Oil light on at idle

Petah812 · **Posted:** Tue May 08, 2012 1:09 am

warp2diesel wrote:

geordi wrote:

I use the very good Mobil One M1-301 filter, which is an "oversized" filter for our engines. It will mount right up and increase the oil charge to a full 7 quarts, eliminating the nonsense of measuring out 6.4 with the stock filter size. As for the oil change interval... Get this: I changed my oil at 120k or so, and decided that I was going to run a shorter change for a while to check the difference. I have no EGR or CCV getting in the way, and I use Rislone now starting with that change.

At 123k or so, the turbo started acting sluggish, seeming to have more turbo lag on take off from a stop. I decided to change the oil again. The problem vanished. I'm now at 127k, and it was very laggy again, until I changed the oil yesterday... It is running great again.

I think that I will be investing in an oil-scrubbing centrifuge next. Warp, care to offer any tips on yours? Can it discharge uphill, like into the oil fill tower on top of the intake?

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

My 55 GPH Centrifuge was purchased from PA Biodiesel Supply. http://pabiodieselsupply.com/shop/waste ... c-100.html and bought or made the rest of the parts I needed. I used a 1" NPT Nipple, a 1" conduit nut and lots of JB Weld after cleaning to attach the drain fitting into the side of the sump and it still works.
If you want to discharge into the top of the engine, you will need to shell out for the system with a recovery pump. Try: http://www.dieselcraft.com/engine-oil-cleaning.php
Just remember, gravity is still free and even the Europeans have not figured out how to tax it yet.
If you can figure a way to mount the centrifuge on top of the valve cover and close the hood, installation will be easy.
Good Luck

Gday warp2diesel
Help me out here. Wouldn't the oil pressure to the rest of the engine drop if fitting a centrifuge especially at idle, or are you feeding it with a separate pump.

Regards
Peter

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Tue May 08, 2012 6:30 am

Petah812 wrote:

warp2diesel wrote:

geordi wrote:

I use the very good Mobil One M1-301 filter, which is an "oversized" filter for our engines. It will mount right up and increase the oil charge to a full 7 quarts, eliminating the nonsense of measuring out 6.4 with the stock filter size. As for the oil change interval... Get this: I changed my oil at 120k or so, and decided that I was going to run a shorter change for a while to check the difference. I have no EGR or CCV getting in the way, and I use Rislone now starting with that change.

At 123k or so, the turbo started acting sluggish, seeming to have more turbo lag on take off from a stop. I decided to change the oil again. The problem vanished. I'm now at 127k, and it was very laggy again, until I changed the oil yesterday... It is running great again.

I think that I will be investing in an oil-scrubbing centrifuge next. Warp, care to offer any tips on yours? Can it discharge uphill, like into the oil fill tower on top of the intake?

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

My 55 GPH Centrifuge was purchased from PA Biodiesel Supply. http://pabiodieselsupply.com/shop/waste ... c-100.html and bought or made the rest of the parts I needed. I used a 1" NPT Nipple, a 1" conduit nut and lots of JB Weld after cleaning to attach the drain fitting into the side of the sump and it still works.
If you want to discharge into the top of the engine, you will need to shell out for the system with a recovery pump. Try: http://www.dieselcraft.com/engine-oil-cleaning.php
Just remember, gravity is still free and even the Europeans have not figured out how to tax it yet.
If you can figure a way to mount the centrifuge on top of the valve cover and close the hood, installation will be easy.
Good Luck

Gday warp2diesel
Help me out here. Wouldn't the oil pressure to the rest of the engine drop if fitting a centrifuge especially at idle, or are you feeding it with a separate pump.

Regards
Peter

The centrifuge does not come on until the oil pressure reaches 30-35PSI, to prevent engine damage. Also the jets that cause the spinning action are only 0.045 inch in diameter using up to 55 GPH or 0.91GPM. Ratings for the centrifuge are at the max pressure, mine is 85PSI. As you can see in the chart, the flow of 0.66GPM at a normal down the road at highway speed of 40PSI to 50PSI, is not a lot.

Mostly what the centrifuge gets rid of is soot, I dig it out of the bowl on every oil change.

I changed out the Banjo Fitting for a T and mounted my oil pressure sensor on the T since the photo.

Caddis · **Posted:** Tue May 08, 2012 10:03 am

turbobike wrote:

Hardest part of the job is disconnecting the wire without breaking the connector.

That's for sure. I still haven't been able to get mine off, I'm going to wait until I have it up on lifts the next time so I can see how that little sensor is attached better before I wreck it.
My sensor has been bad for a few months now, and the little light stays on all the time and rarely dings at me any more. About a month ago, I had what I believe was a slight air in fuel issue right outside a small town while on a trip. I didn't know the symptoms at the time and drove back into the small town. A friendly local mechanic agreed to hook his computer up to my Jeep and while we were scrolling through the different systems making sure nothing serious had happened (he was impressed by how much info the CRD computer provides), we happened across the oil sensor reading. As my Jeep was sitting there idling beautifully, the oil pressure was reading 0 psi.

Petah812 · **Posted:** Tue May 08, 2012 10:06 am

warp2diesel, Thanks for the info.
I have heard about them, but never looked into it much. This is another mod I will do.
These are the sort mods that i am into more these days, building in more reliability. In some ways fixing it before it's broke. Whereas before, why fix it, if it aint broke. Comes with age i suppose, 50 this year.

Looks like a fresh install by the photo, very nice.
I'll have to check in the morning, if i have the same space to fit it. Are you using the drain as the mounting bracket.
Has it extended your oil changes.
Is it a messy job to clean out, ie, dripping oil from the cover, or do you lift out the whole unit.
Did you use the same port, that the oil pressure sensor came out of, as your feed line.
Sorry for all the questions, but i am now very interested.

One last one for now, Can't see the part number clearly in the scan.
They'll work out a way taxing the air we breath one day. Oh wait that's carbon tax.

Regards
Peter

TennesseeCRD · **Joined:** Mon Jan 11, 2010 11:01 am **Posts:** 181

Swapped out the sending unit yesterday and so far so good (except for the new oil stain on my driveway.)

Petah812 · **Posted:** Wed May 09, 2012 10:03 pm

I've had a look, and i can't fit it in the same spot as warp2diesel has, because my brake booster is taking that spot. (Right hand drive). Nowhere else i can fit it. One spot i had, I've used for my air/fuel filter.

I might build a small standalone unit, and run it through every couple months or so. I've got one of those fancy valve things (can't remember the name of it) as my sump drain, so draining, filtering and refilling not too much of a problem.

Just wondering if I would still change the oil at recommended intervals because of blow-by diesel slowly diluting the oil, also the break down of the oil's properties. So maybe no savings there.
But it would still be a worthwhile mod to do, as you would be removing the soot, water, glycol and metals ect in real time and thereby extending the life of the engine.
This is worth a read http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Rea ... ntaminants

Regards
Peter

abbzer0 · **Joined:** Sat Dec 17, 2011 1:26 am **Posts:** 1

Posted this on another thread, but wanted to be sure to share my personal experience, as reading others helped me diagnose the problem!

##################################################

+1 on the Oil Sending Unit. While driving my wife's 06 CRD, low oil pressure light came on at a stop sign. It would go away if you went above 15-1600 RPMs. Scaaaarry!!! I discovered several other issues with the vehicle while investigating the cause. (Long story, but I think I have a leaky turbo inlet hose which is very common...)

Changed oil 400 miles early and replaced the sending unit. Viola! Problem fixed. Also cleaned the MAP sensor (and now the vehicle speeds up much slower and smoother. I think before it was much more jerky! The sensor was caked with a sludge looking coating) Bled the air from the fuel system w/ the pump, and also replaced both front CV Joint Halfshafts. (No tears, but the bearings were shot, and made a LOT of road noise while driving. Replaced all 4 wheel bearings before, figuring that must have been the source of the noise. Sure enough, replacing the CV halfshafts was the ticket!)

This is an awesome form, and great source of information for us CRD owners. I wouldn't trust anyone to work on this Jeep but myself!! :pepper:

druminstein · **Joined:** Sat May 30, 2015 3:25 pm **Posts:** 1

If in fact the oil light is the only issue and just simply needs to be reset try this:

http://carhowto.com/how-to-reset-oil-li ... -cherokee/

their app has more models and years, great if that lights goes off while your out and about, hope it helps.

Oil light on at idle

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