Installed new fan clutch jeep still get's over 3/4 hot

nissanfrontier · **Joined:** Tue Dec 22, 2009 4:09 pm **Posts:** 145

Anything else I can do? Problem only shows up when it's sunny and hot outside. Factory thermo is open needing replacement. Just unplugged viscous heater relay will test tomorrow. 2005 crd 114k stock water pump I think dealer only changed timing belt they say $1000. Have not gone to dealer for reflashing calibration on gauges.

geordi · **Posted:** Sun Jul 01, 2012 12:01 am

nissanfrontier wrote:

Anything else I can do? Problem only shows up when it's sunny and hot outside. Factory thermo is open needing replacement. Just unplugged viscous heater relay will test tomorrow. 2005 crd 114k stock water pump I think dealer only changed timing belt they say $1000. Have not gone to dealer for reflashing calibration on gauges.

Sounds like it might be the gauge then, give a message to Keith and ask him, he knows far more about that than I do.

nissanfrontier · **Joined:** Tue Dec 22, 2009 4:09 pm **Posts:** 145

Also thinking about adding new radiator cap, just throwing parts at this thing now. Ford powerstrokes come with shiaty cap and replacement is best $5 you can spend wonder if CRD is similar. Flushing radiator out worth a shot?

Billwill · **Posted:** Sun Jul 01, 2012 4:38 am

Does the electric fan for the air-con turn on?

racertracer · **Posted:** Sun Jul 01, 2012 5:47 am

nissanfrontier wrote:

Flushing radiator out worth a shot?

Yes it is, flushing the system should be first on your list.

nissanfrontier · **Joined:** Tue Dec 22, 2009 4:09 pm **Posts:** 145

How do I go about flushing the CRD system. Is Zerex rad cleaners ok for use. I did pull heater core hoses and flushed them out during winter plugged up with this brown gunk. I have 2 long hoses that I can connect to heater core. Could I hook one up to in side and turn tap water on run motor? Also if I introduce tap water in system how will I get most of it out, plus add correct 50.50 coolant

DOC4444 · **Posted:** Sun Jul 01, 2012 1:44 pm

Which clutch did you install and are you sure it is engaging? If you have not reflashed your gauges and you have a factory clutch which is good, it will not engage at 3/4 on the gauge you have.

When it does engage, it is VERY loud and the temp on the gauge drops rapidly. I do not have my Hayden installed yet, so I have no details available on it.

DOC

racertracer · **Posted:** Sun Jul 01, 2012 2:06 pm

If the coolant out of your heater core looked questionable, then you need to clean your system.

The most important thing to do is to make sure that the orifices in the radiator and heater core are not clogged.

A sluggish cooling system is perilous to the engine.

If your coolant looks brown, then you need to get your cooling system flushed.

Follow the flushing directions affixed to the flushing kit.

Let it run through the cooling system for as long as indicated.

The system is drained by way of the petcock at the bottom of the radiator and filling by way of the plastic expansion tank on the passenger side.

To minimize air pockets while refilling, the expansion tank should continuously be filled to the brim with distilled water.

Gallon jugs of distilled water continously poured in the expansion tank. Have plenty of them opened at the ready constantly replenishing the tank so that it doesn't run dry. Two people working together will make it an easy job.

Keep doing it until the coolant coming out of the petcock is clear and if you think that the system could use another flush for good measure, then this would be the time to do it.

Do it before you fill the system with brand new Zerex coolant/antifreeze.

Pour in the Zerex coolant the same way as the distilled water was administered, through the expansion tank.

Allow 1.63 gallons of water to drain while filling the system with 1.63 gallons of Zerex, shut the petcock when the zerex is done and the coolant level reaches the fill line.

Eliminate air pockets.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sun Jul 01, 2012 2:46 pm

Make that Zerex G-05 HOAT antifreeze (NAPA has it or can get it - otherwise Mopar or Ford HOAT antifreeze will do - use nothing else); the drain on the bottom passenger side of the radiator is a bit hard to work (see viewtopic.php?f=98&t=56398 for a simple tool); best way to do a faster fill and drain and to be sure as little air is left in the system as possible on refill is to open the vent on the top passenger side of the radiator (turn counterclockwise to 4 o'clock and pull up, may need pliers, on refill fill until fluid comes out of the vent then put the vent back in and complete the fill).

I like to slightly overfill the coolant reservoir (1/2" or so) as the next few drive cycles will complete purging air and draw the coolant level down to the cool full line.

racertracer · **Posted:** Sun Jul 01, 2012 3:03 pm

Pap... That hole is best kept closed. ... opening two vent holes wil allow air in, you cna't monitor both, the idea is to keep the system sealed as it's draining.

Lots of air in through that hole and it will be difficult to purge.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sun Jul 01, 2012 3:38 pm

I think we may be talking about 2 separate things.

1. when flushing if your intent is to push as much clean water thru the system as possible while the system is as closed as possible then yes that top radiator vent needs to be kept closed or water won't effectively circulate. I still think the Prestone flush-n-fill kit will do a good complete system flush but have yet to hook mine up. Of course after doing that flush with a hose you would need to followup with a final purge using demineralized water before adding antifreeze.
2. when just draining and refilling the system pull the radiator cap (e.g. the cap on top of the coolant tank) and open the radiator drain which will pull fluid out of the coolant tank. Once that tank is empty you can speed up the remaining system drain by opening the vent on the top of the radiator. Yes of course air will get into the system but air is going to get in no matter what you do when the system is drained. By leaving the vent open during refill the refill goes faster and being as how that vent is fairly "high" in the system it helps to burp air out of the system, once fluid comes out of the vent and no air is left to burp by squeezing the upper radiator hose then close the vent and complete filling the overflow (e.g. top of radiator) tank which should leave at most a tiny bit of air in the vicinity of the thermostat. Absent a vent in the top of the tstat housing, the high point of the system, that air has to be purged by driving.

nissanfrontier · **Joined:** Tue Dec 22, 2009 4:09 pm **Posts:** 145

Can I hook up garden hose somehow? Then pull lower hose to get any gunk out. This might be lame question but just how does (top) screw cap come out I have tried! Right now the black tab is aligned with tab on rad. If i turn counterclockwise it moves under 1/2 turn but still stay's on there.

nissanfrontier · **Joined:** Tue Dec 22, 2009 4:09 pm **Posts:** 145

Worked on jeep till 2 last night nice and cool. Right now I have prestone super flush in system ran that stuff hard up steep hill. Coming down the temp of motor got really cold now hum maybe I fixed it. Best way to flush water through system? I pulled both heater core hose and have 2 large hoses to connect. Is top exit and lower in coolant to radiator? Have t fittings to hook hose up to, tap water will be fine for flush. I do remember posts back mentioning hooking to viscous heater hose top or bottom? Also I looked for lower hose and could not find one think hose on right goes to something else.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Tue Jul 03, 2012 10:57 am

Without actually going out to look at routing I can tell you with 100% certainty that the hose from the driver's side of the viscous heater is the main flow into the heater core, as I recall that hose loops over the top of the tstat housing. Where the heater core outflow goes I just don't recall.

FYI there is no "valve" in the heater lines so you really don't have to have the heat on when you flush but it won't hurt. Our cab heat/cold is controlled by blend doors and coolant flows thru or is supposed to flow thru the heater core at all times.

flman · **Posted:** Wed Jul 04, 2012 11:57 am

I just went through the same problem with my 06 Sport. I had the original tstat and an inline. I gutted the OE tstat, and I still had over heating problems. I got rid of the inline, and installed a new OE and all my problems are gone. You also might want to check if their is debris on the rad or AC cond. etc. If you are running hot and the electric fan is blowing out relatively cool air, your tstat is not opening properly. It took me a while to find my problem as it was intermittent, and wife was driving every time it happened.

nissanfrontier · **Joined:** Tue Dec 22, 2009 4:09 pm **Posts:** 145

Yes I was think same thing on factory thermo. It's clearly open, if you pull both heater core hoses and have 2 similar hose to hook up with adapters from walmarts garden center. I managed to get garden hose pumping fluid through and water came through thermo,upper rad hose and drain hose. Let the pressure build burped the system clamps off hoses in case pressures get high. Think water was going through block but can not be certain with all hoses running every which way. My next project is try new factory thermo. Fan clutch is Hayden did not seem to make stink of difference.

flman · **Posted:** Wed Jul 04, 2012 7:59 pm

nissanfrontier wrote:

Yes I was think same thing on factory thermo. It's clearly open, if you pull both heater core hoses and have 2 similar hose to hook up with adapters from walmarts garden center. I managed to get garden hose pumping fluid through and water came through thermo,upper rad hose and drain hose. Let the pressure build burped the system clamps off hoses in case pressures get high. Think water was going through block but can not be certain with all hoses running every which way. My next project is try new factory thermo. Fan clutch is Hayden did not seem to make stink of difference.

Is the air coming out of the fan towards the engine hot while over heating? Is the clutch fan turning fast or slow?

nissanfrontier · **Joined:** Tue Dec 22, 2009 4:09 pm **Posts:** 145

Clutch does not seem to spin all that fast have owned many different jeeps wranglers you could hear fans much more. The factory thermostat with all lines on top. Does it make any sense that working unit in more closed position would push more fluid through motor? I know on most thermos open allows more flow but being this is special design there is something everyone is missing except for guy that just replaced his and problems are gone? Does anyone have diagrams of cooling system and maybe pictures of hoses and how they are hooked up. Just drove up Parley Summit on 180 motor was perfect then heat builds slowly starts creeping 3/4 without trailer in tow

nissanfrontier · **Joined:** Tue Dec 22, 2009 4:09 pm **Posts:** 145

Ok this thermo say's it fits 2005 crd Crown part number. Can I modify this part to work? If I understood hookups better I might be able to install it.

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/J ... 705AB.html

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Fri Jul 06, 2012 4:02 pm

nissanfrontier wrote:

Ok this thermo say's it fits 2005 crd Crown part number. Can I modify this part to work? If I understood hookups better I might be able to install it.

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/J ... 705AB.html

No modifications needed but you'll need a gasket for where it fits to the engine too.

Installed new fan clutch jeep still get's over 3/4 hot

Who is online