Thought I could squeak by... (timing belt)

msilbernagel · **Posted:** Tue Feb 28, 2012 3:26 am

This is my "Grand-distraction", and why the timing belt will happen tomorrow... :-)r

I had Grandpa duty today, and her dolly arrived as compensation for pain and suffering endured during those allergy scratch tests (etc) and also the lotion she has to use to treat her skin (stings). She thought the trade was a fair deal - at least, she's satisfied here! You may also note what's left of her earlier application of lipstick! :wink:

It was, I think, a fair trade for today's schedule.

msilbernagel · **Posted:** Tue Feb 28, 2012 3:58 am

For high-pressure fuel lines, a 17mm crow's foot on the torque wrench reaches all but the collar on the #4 injector (all most got it!).

msilbernagel · **Posted:** Wed Feb 29, 2012 2:13 am

Well, I'm back to the 'timing belt' part of the job. Started (today) with re-installing the rear timing belt cover, then new idlers, tensioner, and belt. Marked the cam gears with the yellow paint right where they almost touch, to make timing check a little easier:

Next, installed the belt and set the tensioner to the center notch (I have a separate post asking about this, as some examples [e.g. GDE] show center-notch while the Service Manual shows left edge...) - I've since moved to the edge to match the SM. Here's just after belt install and setting tension:

Here's after six revolutions - you can see there's a little bit of stretching, but not much. After twelve, it was the same as at six. The camshaft alignment pins and the crank alignment pin fit at 0, 6, and 12 (good news, yes?):

Here's where I've moved it to match the SM:

Some seem to be saying that the alignment mark on the high-pressure fuel pump doesn't matter. The SM says it turns 1:1 with the engine.. Others seem to think that the timing mark is there to keep the pulses from the pump in the right (or away from the wrong) spot in the engine's injection cycle/timing:

Time to start buttoning things up!

mtgstuber · **Joined:** Tue Sep 13, 2011 4:15 pm **Posts:** 66

Mark,
Do you have a part number list for the other stuff you bought to finish doing the top end?
Right now all I think I need:

Valve Cover Gasket 5066786AA
Air Intake Elbow Gasket 5066946AA (Yes, I took the elbow off the cover before taking the cylinder cover off).

But I'm wondering about two things:

Did you replace the injector o-rings? (copper one at the tip, and rubber one 1/3 way up)
Did you replace the cover bolts, or reuse the old ones?

Anything I'm missing?

mtgstuber · **Joined:** Tue Sep 13, 2011 4:15 pm **Posts:** 66

Does the gates lower radiator hose come with the protective sleeve and the internal spring that the original has?

msilbernagel · **Posted:** Thu Mar 01, 2012 2:57 am

mtgstuber wrote:

Mark,
Do you have a part number list for the other stuff you bought to finish doing the top end?
Right now all I think I need:

Valve Cover Gasket 5066786AA
Air Intake Elbow Gasket 5066946AA (Yes, I took the elbow off the cover before taking the cylinder cover off).

But I'm wondering about two things:

Did you replace the injector o-rings? (copper one at the tip, and rubber one 1/3 way up)
Did you replace the cover bolts, or reuse the old ones?

Anything I'm missing?

Yes on the o-rings. I initially found them online but they couldn't deliver. Ended up down at the local dealer just to get'er done. By the time shipping is added it wasn't too far off:

4 O RING. Engine Oil Indicator Tube. 05083157AA $1.20
4 GASKET, O RING, SEAL. Lower, Upper. Fuel Injector. . Bottom.. 05072722AA $3.50

FSM said to dip the engine cover bolts in oil when re-using, so I did.

Got the rockers and lifters from 'Wobbly'.

Picked up a tube of high-temp silicone to re-seal the tube from the EGR to FCV where at attaches to the bottom of the FCV; essentially replacing what the dealer service dept had done during their 30k replacement of those two parts.

Used anti-seize (Permatex) on the injectors prior to re-installing, again per FSM. Given the joy pulling them - this is probably a good thing... ; ' )

Make sure you have a plan to get the cover down onto the rockers without disturbing them. Those Miller pins are highly recommended. I saw where someone else had laid a 1/2" square piece of wood (maybe 1", just saw the pic) along each side of the head from front to rear so that the cover could be laid on it and slid backwards until it was lined up - and then the two wood rails pulled out to drop the cover. Whatever you do - you don't want to knock the rockers off...

Used assembly lube (permatex - Amazon) on the lifters/rockers/cam surfaces to avoid a dry start.

Other than that - goes back together rather simply.

Mark

galatron · **Posted:** Fri Mar 02, 2012 2:20 pm

turbobill and I used blocks of wood about the length of the valve cover and twisted them out once the cover was in place. turbobill made these locator pins that went into the head and helped id exactly where the valve cover was to drop in place. it made it real easy!
hope your's starts. mine does not at this time. i'm waiting for the official pins to show up just in case we were off by a bit.

msilbernagel · **Posted:** Fri Mar 02, 2012 2:35 pm

mtgstuber wrote:

Does the gates lower radiator hose come with the protective sleeve and the internal spring that the original has?

No, but I was easily able to transfer both from the old to new. No signs of corrosion on the internal spring, and it popped right out. Used a string to help pull it into the new hose.

The braided cover is held in place by a couple of really wide (2"?) rubber bands - so it's easy to move too.

Mark

msilbernagel · **Posted:** Fri Mar 02, 2012 2:39 pm

galatron wrote:

turbobill and I used blocks of wood about the length of the valve cover and twisted them out once the cover was in place. turbobill made these locator pins that went into the head and helped id exactly where the valve cover was to drop in place. it made it real easy!
hope your's starts. mine does not at this time. i'm waiting for the official pins to show up just in case we were off by a bit.

Thanks - I hope whatever's keeping yours from starting is easily fixed!

Makes a fellow a little nervous at the thought of having to open the patient back up for a second surgery.. :5SHOTS:

GreenDieselEngineering · **Joined:** Sun Jun 07, 2009 5:10 pm **Posts:** 1111

Mark,

Did you ship the timing tools back already? If not, can you ship them directly to galatron?
It would save a few days in transit. Thanks, GDE

msilbernagel · **Posted:** Fri Mar 02, 2012 3:59 pm

GreenDieselEngineering wrote:

Mark,

Did you ship the timing tools back already? If not, can you ship them directly to galatron?
It would save a few days in transit. Thanks, GDE

If you or he would PM or e-mail me the address I'll ship them however you'd like. USPS is pretty quick.

Mark

Kursk · **Joined:** Wed Nov 02, 2011 11:53 pm **Posts:** 8

I'm in the process of doing the same (2006 Jeep Liberty 2.8l). Have three broken rockers. I'm going to replace all of them.

I have a question on the transmission dipstick for you all. I am trying to remove the bolt that holds it in place so I can completely clear it out of the way for the re-installation of the cylinder head. I used a LONG 9/16" box end wrench and was able to break the bolt free. Since I can't actually reach the bolt with my fingers I know I'll never get it back in. My question is: Does this bolt attach to the back of the head at a random attachment point or is it a transmission attachment bolt? It was very hard to break free so I assume it was torqued pretty tight for some reason...

Few other questions that might help others:

I replaced the timing belt and water pump at 140,000 (I know, I was lucky). At 144,000 the water pump shaft broke (my luck failed on that one!) which in turn caused the belt to slip and break the rockers. When I drained the radiator I noticed metal filings in the fluid (see pic). Do I need to flush out the engine/radiator or will all of the loose metal filings, which I assume came from the innards of the broken water pump, just settle to the bottom of the radiator, or wherever else they may be hiding?

Another question: How do you remove the oily junk from the EGR tube/elbow(see pic)?

Thanks in advance and good luck to you all!

Kursk · **Joined:** Wed Nov 02, 2011 11:53 pm **Posts:** 8

Just wanted to share my latest... Made two pseudo vm.1066 valve cover alignment pins using two bolts from my broken water pump (it's memory lives on). Cut the heads off and took some pictures. Still need to clean them up a little but think they'll do the job.

msilbernagel · **Posted:** Sun Mar 11, 2012 8:02 pm

On the dipstick.. I just wrapped it with a nylon strap and put tension on it to pull it out of the way. When I was putting the engine cover on I had my son push on it with a stick to hold it up against the firewall - keeping it far enough I could get the cover on without hitting it. So - it can be done leaving the dipstick in place.

As for the tools - be careful. I'd rent the tools from GDE. It only costs $30 as they refund the $100 difference once they're returned. The cost of being off by a tooth more than made it worthwhile to me. YMMV...

I'd get the complete set of rockers/lifters from wobbly - he's probably got a set for sale in the other forum for sales. If not, just PM.

Flushing sounds like a good idea - though I don't think it's critical.

Don't worry about the crud - if you either get the GDE tune for your ECM, or the SEGR, it'll take care of itself in time. Mine looked cleaner at 165k, after 130k of SEGR living.

Mark

CATCRD · **Posted:** Sun Mar 11, 2012 8:09 pm

Kursk wrote:

Another question: How do you remove the oily junk from the EGR tube/elbow(see pic)?

Thanks in advance and good luck to you all!

I would take that elbow out of the engine bay and hit it with some engine degreaser and a wire brush. Wear some gloves though, it's like asphalt. I did that to mine when I saw it looked just like yours. I'd estimate it's 30% blocked.

Roostre · **Joined:** Sun Oct 24, 2010 3:57 pm **Posts:** 195

You could try the TDI fire cleaning method... be sure to have a few extinguishers handy:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3vOCwB2onGQ

Wobbly · **Posted:** Sun Mar 11, 2012 9:54 pm

Kursk wrote:

I'm in the process of doing the same (2006 Jeep Liberty 2.8l). Have three broken rockers. I'm going to replace all of them.

I have a question on the transmission dipstick for you all. I am trying to remove the bolt that holds it in place so I can completely clear it out of the way for the re-installation of the cylinder head. I used a LONG 9/16" box end wrench and was able to break the bolt free. Since I can't actually reach the bolt with my fingers I know I'll never get it back in. My question is: Does this bolt attach to the back of the head at a random attachment point or is it a transmission attachment bolt? It was very hard to break free so I assume it was torqued pretty tight for some reason...

Few other questions that might help others:

I replaced the timing belt and water pump at 140,000 (I know, I was lucky). At 144,000 the water pump shaft broke (my luck failed on that one!) which in turn caused the belt to slip and break the rockers. When I drained the radiator I noticed metal filings in the fluid (see pic). Do I need to flush out the engine/radiator or will all of the loose metal filings, which I assume came from the innards of the broken water pump, just settle to the bottom of the radiator, or wherever else they may be hiding?

Another question: How do you remove the oily junk from the EGR tube/elbow(see pic)?

Thanks in advance and good luck to you all!

CRC Technician Grade Gasket Remover, or CRC Brake Cleaner (red can-not green) and a brush

or the redneck method: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oet4qWeZuYA

Kursk · **Joined:** Wed Nov 02, 2011 11:53 pm **Posts:** 8

msilbernagel - I tried moving the dipstick and tying it back but it don't move. I tried bending it out of the way - not a good idea. Still would like to get some info on the bolt holding it in place as per my question on this post.

Has anyone used the Valvoline EGR+ cleaner for removal of the gunk? I'm a Red Green fan but fire just ain't my thing... Thanks for the laugh though.

Once I get it all back together would seafoam work for cleaning up the mess in the EGR system?

Also, is it safe to use the rockers that are in the vehicle? Seems like if three broke the others may have gone under undo stresses that would shorten their life. I don't want to put it all back together to have more break five minutes down the road! msilbernagel - did you replace all of yours? Have you started the engine yet and run it any distance??? Anyone else want to comment on this?

Thanks again

msilbernagel · **Posted:** Mon Mar 12, 2012 2:17 am

Yes, I replaced all of mine (rockers/lifters).

No, I've paused at the point of putting the fan back on - I noticed that the bearing on the fan bracket (524923066353) was gritty/noisy, so I ordered one. It shipped Thurs/Fri last week and tracking says it arrives tomorrow. AFIK, that's all that I'm waiting for/needing to finish and fire it up - so I'm planning on driving her this week!

Mark

fastRob · **Posted:** Mon Mar 12, 2012 7:41 am

Thanks for sharing.
Good luck.
Enjoy the kids!!!

Thought I could squeak by... (timing belt)

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