The Dreaded Alternator Pulley

Hoosier CRD · **Posted:** Wed Aug 08, 2012 6:15 am

My pulley went out post 100k miles too. Killed/drained the battery in a matter of minutes. In Indianapolis at the time there were exactly two (2) alternators immediately available; a dealer on the southside and the Car Quest Distribution Center.

Went to Car Quest and got the lifetime warranty unit.

Yeah, I guess that you can replace just the pulley. Then what you have is an alternator with greater than 100k miles on it with a new pulley. OR, you can just bite the bullet and go for another unit entirely.

I depend on my CRD way too much to be stranded again trying to save a few bucks.

Hope this helps.

FWIW,

Hoosier CRD

audiboy86 · **Posted:** Fri Aug 10, 2012 6:24 pm

Well it is probably a good thing because I have had to do the same thing because I can't seem to find a pulley that will work. I have ordered three so far all of them match the part number I have printed on the one I currently have on there but they were all slightly different. Can someone please explain then part number 53013554AF.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Fri Aug 10, 2012 7:57 pm

They don't work as in don't fit or just don't look exactly the same? 53013554AE appears to have been surperseded by the same # with an AF suffix which can mean a design change or just a supplier change. An alternative is Litens 920720 which as far as I know is the same pulley just with a Litens # instead of Mopar.

FYI there are some cheap substitutes out there that apparently don't hold up to the Diesel system and apparently the Facet reactive pullley is one of those.

Of course as noted if you can get a good price on a lifetime warranty pulley from a national chain why throw a $90 part on an old alternator.

audiboy86 · **Posted:** Fri Aug 10, 2012 11:44 pm

The bore size and even the thread size seems to be different the threads are set further up in the pulley then my current one also. Even though the parts numbers match they are vastly different. Here I have a few photos you can even see the difference in how they are built.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sat Aug 11, 2012 7:03 am

The one on the right "looks" like recent images of the Litens pulley and it appears that the belt portion of the pulley lines up hence I'd guess (for the little that a guess is worth) that if it screws on it would work.

Obviously the "dust cover" that was on the original stock pulley from the factory won't work but that should be no big deal.

You might PM/email "cevans" at ID parts about what they are seeing for this part as they have been putting some effort into making sure the parts are rights.

audiboy86 · **Posted:** Sat Aug 11, 2012 12:27 pm

The top is what is what acttually attaches to the alternator the protruded piece on the back set the internal threads so far forward that I can't even get them started.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sat Aug 11, 2012 2:02 pm

So much for my notion. That's odd

jinstall · **Posted:** Sat Aug 11, 2012 7:02 pm

You know as much time that has been discussed about this, a new alternator with pully could have been purchased and everything would have been new. This was my choice and it was done in less than 30 min.

audiboy86 · **Posted:** Sun Aug 12, 2012 1:52 am

Exactly what I ended up doing but most except mopar for once use cheap pulleys that fail in 15k and then I am back in the same boat. I mean my stock alternator is still testing good with only like a 15 or 16 amp lose.

jinstall · **Posted:** Sun Aug 12, 2012 10:28 am

My alt has a lifetime warranty on it and for as easy as it is to get it on and off I am good with that. I'll never have to pay for another one again do the labor is free and the parts are free and I get a little under the hood inspection time as well.

wifes05crd · **Joined:** Wed Jul 04, 2012 8:28 am **Posts:** 22

I just noticed what is probably noise from alternator pulley. Its hard to tell which side. It gets noticably worse when I turn on the AC and then it sounds like the alternator. The belt seems to be jumping too. Supposed to head out on 6hr trip tommorow returning Saturday. Do these make noise for a while or sieze up or what. Did anyone notice an increase in noise with the AC on?

racertracer · **Posted:** Wed Aug 15, 2012 10:22 pm

wifes05crd wrote:

I just noticed what is probably noise from alternator pulley. Its hard to tell which side. It gets noticably worse when I turn on the AC and then it sounds like the alternator. The belt seems to be jumping too. Supposed to head out on 6hr trip tommorow returning Saturday. Do these make noise for a while or sieze up or what. Did anyone notice an increase in noise with the AC on?

Well it's not a good sign when the belt is jumping.

The cause is most likely the decoupler and if I were you I wouldn't risk the long drive.

Buy the decoupler or buy the whole alternator from autozone and have it installed.

Fix it first, it's cheap insurance against a break down on the road.

rob40wilson03 · **Joined:** Sun Jul 10, 2011 9:43 pm **Posts:** 51

Thread Revival:

I just ordered a new alternator from Advance Auto for 215 after tax (including $70ish core charge) and it will be at my local store tomorrow.

Can somebody point me to some good instructions on how to change the alternator?

Thanks!

Billwill · **Posted:** Wed Jun 18, 2014 5:16 am

rob40wilson03 wrote:

Thread Revival:

I just ordered a new alternator from Advance Auto for 215 after tax (including $70ish core charge) and it will be at my local store tomorrow.

Can somebody point me to some good instructions on how to change the alternator?

Thanks!

You can download the 2006 Service Manual here: http://www.colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/KJ

You will find the procedure under Sections 7 and 8. :wink:

woodtick · **Posted:** Wed Jun 18, 2014 10:47 am

camo wrote:

Any help to get the pully out? I have the alt off the libby and have a wrench hole in the center that allows me to put a 10mm deep socket at the alternator rotor to hold it, but I already broke a 1/4" ratchet and an adapter from 3/8" to 1/4" trying to get it loose and that the darn thing won't even budge. Advise please!!!!
:ALONE:

The way I. Changed mine was to " make" a tool. I cut a cheep Allen wrench off about 2" long and used a socket and an impact wrench. Obviously I also had to prevent the shaft from spinning too.

rob40wilson03 · **Joined:** Sun Jul 10, 2011 9:43 pm **Posts:** 51

Many thanks!

Hoping to save some cash and do it myself.

Auberon · **Posted:** Wed Jun 18, 2014 9:53 pm

OAD's are a consumable item.
Being so remote I keep the OAD clutches on the shelf and always plan to replace at 70 to 80 000 km. Keeps the tensioner, belts and idlers in service for so much longer. A bit of careful buying and you can source Goodyear, Gates, Littens at reasonable prices.
Also keeps the alternator comfortably serviceable well past the numbers being mentioned in this thread but then I have been known to replace slip rings in an alternator from scratch that lasted well past 150 000 miles after being installed. This was in the days before OAD's.

jagster936 · **Joined:** Sun Aug 04, 2019 3:06 pm **Posts:** 212

Hmm, I just tried to do this and it was a normal 10mm bolt in the center; using a good quality socket and powerful impact it just stripped it out, great. Not sure what to do now, probably new alternator.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Fri Jul 17, 2020 10:50 am

jagster936 wrote:

Hmm, I just tried to do this and it was a normal 10mm bolt in the center; using a good quality socket and powerful impact it just stripped it out, great. Not sure what to do now, probably new alternator.

The 10mm bolt head is the actual end of alternator shaft itself. You use it to hold the alternator shaft stationary while loosing the one way clutch pulley using a 17mm hex head wrench as shown in the first picture below.

You can also just use an impact wrench and a 17mm hex socket and spin the clutch pulley off without having to hold the alternator shaft stationary.
I have done it this way a couple of times, but it takes a very GOOD 1/2" or 3/8" drive 17mm hex head wrench to do it this way. You may have to hit it several times to get it turn loose.
Since you have rounded off the 10mm end of the alternator shaft, removing it this way may be your best option.

There are plenty of tool kits online for performing this task manually.
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-57650-Alternator-Decoupler-Tool/dp/B00AGWEUKI

Alternator Pulley Removal Tool Kit

jagster936 · **Joined:** Sun Aug 04, 2019 3:06 pm **Posts:** 212

My dad showed me this now I feel really stupid. I got her swapped when used the Allen I was thinking that was a center bolt like many other pulleys Ive dealt with! Thank you!

In method you describe you need a way to hold the center shaft. Some sort of special tool? Or a 17mm Allen that is hollow so you can hold shaft?

The Dreaded Alternator Pulley

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