Limp mode plus oil light?

Maiettan · **Posted:** Thu May 17, 2012 7:43 am

Im on my cell phone waiting for a tow to arrive, so ill be brief. Driving to work this morning, jeep goes into limp mode starting from traffic light and oil pressure light comes on. Think 'oh crap there goes my turbo' so I stop on side of the road immediately, turn off jeep. Check oil, level is normal... could something else trigger the light?

Instucted by cop to move car immediately, started and no oil light, drove slowly les than 1/4 mile to neighborhood to await tow. Started looking around a bit, found fuel bleeder bulb soft, check original filter housing plug... def fuel leaking from the heater plug. Assuming that is the cause of limp mode, but why the oil light. Im all ears guys, thanks for your help!

papaindigo · **Posted:** Thu May 17, 2012 9:04 am

Without a "real" oil pressure gauge it's impossible to tell but if your oil level was normal I'd suspect the oil pressure idiot light sensor (down by the oil filter) is bad or going bad. See discussion at viewtopic.php?f=5&t=66762

Bleed fuel head per Sir Sam's NOOB guide video. If you have a lot of air come out that probably tripped the limp mode. If you haven't changed your fuel filter recently then change it. If you have a 1s gen fuel filter head consider replacing with 2n gen. FYI I had air in fuel problems with 1s gen head and no visible fuel leak at heater plug until I stuck a piece of paper towel in there (did not get wet but had definite diesel smell); when I installed the 2n gen head I found a badly burned internal heater element on the original 1st gen head I removed.

Miyanovich · **Posted:** Thu May 17, 2012 9:26 am

Based on what I just went through replacing the Turbo, I would say, even if your problem is not Turbo related, take the time to inspect the Turbo from above and below. Check Air Inlet hose for fit and splits, check oil send and oil return lines at the joints, look for pinholes as well.

Upgrade to the SAAMCO Turbo hoses, and make sure you do the EHM or get a Provent setup - if you have not done these things already.

My new rule: when something goes wrong with the Jeep, however minor, recheck all of the common modifications, situations / problems as well.

Good practice to get in to.

The last thing that you ever want to feel is that Turbo blowing out. The whole thing was awful.

:JEEPIN:

Maiettan · **Posted:** Thu May 17, 2012 4:02 pm

Just a little update. I left the Jeep at the dealer this morning. I had to start it to pull it into the dealer and the oil light did not stay on, just flashed like it normally does on start up... She started rough but appeared to run OK.

Called the dealer about 20 minutes ago and they said they had 3 techs working on it because the CRD is so rare that the computer system and codes are different (Funny, when I called them and asked if I could bring it in they said they knew ALLLLL about it, no problem)... They're going to keep it over night and call me first thing in the morning. I asked for any codes but the service rep just said he'd have to ask the tech and changed the subject.

I think you're right Miyanovich. It went limp mode on me once before, so I checked the heater plug and didn't notice anything (ie physical fuel squirting from plug like I saw when pumping the primer today) and I let it go (had just replaced the CAC hoses). I should have more throughly investigated...

Papa, thanks for the info on the idiot light, sounds like it wouldn't have done me any good HAD the turbo gone bad.

user113 · **Posted:** Wed Jun 27, 2012 12:48 am

Random question, which shop did you take it to and were you satisfied with the final result?

Maiettan · **Posted:** Wed Jun 27, 2012 8:03 am

I work in Rockville, MD so I took it to the Jeep place up here. I was about 5 min from work when it died on me. I'm not on here to bad mouth anybody, because I honestly believe that the people at the dealership tried as best they could. Buuuut, I was totally not satisfied with their ability to a) diagnose the problem and b) communicate with me. Remember as you read this story that I TOLD THEM WHEN I DROPPED THE JEEP OFF THAT IT WAS LEAKING FROM THE FILTER HEAD.

I left it there on a thurs morning. Thurs afternoon I hadn't heard anything (was told they would tell me something before quitting time) so I gave them a call and they said they were "having trouble reading the codes from the car because it's different than a gas vehicle." Sure, keep it overnight, "we'll call first thing in the morning." Fast forward to fri afternoon at 2pm. "Oh, still can't get any codes from it, we now have 3 techs working on the problem, we'll let you know before 5pm." at 5pm, turns out we figured it out: leaking fuel filter head, bad egr, $200 dignostic fee,bad maf sensor... bill = $2000. I said screw you, replace the filter head and give me my car back (by then it was in MD and I didn't have the time to go get it, order the part get it home, yada yada). They told me it would be $700 bucks to replace JUST the filter head. I told the guy again he was out of his mind because it's just removing a couple fuel hoses and bolts. He said "maybe he miscalculated" and came back with $400 bucks for the diagnostic and fuel filter head. I said lets roll and get this done... Got a call back 10 minutes later "you know how I told you we had the part... well I don't we'll get it tomorrow." Ended up getting the car back Mon morning.

Why on earth would I trust them with the timing belt job within the next year??

papaindigo · **Posted:** Wed Jun 27, 2012 9:19 am

Assuming you really got the 2n gen fuel head (see Sir Sam's NOOB guide for a fuel bleeding video that shows what the new fuel head looks like) I'd still recommend you DIY replace the oil pressure sending unit part #56028807AB which should be available for like $40 however that sender has been used for multiple years so I'm pretty sure there are perfectly good aftermarket options. FYI failure or intermittent failure of idiot light oil pressure sending units is not uncommon.

I hate to say it but what you needed done, by yourself or dealer, was probably limited to 1) replace filter head (ca. $200 at dealer so don't feel too bad if they did that); 2) replace oil pressure sending unit; and 3) clear codes (assuming they had DCJ scan tools reading to codes is a matter of plug in reader follow instructions) would probably do it. The limp and code was likely fuel head and the oil light is/was likely a bad sender.

As I assume you are aware "bad EGR" is almost a reflex diagnosis and IIRC a bad MAF won't cause a limp (at least running with it unplugged throws a code but not limp)

naturist · **Posted:** Wed Jun 27, 2012 9:57 am

The OP's tale of woe and intrigue makes you shake your head in wonder, doesn't it? I, too, would not trust such a shop to do a timing belt. And the thing is, this isn't rocket science. Even though this vehicle is uncommon, and even though for that reason it is more of a challenge to work on than your average go-buggy, it still ought to be within the abilities of someone resonably intelligent and mechanically inclined, and with the right tools.

But such guys seem hard to find. They certainly aren't to be found everywhere. I'm especially astonished at the shop's claim of having so much difficulty reading the codes off this vehicle. I think the translation of what they told you is like this: we're having trouble reading the codes (we just have no clue what the numbers we're getting actually mean), so we put three tech's on it (because not a one of them knows what the hell they are doing and we're hoping Larry, Curly, and Moe can at least figure out a way to not screw it up totally), and we'll get back to you tomorrow (or maybe some day, after we figure out what kind of whacky story you might be willing to accept).

Limp mode plus oil light?

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