late 60's. However, the "puck" on the top of our engines that allows the gases out also allows engine oil out in a condensate, or mist, form. That oil collects in the intercooler hoses and degrades them over time, and, worst of all, combines with the soot from the EGR to produce a sludgey, tar-like substance that coats the intake tract, sapping performance and triggering Check Engine Lights. (CEL)
Here is picture of the same sensor above coated in oil from the CCV (thx 0311_DoC):


This combination of EGR soot and CCV oil is the root cause of probably 75% of owner maintenance/ repair issues with the Jeep Liberty CRD, and those issues can be solved with a few simple actions.

First things first, unplug the MAF sensor to disable the EGR and stop the flow of exhaust (read: soot) into the intake. (Link here: viewtopic.php?f=98&t=22631 ) It will cause a Check Engine Light, but it is a good temporary fix until you can make a decision on a GDE tune, other tune, or SEGR, which diminish or negate EGR recirculation. As stated, soot in the intake of a diesel is BAD.

Next, install an Elephant Hose (or Provent) to stop oil mist flowing into your turbo and intake tract. (Link here: viewtopic.php?f=98&t=22703 ) As stated above, mix that oil with soot from the exhaust, (EGR) and you get sludge in the intake. It builds up, restricting the flow of air and affecting the MAP sensor reading, which is next.

Clean the MAP sensor with chlorine-free brake parts cleaner. Link here: ( viewtopic.php?f=98&t=22630 ) Make sure you do not lose the small washer on the bolt.

So now, you've spent 30 minutes, and little to no money, and you will have a much more responsive and economical machine. Get out on the Interstate and run it hard to clear the cat of any soot buildup, and to enjoy the power. Now it's money time. . .

If you are a new owner, order a test kit from Blackstone or another oil analysis lab, drain the oil and catch a sample to send off to find out about any possible abnormal engine wear. Refill with a quality 5W-40 SYNTHETIC diesel-rated oil (such as Mobil 1 Turbodiesel Truck or Shell Rotella T) and replace the oil filter with a quality filter such as Wix or Purolator Pure One. (Unless you have solid records from the previous owner/ dealer that indicate this is not necessary) Replace the drain plug with a Fumoto valve, this will make oil changes infinitely easier and prevent you from damaging the threads on the cast aluminum oil pan. Link here: ( http://lubricationspecialist.com/front/ ... roductid=5 ) Greg with Lubrication Specialist is a LOST member.

After these simple things, the world is your oyster. Spend some time surfing LOST, and you will find a wealth of information about the various options for the GDE tune, SEGR, Provent, exhaust mods, lifts, etc. Most members have their mods in their signature line, if you have a question, PM them and 99/100 times you will get a positive, informative response. After about a month or so of regular visits and reading, you will become familiar with common issues and fixes discussed here on the board.

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In this war of lines, so many have been crossed. Where will it all stop?

2006 Deep Beryl Green CRD Sport *SOLD 1/22/12*
Provent, V6 Airbox, Fumoto, Samcos, GDE ECO & TCM Tune, Euro JK TC, Magnaflow Catback
245/70/16 Destination A/T's
Boiler's Radiator Skid Plate
Jeepin' By Al 2.5 inch Adjust-A-Strut Lift, JBA Gen 4.5 UCA's (6/5/10)

Great post, we should have done that years ago!

I would like to add the fuel filter mod, some CRD's went up in flames because of a malfunction on the stock ones.

You may experience poor starting due to air in your fuel system and a melt down of the fuel heater connector.

http://www.auerbach.ca/kj/racor/

And a lift pump install

http://www.auerbach.ca/kj/lift_pump/

http://www.auerbach.ca/kj/

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Cherokee 2,5 CRD: sold - Wrangler TJ 2.5: gone - Touareg V10 TDI: new toy

Solo Liberty en Español: Jeepliberty.es

That's the clearest explanation yet Tony. Well done.

Add these:

Alternator pulley - officially called a decoupler. Because this is a rattly 4 cylinder diesel, the pulley is not solid. In fact, it is critical that it is not solid. Symptoms: When you hear an odd rattle & chirp at idle, it is likely a bad alternator pulley. If you see a reddish dust it, it is definitely replacement time. This will often be accompanied by an idler pulley bouncing around a lot.
The 05 is especially vulnerable to this issue. Here's a writeup I did on that issue: http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=39287

Weak viscous fan clutch. These often look fine when you test by trying to spin it by hand. I spent weeks trying to figure this out - as have many others. Others have slightly different symptoms but mine was: Warm weather, slow, long uphill - and the gauge would go up to 3/4 & sometimes even peg. Again, an issue on the 05.

Very difficult to remove air in the lines after filter change - and sometimes air in lines form due to poorly designed fuel line connectors. Solution: Lift pump: I did a write up on install of a Kennedy lift pump for those who want to go that route. http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=98&t=39362

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2005 CRD Limited:
* 245/70/16 Nokian Vatiiva
* Magnaflow
* Kennedy Diesel lift pump
* Custom CCV condensor
* Custom modified thermostat housing w/bleeder valve

2006 CRD Limited (wife's)
* Bone stock

Great information here. When I bought mine, I had a Provent set up within a day amongst other things...thanks guys!

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05 Silver Liberty CRD, Provent, 3in Flowmaster cat back, Toyo Open Country A/T's, EGT, Boost.

What is ORM referring to?

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05 CRD Sport
01 Dodge QC CTD
Ford New Holland 555E BH
Massy 1010
8 KW DI Diesel Gen set
My beloved oil hammers....

ORM = Off Road Modification

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

let me know if any of you need a service manual or your KJ ,TJ or WK ill do what i can to send it to you

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05 2.8L,rustys 2.5" lift,GDE TCM/ECM

has anyone had any trans trouble since we got ours it shifts hard from 2nd to 3rd when its cold its worse but once warmed up it calms down. its the only gear that it does it in. also any performance mods/suggestions. straight exhaust good idea? i have done this on several of my dodges not sure how an 05 jeep will react.

I have a strait through exhaust sans the cat with an aero turbine muffler. Drone is minimal as compared with straight through exhaust without muffler. Not real sure what performance gains I got but Im a believer that every little bit helps.

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JUST BECAUSE YOU CAN OR WILL DOES NOT MEAN YOU SHOULD!