nice geordi one more thing for me to buy but at least its not expensive. I am towing this weekend up to the Poconos camping again. It did good on the last trip so hopefully all will be fine this time but it will be hotter.

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2006 Liberty CRD Limited Deep Beryl Green Metallic Clear coat, Fumoto valve, MH ProVent (removed), GDE Eco tune,
OME 790/948 springs, OME struts, OME N132L shocks, Jeepin by Al A-arms, Hercules Terra Trac AT2 245/75R16
Weeks Stage 1 EGR delete, 5 volt steel glow plugs

Picking up the hayden clutch tomorrow morning. I certainly never heard the fan kick on. I'm familiar with that sound from my 1995 GMC suburban diesel days. I don't know about the gauge TSB. I'll check with the dealer tomorrow when I pick up my new power steering pump. I'm assuming that they would have tracked it by VIN. There is only a single tag on the radiator frame that list recall work done as "flash" I'm assuming that refers to the transmission, as I have already verified that it locks up like a truck with the f37...

Will let you guys know what happens this weekend as I'm going to be towing it to the river again.

Thanks

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2005 Black Limited CRD, GDE ECO tune otherwise stock. 165K and hoping for 500K

Best suggestion for your trip then, if there isn't time to get the Hayden in there: Keep your OD locked out on any kind of grade, and let the revs be higher. This will actually LOWER the overall EGT, and your engine will be working less (just doing less work faster) and the minor drag that failed clutch has can help a little bit to pull more air through.

The biggest thing I can suggest however, and this goes for anyone towing - KEEP YOUR SPEED DOWN. I'm a lead-foot-louie on the highway, so this is hard for me too... But just like YOU wouldn't want to run a marathon in 100 degree weather... Neither does your CRD want to do that. Do the grades at 55, flat land at 65... and back off on the A/C (or shut it off) on grades, just because it adds that much more loading and heat to the radiator in harsh conditions. Your engine will thank you by not overheating. The FIRST indication you will get of an impending heat problem is a reduction in AC vent performance (The air goes from COLD to just cool)... This is FAR more sensitive and effective than just the temp gauge, if you are aware of the change. Want to give yourself a quick "what would it feel like" demo? Set the AC on its coldest (probably already is) and with it blowing on you... Hit that little switch with the orange light. That is what it will start to feel like when your radiator is ADDING heat to the AC coils right next to them. Be aware of this and lighten the load on your engine when it happens, or overheating WILL START.

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Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

Got it all back together with the Hayden unit, but too late for the trip to the river. We'll give it a good pull in the next couple days

Thanks for the help

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2005 Black Limited CRD, GDE ECO tune otherwise stock. 165K and hoping for 500K

Just as a follow up and to close out my issue, the new Hayden fan clutch and stock metal fan have cured my heating up issues. Towed the boat around today getting it ready for the weekend and it never budged off 1\2. I will let you all know how it works this summer as things heat up

Thanks for the help
Jason

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2005 Black Limited CRD, GDE ECO tune otherwise stock. 165K and hoping for 500K

Yup - I mounted up the Hayden and the stock metal fan too, as it has been BRUTALLY hot here already. My engine temps have never budged from dead center (with the in-hose thermostat too) but I had felt where the AC was weaker than I know it can be. With that fan in place... Frosty cold again.

Next step will be to get the nylon blades, but none of the boneyards I have tried have them so far, and I'm trying to be cheap and not get from the dealer. Oh well... The search continues.

_________________
Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

Remember, Keith indicated the metal fan moves the most air. I have the plastic fan to lower losses when the clutch is NOT engaged.

DOC

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2005 KJ CRD Ltd Detroit TrueTrac Bilsteins G2 GDE "HOT" ECU GDE TCM "Tow Tune" "euro" TC SEGR Weeks Elbow New HG at 130K ARPs Clean CAT aFe Filter Magnaflow Exhaust EHM Cumminos In-Tank Lift Pump Hayden Fan Clutch Nylon Fan VH Enabled with GDE lower shutoff point Recalibrated Temp Gauge Tekonsha Prodigy Sears P-1 ZDDP

Keith may have said that, but I reserve the right to disagree with him on that. I seem to remember someone actually testing the both of them, and there wasn't an appreciable difference between them.

_________________
Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

As I understand the nylon fan was designed for the Rubicon because it overheated

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Atlantic Blue 06 CRD Limited (his)
Joined by a 2000 XJ Classic (hers)