I have this 05 CRD 95k. It is all stock. code 0299 pops up, I can clear it, it will stay off. I can drive it for miles, 100+, if I shut the vehicle off and start it, it comes back. I don't feel like there is any issues with the drive ability. I am unsure if it feels slow or low on power, I am new to these vehicles and have nothing to compare it too.

There are no other codes, no MAF code etc. I haven't gotten around to cleaning the MAF myself, however previous owner cleaned it out prior. (I know, I plan on checking myself when I get some time, until then the vehicle is sitting, its my extra vehicle)

Thinking of starting with some vac lines etc. I really havent had the hood open for more than 2 mins since I bought it. I have 550 miles on it since purchase. I may get around to it this weekend. Any quick items I should check?

Thank you.

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If you search for P0299 you'll find a lot of information. This thread covers a number of causes: viewtopic.php?f=5&t=61240

One common item: the hoses from turbo to intercooler, or from intercooler to FCV, get saturated with oil (the original hoses, anyway) and begin to split.

Second common item if yours is still stock, w/9X k-miles, is the air flow control valve (FCV) that the hose from the intercooler connects to as it reaches the engine. That puppy and the EGR are a common fail item. The gears driving the plate that controls airflow get jammed as the valve becomes goobered up with soot and oil. Consider SEGR or GDE tune to reduce your expenditures on FCV/EGR replacements. I replaced the pair at 30k on ours, and it cost $800 for the dealer to do it; never again!

Third item: Check and clean the MAF and MAP sensors as they provide input that the engine computer uses to drive the variable vane turbo, FCV, EGR, etc.

Fourth item: The variable vane turbo can get stuck - carbon build up. One cure for that is to drive it like you stole it every week or so... ; ' ) I think there's a thread somewhere that describes how to loosen up the vacuum controlled mechanism that controls the vanes.

Last item (you will find it in the thread I included a link to): check the vacuum hoses that feed the gizmo on top of the turbo. In one case, the hose was melted and prevented vacuum from reaching the controller on the turbo.

If I were a betting person - I'd say the odds are between a leaking hose and a failing FCV. You might be able to detect (hear) air whooshing out the cracks in the hoses if you lift the hood and have someone rev it a bit. When they go, the hoses tend to split along the bottom and can he rather hard to spot.

That list will get you started.. ; ' )

Mark

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2005 Liberty CRD
2004.5 Cummins 5.9L TD, F1s, NV5600 6-speed in a '93 GMC Suburban

If you are that new to the vehicle you may not know what acceleration is "supposed" to feel like and given that code I suspect you are not getting the full benefit of the turbo. So question: when you stomp on the throttle do you get, after a slight hesitation (fraction of a second), a significant (like close to spin tires significant), surge of power? If not you are not getting the full benefit of the turbo.

The link and suggestions provided are good ones but I'd also add to check your boost pressure solenoid function. Per GDE's writeup for this "By-passing of the on/off solenoid is very straight forward. Trace the vacuum line output from the black plastic reservoir (behind the air filter box) to the input of the on/off solenoid. Remove this vacuum line and plug it directly into the turbo EVM on the port labeled "VAC". The turbo EVM is the one with the blue rubber isolator and vacuum line running directly to turbo." If this produces an improvement in performance then replace the solenoid and put the lines back where they were. If you want a picture drop me an email, not a PM. There is a post somewhere here with the picture but I cannot find it and did not save the link.

FYI the only way to check the turbo>intercooler>engine hoses is to take them off the vehicle; remove the woven mesh cover; and look for holes/splits typically on the bottom of the hose. If found better OEM replacements are available but lots of us prefer Samcos which can be obtained from Boost Controller (http://boostcontroller.com/index.php?category=328). While you have the turbo>intercooler hose off take a close look at the air filter box to turbo hose for a split on the bottom just in front of the turbo where the CCV dumps oil; if split an OEM replacement runs $60 or so from a dealer.

As a new owner if you have not already done so read Sam's NOOB guide and download copies of the FSM and parts manuals. On the FSM get both 05 and 06 copies; 05 lacks diesel cooling data, diagnostics but has illustration keys, 06 is the reverse.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

As an update, I finally got around to spending an evening tinkering. The results =

I started off by inspecting both the FMIC hoses. I suspected they were fine but removed them and looked them over anyways. They were. The FCV was all oily, but open. On the note of the FCV I always felt like the engine shut off a "bit rough" based on everything I read about the FCV and its function. I was never worried, I just assumed the FCV wasn't doing its job. More on that later.

I noticed where the end tank of the FMIC meets the core on the hot side was a bit oily. Makes me wonder if there is a leak there.
Some day, after I do an EHM of a sort and feel like cleaning everything out I will inspect, until then it is what it is.



I ended up pulling the MAP.



Cleaned it up, took all of 2 mins.



Also bled the fuel filter. Had no reason to believe it needed it, but figured I was playing around I'd spend the time. I also noticed one of the plugs was "modified" at some point by a previous owner/mechanic. Is this the connector that tends to "overheat"? I wonder if this was fuel head was replaced at some point?



Last night I spent quite some time, browsing all 540 posts of MrMopar64. I learned a lot! I am like a sponge at the moment, trying to take everything I can in. While browsing his posts, all 27 pages of them I found it mentioned to bypass the EVM and it made me think about papaindingo's posts. In the post/topic MrMopar64 commented about he bet it would be the EVM, few posts later the OP commented how the bypass solved his issue and his CEL.

Anyways. I spent all day wrenching worked on 2 of my cars, my truck and Jeep last. I really wasnt paying attention and "thought" I bypassed the EVM properly.

I took the Jeep for a spin. Immediately I noticed more power. I thought, was it the MAP clean or the "bypass"? Put about 5 miles on it and the CEL came on. Then I had no power and it was like in a limp mode, took FOREVER to get up to 65mph back home.

Got home checked the codes,
234 - Overboost
299 - Air and fuel error
102 - Mass and volume air flow ciruit low.

Realized what I did wrong, I put it back to "stock" and took it for a spin just to see if it was back to the way it was. Nope, it still felt peppier, There was a slight delay then kick in power. It felt good! After a few more miles the CEL came on. 299 again. No limp mode. That made me believe the extra power came from cleaning the MAP, yet still a failed EVM.

This time I bypassed the EVM "differently" I am still unsure if this is the way you described it, but it "made sense in my head"

Put 25 miles or so on it, gave it "good solid" runs, stop and go, mash the pedal etc. No CEL. Felt much better, more power and no P0299. So looks like I need a new EVM. From what I read online it's only about $30 for the part (unless that too has gone up in price) Also after this drive session I noticed the engine shuts off a lot more smoothly, not rough AT ALL. I am curious to why its smoother now, I didnt really "do" anything to the FCV. I am curious, does the EVM or MAP play any part in the operation of the FCV?

I have a "non F37" TCM sitting here. I will probably toss that in tomorrow now that the CEL is gone and see how it does. I have a pretty good list of goodies to acquire, including TC, PML pan, shift kit. Maybe new pump, who knows, the list of "wants" grows longer as the days go by it seems. Approaching the 100k mark so the service parts are at the top of the list.

Just glad to have this darn CEL off. Now to fix the stripped oil drain plug.

Update 1: Light came back on last night

Update 2: And after a long, about 10 hrs wrenchin on all the cars yesterday, this afternoon I popped the hood and saw my mistake within a matter of seconds. First go around I bypassed the vac reservoir, modulator and solenoid all at once. 2nd go around I just bypassed the reservoir thinking it was the modulator. I have now bypassed the modulator and am gonna take this beast for a spin.

Update 3: Put a solid 30 miles on it this afternoon, lots of stop and go. Shut the vehicle off 6-7 times. Lots of WOT. Lots of cruise. No CEL, no P0299. I am convinced its now bypassed and the issue is gone. Unfortunately the price has increased.

52109543AA - Modulator 2.8 LITER DIESEL
MSRP Core Online Price
$87.95 $0.00 $68.60

Off to install this non F37 TCM

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