We had the CRD out in the woods this weekend doing some trail riding, etc. Went through some deep sandy trails in 4wd Lo, but nothing it didn't handle pretty well. Riding a couple more miles, some bumps, but no major jarring or anything real rough. It just totally cut off on me in the middle of driving down the trail, didn't touch a thing. The security light came on the dash. Tried to restart it and nothing at all, no clicks or anything. Security light comes on solid after the 3 sec. bulb check. No click at the ASD relay under the dash, etc.

I had to have a buggy tow me the 6 miles back to camp through the woods, then another 200 mile round trip to get my truck and trailer to bring the CRD back home. Needless to say, I'm not very happy with my CRD at the moment.

Today I tried a new batery, just in case, and no change at all. Less than a year ago I had the local dealer put in a new BCM (body control module) and had to get two new keys and programing, etc. for almost $700. I sure as hell can't afford another bill like that. What do you guys think, SKIS module?

Are you able to pull any codes?

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2005 Liberty CRD
2004.5 Cummins 5.9L TD, F1s, NV5600 6-speed in a '93 GMC Suburban

I loaned my code reader out, but I'm getting it back tomorrow. I'll see if there are any codes, but I don't think there will be. It doesn't do anything, it's not even trying to engage the starter.

what mods have you done to the jeep if any?

I was many strange things happen on my wife after I installed a CCV vent system..that didn't work quite right..I think it created too much back pressure..symptom ..dash light were like a pinball game..
random lights and beeps..even the security light came on(yes the little red light in the lower left)..WE DON'T HAVE THE SYSTEM..

after removing the bottle neck and venting to air..all the symptoms went away..

just a wild guess..

and there were no codes either..

-dkenny

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84 BB school bus, DD8.2L turbo ->the transmission died..too expensive to fix..it'll be heading to the scrap yard..4/11)..Bus gone to Scarp 8/23/11
06 Liberty CRD
'99 dodge ram 2500 quad cab, 4x4, 24v
all Biodiesel powered when its warm enough

Have you checked all the fuses yet? Both under-dash and in the engine compartment... and while you're at it, make sure all the relays are seated. Perhaps something's come loose, or was temporarily shorted by the off road bumps and frame flexing?

Mark

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2005 Liberty CRD
2004.5 Cummins 5.9L TD, F1s, NV5600 6-speed in a '93 GMC Suburban

Have you tried your spare key? What if you normal key has been damaged some how?

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2006 Liberty CRD Limited

Provent @ 43,000 km
SEGR in progress
SAMCO Sport hoses @ 48500 km
Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac LT225/75R16

The SKIS light staying ON solid means that the ECM recognised the code sent to it from the SKIM unit but did not get the confirmation from the ASD relay that it, the relay, had energised.

I had exactly that problem on my 2002 CRD.
I traced it to a bad wire going from the ECU to the ASD relay which caused the relay not to energise.

You should be able to bypass the problem by jumping together the output points of the ASD relay namely the pins 30 and 87 once you have ignition ON. Fuse 6 (30 Amp) in the PDC is also relevant as regards the ASD relay...at least as regards the 2002 circuit diagrams. This fools the ECU into thinking the relay has energised and also supplies power to the alternator field coil.
You cannot use this method to "hot wire" a CRD as the ECU must still get the correct code from the SKIM module at the key point.

If the SKIS light flashes it means the SKIS unit did not send a correct code to the ECU so a spare key may help but in your case the fault is probably somewhere in the wiring from the ECU to the ASD relay...this relay has to energise!

What year is your CRD?

Try find a circuit diagram for your model CRD...you can try http://www.scribd.com

Or SAMS Noob Guide here has links to CRD circuit diagrams.

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2002 Export CRD 2.5 Sport

I had a similar problem last year with mine,i could start it,but sometimes,it would stall right away,then start,and no gauges and SKIS light you turn on,no codes in it,so i suspected the key,tried the other one,same thing...i first tought about the bcm to,but i investigated more before replacing it...

After almost a week of trying to find the problem after workdays,i found that the positive key switch wire was damaged,and was rubbing on metal inside the plastic housing where the switch is located(the ignition switch),so i soldered it nice,put some heat shrink over the repair,and never happened again..

I have a friend who works at a jeep dealership,and it seems to be a frequent problem on those jeeps,not saying this is your problem,but i would take 5 min and look at it...Plus 2 guys i know had the problem to...As i work for GM,we had some similar problems in the past with the famous passlock system on some models,like the malibu,impala,oldsmobile intrigue,all the models that had the swith on the dashboard instead of the steering column,so thats why i tought about looking at the switch wiring..

Billwill: My CRD is a 06'. I downloaded the FSM and have been using it to try and diagnose the problem.

All the fuses look good, swapped out the ASD fuse and relay with others of the same part # to verify that they were ok, etc. There is no click or anything at the ASD relay when I turn the ignition on. The only relay that clicked or turned on with the ignition was the Blower Fan if I remember right.

I just got me code reader back, I'll read the codes as soon as I get home and let you guys know if I pull up any. I'll check the wires for rubbing, etc.

I did check the spare key and it does the same thing also, so its not the keys.

Use a voltmeter to check that you are getting power to the ASD relay. My diagram shows that +12 volts goes through fuse 6 (30 amp) and to pins 30 and 86 on the ASD relay via a Red/Yellow wire.

The ground side of the relay, pin 85, gets ground switched to it via a Dark Blue/Yellow wire from pin C61 on connector C1 of the ECM, via connector C111.

So you need to check that +12 volts is present on the one side of the ASD relay and that the ECM is supplying ground to the other side.
Either you have a broken wire, bad connector or the ECM is not happy for some reason.


Edit to add: OK I have downloaded the relevant circuit for the 2006 CRD....a bit more complicated than my 2002 but similar as regards the ASD relay.

The ASD relay gets +12 volts from fuse 6 (30 amps) in the PDC. This +12 volts should be present on pins 86 and 30 of the ASD relay at all times.
The negative side of the ASD relay is supplied on pin 85 of the relay via a Brown/White wire from pin 44 on connector C2 of the ECM via connector C105. The ECM will only enable this ground connection if it is happy with the SKIM signal.

The relay should now energize and via fuse 26 (25 amp) should tell the ECM that it has energised via a Brown/Red wire to pin 5 on C2 on the ECM....check this fuse number 26!

So you need to check that you are getting +12 volts on the one side of the ASD relay, getting ground on the other side, relay should energise and tell the ECM that it has done so.

If the ASD relay is not energising, I still believe shorting relay pins 30 to 87 will overide the problem.

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2002 Export CRD 2.5 Sport

Been working OT the last couple days, I'm finally going to have the time tomorrow to really try and get this thing fixed. Thanks for all the info, hopefully I'll be posting good news tomorrow afternoon.

Good and Bad News:

After a little bit of testing I found a blown fuse #14 on the side of the drivers dash. Its a 10A fuse feeding the ECM and TCM among other things. That explains why my code reader couldn't connect, etc. I did a visual check of all the fuses out in the woods when it happened and I couldn't see the break in the fuse when I checked it. I checked all of them with my meter this morning and found it. Visually I could barely see the break even after I found it with the meter.
The CRD starts right up now

Now I seem to have a problem with the battery draining down pretty quickly when I hook it up. The battery had 12.6V and an hour later it was down to 10.4V. I'm thinking this problem might be the cause of the blown fuse I had? With the battery pos. on and neg. cable disconnected, if I put the neg. cable on, I can here a click every time from the same location under the hood. Its under the Alternator area, possibly EGR area? Almost like a loud relay click or metal click, just one click when I put the cable on. I've never notice that sound, Not normal, correct?

Sounds like the FCV clicking. Unplug that and see if the noise and battery drain goes away. The FCV is the motorized throttle in the intake tube, right by the dipstick.

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05CRD: GDE Hot ECU & TCM tunes, Provent, Cat filter, Facet lift pump, TransGo kit, Florida TC, Samcos, stainless brake lines, HDS thermostat, Renegade light bar,
RL super sliders, Bilstein adjustables, Al's Gen 4.5 Arms, 235/85-16 Duratracs, DTT rear, Elocker front, EVIC+TPMS, Turbo timer, McNally pillar gauges, Weeks Stage II kit.

Glad to hear that you do not have a major problem anymore!

You definitely do not want to here something "clicking" under the hood as you connect the battery...have a look at the FCV as CATCRD has suggested. Normally you hear a "click" from the rear gate latch as you connect power and this is normal.

That fused circuit also goes to the MAF....maybe that is faulty and you need to disconnect it and see what happens.
Otherwise you have to connect an Amp-meter in series with the battery and see what the current drain is and pull out fuses one-by-one to see when the drain dissapears....starting with your fuse 14

You should find the drain with the help of your circuit diagrams although it could take some time!

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2002 Export CRD 2.5 Sport