help..need new engine..

steelhorse · **Joined:** Sun Sep 04, 2011 7:24 pm **Posts:** 16

we'll looks like i need an engine..seems to have lost power..has blow-by spitting oil out of the oil filter cap..so who can point me to were i can but rebuild kit ..short block..good used engine ???

galatron · **Posted:** Tue Apr 17, 2012 5:17 pm

dang bud, not so fast!
you know these engines are sleeved right? worst case drop new sleeves, o rings, and piston rings in there, service the lifters, and inspect rockers for damage, you'll probably be good if you didn't damage the piston and main bearings in my top end rebuild I spent about 15-20 hours on the job as a newbie, and the head isn't that much further in.

msilbernagel · **Posted:** Tue Apr 17, 2012 5:30 pm

Is that an experienced mechanic's opinion after inspection - or a first-impression?

You'd be surprised how badly little things can make the outlook appear, only to discover it's relatively trivial.

Don't give up until you're certain!

Got any details? Mileage, circumstances, symptoms, codes, what was found by the person performing the diagnostics?

Mark

steelhorse · **Joined:** Sun Sep 04, 2011 7:24 pm **Posts:** 16

milage is 91000..through a code for glow plug..is loosing about 1 quart of coolant in a 60 mile drive,can't find any external leaks.no colant in oil..suspect bad head gasket or head..has a light rattling sounds like it's coming from the top end around the water pump.there is no smoke coming out the tail pipe(white or blue). when i drive it there is a hesitaion when i first accelerate then comes up to power..pulled the map sensor it was dripping with oil..any ideas?

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Wed Apr 18, 2012 11:01 am

You wont pick up a 2.8L CRD for $900 at a junk yard.
If you can find one for $3K, you better catch a flight to Las Vegas while your luck is holding out.

geordi · **Posted:** Wed Apr 18, 2012 12:47 pm

HOLD EVERYTHING!
What you are describing DOES NOT immediately point at an engine!

First things first: At 91000 miles, if you have not done an EHM (Elephant Hose Mod) or any other protective mods to the engine - GO READ THE NOOB GUIDE, PLEASE!
Chances are, you might be experiencing power loss from one or more HOLES in your boost hoses that have developed over time from the extremely bad factory design. The oil in the intake is NORMAL if you have a stock CCV system.
Your Map sensor "dripping in oil" is ONE HUNDRED PERCENT NORMAL.
A "slight hesitation from a dead stop then power comes on" is ONE HUNDRED PERCENT NORMAL - because we have a turbo, and that is called "turbo lag" for those that don't know.
If you do have that stock CCV system, then at 91000 miles, I know for FACT that your airbox hose leading to the turbo is DESTROYED by oil from the CCV - $60 dealer only part, and DO NOT let any dealer monkey tell you that you need a new turbo. THIS IS COMPLETE BULLSHIPT. This same oil from the CCV coats and eats away at the boost hoses, and is actually forced THROUGH the walls of those hoses, further accelerating the destruction. Are your hoses "growing hair" of filth on the outside? That is the oil contamination soaking them and catching any bit of dust that flies past. This WILL eventually lead to holes tearing open in these hoses. The fix is to replace the hoses and re-route the CCV oil somewhere else entirely.

"Rattling around top end coming from the water pump" - Uhm, problem here: The water pump is NOWHERE NEAR the top end, it is on the front near the bottom, behind the engine fan (and belt) at around the 7 o'clock position. You CANNOT POSSIBLY hear anything from down there at the top end.

What are you hearing? Well... You DO have a diesel, diesel rattle is somewhat to be expected, but with that mileage, I suspect that your lifters are getting gunked up with sludge. They are designed with an oil INLET in them, but no oil outlet. Just machine tolerance lets the oil out, and they need to be flexing up and down constantly. There is a solution for you, and it is fairly simple for this problem: An oil additive. Go get a few bottles of a product called "RISLONE" in an ugly yellow quart bottle, and put one in right now. I don't care what your oil level is, unless it is already WAY over the full mark. It won't hurt anything to be just a little overfull, this engine has a way of dealing with it. Drive around with the Rislone in the engine for a while, give it at least 100 miles or so.

Then change your oil. You want to run a 3000 mile oil change cycle for the next 10k miles. Yes, you will change your oil 3 times before you get to 100k, and replace one quart of the diesel synthetic oil with Rislone each time. This WILL clean out your lifters, and they will start sounding MUCH quieter. After this change cycle, I would suggest only extending to about 6000 miles or so, unless you are running oil analysis tests. You are also going to want to use the much better option of a Mobil One M1-301 filter, which is a slightly larger filter for our engines. Use that with each change, and the PROPER oil fill becomes 7 quarts, no matter what the stick says. You have been using the proper diesel rated synthetic, right? I prefer Mobil 1 Truck and SUV, which is also marketed at truckstops as Mobil 1 DELVAC in a silver bottle. Delvac 1300 is not synthetic. Also a good option is Shell Rotella T6 (Blue Bottle) that is fully synthetic.

Code for glow plug - Ok, which one? This by itself is not a killer code, but it might lead toward a solution of your coolant loss.
You could be dealing with a head gasket issue, which is not a killer at the moment... But you don't want to let it go either. Replacement heads (if yours is cracked) are available, I happen to have one for sale. You would need to pull the top end apart, which would give you a good chance to have the intake properly cleaned in a hot tank, have all the lifters checked (some might be cracking from the gunk build up) and have the head checked for square and pressure.

The first thing to know about these engines - The do not suffer failures politely. If something critical goes wrong, the engine will do VERY bad things VERY VERY quickly. If it is still driving, then it isn't the engine, it is something else entirely.

Where are you located? There is a good chance a member is near you, or can direct you to a mechanic who knows WTF they are doing with these engines. NEVER GO TO A DEALERSHIP. EVER.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Wed Apr 18, 2012 2:43 pm

To that I would add there are a number of places where you can loose coolant without ever seeing sign of the loss although 1 qt per 60 miles is a lot. I'd hunt the coolant leak first with UV dye in the coolant, drive a bit, use a UV light in the shade or indoors/dark, to see where coolant is going. Loose hoses or relaxed OEM spring hose clamps are a common cause.

Oil spitting out of the filler. Did you recently change oil and if so how much did you add. 6.3qts is full fill on a stock size filter and anything over that will spray oil out the filler or CCV into the turbo until the level is back to normal (as noted don't trust dip stick for full fill level).

Setting aside normal diesel rattle do you have a bad viscous heater bearing (top passenger side of engine with water hose coming from tstat and going to firewall) if so the front of the viscous heater clutch will get rather more than a bit hot quickly. More likely if it's anything it's the alternator (top driver's side) clutch; take plastic cover off engine; crank up in park; may need flashlight but look down along the sepentine belt to the serp belt tensioner; if it's bouncing around the alternator clutch is gone (Note my clutch is fine and tensioner hardly twitches).

Bottom line this does not sound like an engine. Certainly not yet.

steelhorse · **Joined:** Sun Sep 04, 2011 7:24 pm **Posts:** 16

put dye in the coolant..took it for a ride.. it still ran under power then after 20 miles it stater running great.. then it died ..would start back up..hooked up the scan tool ..here is the code P0340 Camshaft position (CMP) sensor A, bank 1 – circuit malfunction Wiring.. so i guess it went out...were is the cmp located? the only good thing is i found the coolant leak ..coolant dripping out up behind the water pump.. could the cps cause the loss of power ,then start running ok before it went out

tonycrd · **Posted:** Thu Apr 19, 2012 11:35 am

So there's coolant dripping from the Viscous heater, Not the waterpump. Bearing is shot, that would explain the rattle you hear in that area.

The waterpump is inside T-belt cover. Right above the powersteering pump. But you can't see it, lol.

Have you checked the wiring on the cam sensor? It's on the left rear of the cilinderhead, when you stand in front of your Libby. Right behind the useless oil seperator of the PCV.

And if you take off the oil filler cap with a running engine, oil will spray everywhere since the exhaust cam is right underneath, no splash shield.

geordi · **Posted:** Thu Apr 19, 2012 1:29 pm

The thing connected to the serpentine belt (The ONLY belt you can see without tearing apart the engine) is NOT YOUR WATER PUMP. This is the "Viscous Clutch Heater" which makes your water hot when the weather is cold. A good possibility for your poor performance is that this thing failed and got locked on, overheating its own bearing and failing.

This will eventually cause the pulley itself to shear off, which is not critical to the engine (as the water pump is NOT driven from that belt) but you will lose the alternator and AC function. You need to replace that Viscous Clutch Heater. You can bypass it in the water system (connect both heater hoses together) and unplug the viscous heater's electrical connection, that will turn the viscous heater into nothing more than a spinning idler pulley. Unfortunately, you still have to replace the one you have, b/c the bearing has failed.

Whether you choose to continue using the new one is up to you.

Replacement of the Camshaft Position Sensor is not terribly difficult, and absolutely required as if that sensor fails, the engine computer has no idea what part of the cycle the engine is in. It will not run with a failed sensor.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Thu Apr 19, 2012 3:16 pm

I'll agree/disagree here a bit. If water is leaking in the vicinity of your viscous heater I'd first replace the OEM spring clamps with worm clamps and see if that stops the leak. I know coolant goes into the viscous heater and mills around inside where it's heated somewhat by friction between viscous heater internal components but what I don't know is if there is a gasket that keeps the coolant inside; off course if there is that gasket may have failed. What I do know is if the viscous heater bearing has failed you have 2 options; 1) replace the viscous heater PN55037539AA which is a bit pricey or 2) replace the pulley bearing only - 35mm ID X 52mm OD x 22mm thick - and disable the viscous heater by pulling relay R36 in the Power Distribution Center for either model year (see viewtopic.php?f=5&t=60567&start=20 for a how to on replacing the bearing). The latter option leaves the viscous in place as an idler pulley and as geordi notes you can elect to bypass the coolant flow to the viscous heater entirely although I wouldn't do so by connecting the 2 hoses together. Rather I'd route a new length of standard heater hose from the tstat port, where a hose runs to the viscous heater, to the heater core line that the viscous heater connects to (I'm a fan of as few coolant hose connections and clamps as possible).

steelhorse · **Joined:** Sun Sep 04, 2011 7:24 pm **Posts:** 16

replaced cam position sensor(cmp)..won't start..code for bad cmp/ecm cleared them came back when i tried to start it..any way to check the ecm before i buy another one??

waspie · **Posted:** Wed May 02, 2012 2:39 pm

until someone with more thorough knowledge comes along...

i'm supposing its a 3 wire, 5 volt hall sensor. turn the ignition on and leave it on. unplug the cam sensor and use a digital multimeter to check for voltage at the connector (not the sensor, the wiring). I don't know the pinout but you won't hurt anything by probing all combinations. you should see 5 volts using some combination. if not, that's a problem.

Once you've found the ground and +5v you can plug the sensor back in and "backprobe" the connector using the ground and third terminal. you could then have someone crank the engine and watch for the voltage to jump between 0 and 5 v. if your meter is slow you may just see the display trying to jump back and forth.

if that all looks good you might want to check for continuity between the sensor and the plug at the ECU. if all that checks out the ECU may have a problem but in my experience ECUs don't fail all that often (maybe they do in the jeep).

good luck

steelhorse · **Joined:** Sun Sep 04, 2011 7:24 pm **Posts:** 16

this is what i found so far pulled the front end apart found waterpump pulley broken off..most of the rocker are broke,some of the intake and exhaust valves are bent hanging open,a couple of valve have broken off,valve springs and valve stems pulled out..haven't pulled the head of yet..looks like a complete rebuild or another engine..darn..anyone have an engine for a 2005

naturist · **Posted:** Mon Nov 12, 2012 10:37 am

Wow, that's a lot of damage. Sounds like your timing belt jumped a couple teeth. 91,000 miles is early for a timing belt problem, but usually that results in broken rocker arms and crushed lifters rather than broken/bent valves.

The good news is that a rebuilt head comes with new valves, and if you've got that much damage, you'll need the head. That's about $850 exchange. While you are in there, replace the timing belt and tensioners. New water pump, obviously. My guess is that the water pump breaking caused the timing belt to jump.

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Tue Nov 13, 2012 9:56 pm

if the waterpump pulley broke off -I'd go with the waterpump seizing and stripping the timing belt.....

otherwise it's really hard to break off that pulley - but if it fails - it'll take everything else out with it.

Hexus · **Posted:** Wed Nov 14, 2012 11:54 am

I feel bad about mine skipping a tooth, I guess it could be a lot worse..... :shock:

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Wed Nov 14, 2012 12:28 pm

steelhorse wrote:

this is what i found so far pulled the front end apart found waterpump pulley broken off..most of the rocker are broke,some of the intake and exhaust valves are bent hanging open,a couple of valve have broken off,valve springs and valve stems pulled out..haven't pulled the head of yet..looks like a complete rebuild or another engine..darn..anyone have an engine for a 2005

Mind keeping us updated with photos?

help..need new engine..

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