Black Smoke on acceleration

papaindigo · **Posted:** Thu May 10, 2012 8:29 am

Not directly. I think what your picture shows is a tear in the woven covering on a CAC hose which might or might not indicate a tear in the actual underlying hose. The only way to tell for sure is to pull the hose completly off the vehicle (best remove both hoses); remove the woven cover; and carefully inspect the hose(s), particularly the bottom side, for holes/tears/soft spots. If any are found or the hose(s) are soggy with oil on the outside replace the hose(s). I and others are fond of Samco silicone hoses which can be obtained from Boost Controller. NOTE when installing Samco's they lack the witness marks of the stock hoses so before clamping them down tight be sure to inspect the routing to make sure nothing is rubbing (particularly the sensor on the side of the airbox outlet and the gray AC switch kind of low down on the driver's side), adjust as need be. It's also a good idea to drive a couple of days and recheck routing and clamp tightness

While you have the CAC hoses off take a careful look at the bottom of the air filter to turbo hose just in front of the turbo. That's where the CCV drips oil and degrades the hose until it eventually tears. OEM is the only option for replacement (53013104AE) and cost is about $60. When installing a replacement hose pull/push the hose onto the air filter box until it touches the MAF sensor before tightening the clamp lest you crush the air filter box outlet (been there).

denvergrows · **Posted:** Sun May 20, 2012 4:08 am

I Changed the CAC hoses, no change.
I bypassed the boost pressure soleniod, no change.
Checked the filter to turbo hose, it was fine.
Cleaned the MAP sensor.
Cleaned the air filter.
Unplugged the MAF until I get GDE tune.

My symptoms are:
lowered MPG's
Struggles climbing hills. Kicks up to 4 rpms climbing pretty steep hills at even slow speeds.
LOTS of black smoke.
I hear the turbo spool. Fairly loud too. But I don't feel like it is kicking in. I never feel that jolt.

Am I just expecting too much? I know it only a 4 cyl. and I am new to the CRD's. I make it where I want to go. I just feel like it should have more power. But I don't really need more power. Really I just want her running right.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sun May 20, 2012 7:52 am

Have you checked the function of the turbo variable vanes? If they are sticky an Italian tuneup is the fix (hard acceleration up several slopes like interstate on ramp). Typical mpg without GDE tune is 18-27 at moderate in-town/hwy speed. I've never seen 4k rpm except under very, by my standards, hard accleration. Power, setting aside that brief turbo lag off the line, should feel like a very peppy 6cyl gasser and it should do most highway hills with no downshift.

Per GDE - You can check the vane functionality at idle in park. Underneath the vacuum actuator on the turbo is rod extending downward connected to the vane mechanism. If you pull off the vacuum line at the turbo, the arm should drop about 1/2 inch and then raise back up after reconnecting the vacuum line. It is a bit difficult to see the rod, but this is the easiest method to check for proper VGT vane moevment.

denvergrows · **Posted:** Sun May 20, 2012 2:15 pm

I'm not really sure if it's stuck. I ry to do the thing they talk about but can't find the rod I should be looking for. I have done several hard accelerations up very steep hills.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sun May 20, 2012 3:27 pm

Trace the turbo>intercooler hose back to the turbo and on the driver's side of the inlet to the turbo (I'm going from memory as I no longer have the OEM turbo) you should see a housing on top of the turbo (round when looking straight down at it) with a vertical shield on one side and a small hard plastic vacuum line running to the vacuum tower behind the air filter box. The variable vane rod is immediately under that housing such that you may have to push some hoses to one side to see it to run the test.

denvergrows · **Posted:** Tue May 22, 2012 1:23 am

It was vacuum lines. One had melted with a hole in it, and the other had just melted shut to not let any air through. I went to Fort Collins today and SirSam took a look at it and figured it all out. We replaced them and she seems to be running well again.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Tue May 22, 2012 8:56 am

That would be the cause of the variable vanes not working. At least one other forum member had the melted vacuum lines problem.

denvergrows · **Posted:** Tue May 22, 2012 3:20 pm

We checked the movement of the vanes. Took us a minute to find the moving rod that GDE speaks of, but when we did, Sam took a few pictures and a video to help others the future.

kissfan79 · **Posted:** Tue May 22, 2012 4:56 pm

Any chance you could post the pics and video. Thatd be awesome to see.

Jim

denvergrows · **Posted:** Thu May 24, 2012 5:07 pm

I didn't take the video that day but I got one toady showing how to check the vane movement.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/77032633@N ... hotostream

Black Smoke on acceleration

Who is online