Engine quit and won't restart. Need help!

bigjimhardy · **Posted:** Thu Aug 23, 2012 9:02 pm

3000 miles since complete timing belt, rockers, lifters, water pump, cams, turbo,the whole works. I was driving down the road at 70 mph on cruise when I got a shutter and engine died! Not a clue of problems before it died. There was no stumbling or hesitation just a complete and quick shut down. I tried to remove any air in the filter head by priming it and did see that there was some air present. Still no fire! I found that the fuel filter head showed a slight sign of leaking (heater connection) so I have ordered a new one. I just don't believe this is my real problem. Haven't had a chance to check for codes yet. Anyone out there had a similar experience? Any suggestions? :ALONE:

msilbernagel · **Posted:** Thu Aug 23, 2012 11:39 pm

No such experience here - gotta go with 'Codes, for $800"!

Mark

bigjimhardy · **Posted:** Thu Aug 23, 2012 11:46 pm

Thanks loads Mark :ROTFL:

I'm about to go for "junk yard for $200" :grim:

Glend · **Posted:** Fri Aug 24, 2012 2:55 am

When you crank it over what happens? Does it try to start or just turns with no sounds? If air is in the fuel system and has moved beyond the filter head and into the injection pump the then you may need to bleed the injection system and possibly each injector. Sounds like you need a diesel mechanic to check that out.

Billwill · **Posted:** Fri Aug 24, 2012 5:29 am

What happens when you try to start? Any warning lights? Does the SKIS light come on solid or flash?....this is the amber Key symbol with a line through it...if the SKIS ant-theft is installed.

bigjimhardy · **Posted:** Fri Aug 24, 2012 10:32 am

When I try to start it the first couple of revs. it acts as if it will fire up, then nothing. I have several lights in the dash that are burnt out, unfortunately the CEL is one of them. I am going down today to purchase a code reader (something I have needed anyway) so maybe I can get a clue as to what the problem is.

MRausch82 · **Posted:** Fri Aug 24, 2012 10:34 am

bigjimhardy wrote:

When I try to start it the first couple of revs. it acts as if it will fire up, then nothing. I have several lights in the dash that are burnt out, unfortunately the CEL is one of them. I am going down today to purchase a code reader (something I have needed anyway) so maybe I can get a clue as to what the problem is.

Hmm, wonder if the crank position sensor is TU... though it seems to be a problem when warmed up. For it to die suddenly and not run again is not good. I think I would check the timing belt. It is possible something went wrong, though I sure hope not!

bigjimhardy · **Posted:** Fri Aug 24, 2012 12:07 pm

Well ~~~~ purchased a code reader, a Innova 3160, hooked it up and ~ what the h*** No codes!!!!! Now what!!! :dead:

jkbkwarner · **Posted:** Fri Aug 24, 2012 1:40 pm

It could still be the crankshaft position sensor that MRausch82 pointed out. Mine had failed. I was having air in my fuel filter head. Eliminated that as a source with a new filter head and fuel lines from plastic tank head to metal fuel lines. But at times I would be driving and it would die. Started out intermittently and the frequency increased, at the time, I was thinking that bleeding the air was associated. Finally, after work it wouldn't start. Had to have a garage take it. They reported no codes associated just the MAF code, which was caused by the ORM. I told them my findings here on LOST to consider the crankshaft position sensor, 200miles later no problems.

:BINGO:

bigjimhardy · **Posted:** Fri Aug 24, 2012 3:06 pm

Back to the start. It quit on me while driving at a steady speed of 70 with the cruise on, level road. No warning, no lights, just a shudder and instant death. I can't see where a faulty crank sensor would do this. I'm stumped, I'll wait until the fuel filter head arrives and after installing it see if I can get it fired up (I'm betting against this being the problem) if no go I guess I'll drag it to the shop that did the timing belt job (3K miles ago) to have it fixed. :banghead:

Unless someone out there comes up with a miracle cure :juggle:

CATCRD · **Posted:** Fri Aug 24, 2012 3:35 pm

bigjimhardy wrote:

Back to the start. It quit on me while driving at a steady speed of 70 with the cruise on, level road. No warning, no lights, just a shudder and instant death. I can't see where a faulty crank sensor would do this. I'm stumped, I'll wait until the fuel filter head arrives and after installing it see if I can get it fired up (I'm betting against this being the problem) if no go I guess I'll drag it to the shop that did the timing belt job (3K miles ago) to have it fixed.

A faulty crank sensor can do this. Mine quit running in traffic one day, and almost died in a drive thru. Replaced the sensor and all is well. Look up they hair dryer test, it's easy to do.

jkbkwarner · **Posted:** Fri Aug 24, 2012 4:21 pm

I've also seen on LOST that the hairdryer hasn't been conclusive. For me at least, it wouldn't even start cold. Another time after being warm, it shutdown, but within 10 minutes it started and I got to work 20 miles away. After work, it wouldn't start, the garage had it and drove it for 20 minutes without triggering the problem.

bigjimhardy · **Posted:** Fri Aug 24, 2012 4:39 pm

OK I have looked with no results for the hair dryer test !! Where do I go to find it?

CATCRD · **Posted:** Fri Aug 24, 2012 6:14 pm

Here's where I remember it. viewtopic.php?f=5&t=66763&p=733097

You basically just remove the crank sensor and measure for resistance while you put a heat gun or hair dryer on it. It should be about 1000ohms when cool and if it's bad you'll see resistance shoot up or go open circuit.

Here's my thread about it.

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=66905&p=734354

black dog · **Joined:** Sat Dec 27, 2008 11:31 pm **Posts:** 46

A better way to test instead of a hair drier could be to put it in the oven at like 150 to simulate running engine temps. In the oven at a relativly low temp will not harm the plastic and provide a more realistic simulation than a hair drier. I had to chine in and say mine had very similar symptoms, would start cold over and over but not after hot. I could drive to work but not restart untill after like 9hrs of cool down time. I hooked up a scanner and it said cam pos. sensor, 75 dollars later it runs like new and has a much shorter crank time than before. I was pulling my hair out for a week and a half before I figured it out. Now all I need to do so call GDE and stop my ORM because I think it is not smart to do anymore now that these engines are actually needing the check engine light to tell us something is wrong before they won't start up at all. :2cents:

bigjimhardy · **Posted:** Sat Aug 25, 2012 12:50 am

Looks to me like all the problems others have experienced with the crank sensor have to do with not starting when hot but seem to start alright when cold. Mine quit very suddenly while driving and won't fire up at any temperature. I just have to wait until the fuel filter head I ordered comes in install it and go from there. Any other ideas will be appreciated and tried.

racertracer · **Posted:** Sat Aug 25, 2012 2:50 am

Sounds like an electrical problem.............did you check your fuses?

Billwill · **Posted:** Sat Aug 25, 2012 5:02 am

bigjimhardy wrote:

I have several lights in the dash that are burnt out, unfortunately the CEL is one of them.

If you are handy with a small soldering iron you can replace the burnt-out LEDs in the cluster.
First test all the lights by holding down the Odometer trip switch while turning ON the ignition.

Or else look for a cluster at a breaker yard .....there is a small number on the speedometer to show what type cluster you have..mine is a "33".

I believe that working "idiot" lights can help prevent bigger problems.

jkbkwarner · **Posted:** Sat Aug 25, 2012 7:35 am

bigjimhardy wrote:

Looks to me like all the problems others have experienced with the crank sensor have to do with not starting when hot but seem to start alright when cold. Mine quit very suddenly while driving and won't fire up at any temperature. I just have to wait until the fuel filter head I ordered comes in install it and go from there. Any other ideas will be appreciated and tried.

Just because it isn't hot doesn't mean the crankshaft sensor isn't failing. Mine would start and run fine, then at some random point it would die. Normal operating temperatures or cold, it seems to be what caused my problem. After a 9 hour day, it just wouldn't start. I let it sit at work for the weekend. Came in Monday, started right up. Took it for a lunch drive around the campus and it died. Since replacement, I have been driving for 3 weeks without issue. The part isn't easy to get to and remove and it might be worth getting the replacement whether you test it or not. The filter head assembly may have air leaks, but shouldn't prevent you from running again once you've bled the air out. IIRC, GDE wanted someone's bad sensor to maybe see if a code could be programmed to be thrown in these instances.

bigjimhardy · **Posted:** Sat Aug 25, 2012 9:58 am

Checked fuses, no problems there. I know I need to address the dash warning light issue and will do that if and when I get it on the road again. Still can't come to grips with the crank sensor being the issue because I have not been able to get it to fire since it crapped out the other day. Everyone with that issue seems to get their outfit to start eventually, mine won't fire at all. I have removed the fuel filter head and am waiting for the new one to arrive before I can try anything further.

Engine quit and won't restart. Need help!

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