timing belt change

99sportcummins · **Joined:** Tue Apr 05, 2011 10:34 pm **Posts:** 31

Getting ready to change timing belt and i think its a little out of time. Do i get flywheel pin in and retime the cams with their pins.

Glend · **Posted:** Sun Jun 24, 2012 4:02 am

You should not have to 'retime' anything. When you lock the intake and exhaust cams, with the crank at 90 degrees ATDC then everything is lined up as required to change the belt. Please take the trouble to read the Service Manual and search for the various posts on this topic before you start.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sun Jun 24, 2012 9:13 am

You need to use the proper tools to lock down the cams, flywheel, and, if you are doing the water pump, the cam gears. If you don't have access to the Miller tools (your own or a nearby helpful member) then rent the tools from GDE.

Read good writeups such as Sir Sam's http://colorado4wheel.com/content/KJ_TB.html (Note - the removal of all that front end stuff is not essential but is certainly opens up the work area) and http://colorado4wheel.com/content/KJ_TB.html

It's not a hard job just tedious because it's critical you take your time and do things right. Just doing the belt and associated idlers and tensioner is about 4-5 hrs. adding in the water pump takes a bit more but not that much if you use Sir Sam's replace only the working part approach.

You say you think it's "a little out of time"; why? IIRC it's possible to be 1 TB tooth off and still run with no damage to rockers/lifters but more than that produces obvious noise and rocker/lifter damage that must be repaired. The VM engine is not like a gasser where you can adjust IGNITION timing against some timing mark which really adjusts the point at which the individual spark plugs ignite. Rather the point of the cam pins and flywheel pin is to set the timing of opening and shutting of the intake/exhaust valves in relation to piston travel to avoid pistons/valves attempting to occupy the same space as diesels fire by compression not a spark.

99sportcummins · **Joined:** Tue Apr 05, 2011 10:34 pm **Posts:** 31

The reason i was thinkin it was a little out of time is cause it start running a little rough at idle. Now that i have it apart i have the cam pins in and the pin wont go in to flywheel. If i use a smaller diamiter drill bit i can get it thru at an angle

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sun Jun 24, 2012 12:21 pm

You need to slow down and consider for a mnute as there should be not resistence/tilting/etc in inserting the 2 cam pins and the flywheel pin. The proper size "pins" either go into place easily or the don't and if they don't either you are doing something wrong or your engine is, in fact, out of time. Pull a copy of the 05 FSM from Sir Sam's NOOB guide and look for instructions on how to correctly use the proper size allen key as a flywheel pin. To those instructions I'd add that there are other cutouts in the flywheel so it's a good idea to use the tip of the allen key to "tap" around the hole in the flywheel to make sure you are insterting the allen key into a small flywheel hole not a larger cutout.

If in fact your engine is out of time even a little I'd defer to Sir Sam but strongly suspect you need to pull the top end (valve cover) and closely inspect your rocker/lifters for damage. For examples see some of the top end work posts on the forum.

99sportcummins · **Joined:** Tue Apr 05, 2011 10:34 pm **Posts:** 31

Got allen wrench in flywheel and pins i made in the cams, so i assume its on time. I found a video on you tube with a jeep that had messed up rockers and mine sounds the same. What are the odds of having messed up rockers with it still in time?

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sun Jun 24, 2012 2:47 pm

If the cam pins are sized properly (allen wrenchs are not an acceptably substitute as one member found out the hard way) and the proper size allen key (per the 05 FSM) easily engage in the appropriate holes (allen key in flywheel straight per FSM) then you should timed ok.

Rockers/lifters shouldn't be damaged by an engine that's always been in time although GDE has recently expressed concern over rocker/lifter lifespan in a manner that suggests damage is possible even in a properly time engine.

I'd suggest you get in touch with Keith at GDE and Sir Sam as they are way more knowledgeable on rockers/lifters than me or other sources of similar noise.

Glend · **Posted:** Mon Jun 25, 2012 5:19 am

It is possible that the engine can be slightly 'out of time' and that this only shows up when you do the timing belt change. This happened to me when I did mine. The ATDC and Intake Cam locks were lined up perfectly but the exhaust cam lock hole was just a degree or so out of perfect. The beveled point to the Miller locking pins allow for this to be corrected when you screw them in to lock the cams and flywheel. I suspect that belt stretching had caused this slight mis-time. How did I know this you ask? I used my flexible shaft inspection camera to peer into each of the locking holes to check for alignment - it's also a very easy way to get the engine to 3 o'clock AFTDC without having to get up and down all the time to move the engine around.

99sportcummins · **Joined:** Tue Apr 05, 2011 10:34 pm **Posts:** 31

Got cover off and dont see any messed up rockers or lifters. so not forsure what noise was. What all do i need to do to egr to disable it?

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sat Jun 30, 2012 11:23 am

Pull MAF sensor and live with constant CEL or get GDE tune. There are other approaches such as SEGR but IMHO the GDE tune is the best way to go for this and other benefits.

99sportcummins · **Joined:** Tue Apr 05, 2011 10:34 pm **Posts:** 31

i have a kerma tune thats suppose to stop cell if i get rid of the egr

99sportcummins · **Joined:** Tue Apr 05, 2011 10:34 pm **Posts:** 31

Pulled the number 3 glow plug and its cracked. Would that cause the injector misfire code? I swapped 2 injectors and the code stayed with the cylinder so i assume the injector is good

timing belt change

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