Thanks, That was very helpful.

I decided to buy a new EGR, $265 because my cell has been on for 4 years now and I thought the solinoid might be weak. Had to buy a new FCV because the plastic gears stripped in it. $456, That went out on me at about 50K. My EGR went out at 36,082 miles and dealer said it was out of warrenty but he would be happy to charge me $85 to hook up the code reader.

_________________
2006 Black Limited CRD

It makes sense to buy a new one if it's been that long.....
You'll only have to do the work once too!!! I just go to the
local Advance Auto for code reads..... They use a little Actron
hand-held, but it gets the job done..... Good luck!!!!

John

Had 'Fun' this morning removing ERG elbow and valve, following Benzer's suggestion of getting the Fuel filter out of the way I completely removed it (something we replace before winter every year, so just a little early this year).

The 'long' extension made this possible. I was able to detach the elbow+valve+rigid piping as one; after removing the large ground wires to the started and the vehicle ground the assembly came out downwards past the front prop shaft. Had to loosen the hose clamp on the rigid hose to wiggle it through.



Elbow didn't look that sooted up, and the value is in the open position. How can I check the valve before re-installing? ERG CEL is intermittent, so I suspect valve is OK, but it doesn't look like there's a lot of obstruction...

Re-reading the thread, I think I should explain in more detail what I did... might save others some pain.

0) Disconnect battery
1) Drain and remove the fuel filter.
2) Un-bolt the fuel filter head, but leaving all the hose intact.
3) Remove the 2 outer (driver side) bolt from elbow to manifold. 8mm wrench from above.
4) Remove 2 bolts from rigid exhaust pipe, 10mm socket from below.
5) Remove CAC hose from valve body.
6) Unplug connector from valve body.
7) Remove bolt from top of valve body and 2 bolts holding a bracket on the side. 8mm wrench
Working from below with long-long extension (8mm) remove 2 bolts from elbow and 1 bolt from bottom of valve body.
[The elbow-valve assembly should now be free floating]
9) Remove the large ground wires to the starter motor (13mm) and to the vehicle ground (15mm).
10) Drop assembly drown out of vehicle, had to loosen the hose clamp on the rigid pipe to valve body to gain 'wiggle room'.

Although the elbow didn't look too bad, once cleaning it I found that inlet from the rigid pipe was completely blocked. Hopefully it all goes back together OK, first I need to pick up some replacement gaskets from the elbow-manifold and the rigid pipe-elbow junctions.

Put the ERG Valve and Elbow back in place using the reverse of above, took a little effort getting stuff in place (would have helped to have another person hold it in place as bolt located). Dropped and lost one of short bolts into the bracket on the underside of the valve - but deemed it not to be critical....

However there was a potentially dangerous issue, noticed after assembly was complete - the ground wires to starter motor/vechicle ground were holding a fuel line (from the uppermost connection on fuel filter head) very close to the rigid pipe (which is presumed to get hot).

http://www.flickr.com/photos/24244464@N03/7906959806/sizes/l/in/set-72157631258850946/




I disconnected these wires and moved them to the other side of the fuel line, which allowed the fuel line to be further from the rigid pipe, but I'm not sure that this is the correct routing. Can someone here please advise/confirm...



Cheers,
Simon

After a little head-scratching I disconnected the offending fuel line, plugged with bolt and tried a few routings.... the best seemed to be with fuel line on the 'outside' of the valve, but 'infront' of it (ie. towards the front of the jeep). This seemed to fit with the curves/bends of the line, however I would have prefered to see some clips or something hold it in place (and to prevent rubbing).





Cleared CELs which didn't come back on with a few drives yesterday, lets hope this is fixed.... If anyone writes up a HowTo it might be worth noting the risk/routing of this hose.
Simon.