'06 CRD Smokes worse than my Cumins 12 valve! Help!!

sacax · **Joined:** Sun May 20, 2012 7:35 am **Posts:** 48

ATXKJ, you are right... sorry to have missed it when posting...

geordi · **Posted:** Mon Sep 03, 2012 12:56 pm

DOH! Yeah, I totally missed that too, good catch ATXKJ. Oopsie.

wodmeup · **Posted:** Mon Sep 03, 2012 1:18 pm

What are the possibilities of my FCV being faulty? Could I be chasing my tail over thins silly thing?

Dennis MacGyver · **Posted:** Mon Sep 03, 2012 1:42 pm

Pop the CAC hose off, look in and see if the FCV butterfly is in total horizontal (open) position. That's the position it should be in with the engine off AND the motor running. It only closes when the motor shuts down and then only briefly. The spring mechanism in it holds it open, so if the little motor on it fails, the return spring will make it return to the open position.

wodmeup · **Posted:** Mon Sep 03, 2012 1:45 pm

Okay, in response to my own post, I unplugged the FCV. What do you know, suddenly the engine has some power again. It still smokes LIKE CRAZY, and still knocks very badly if I put a heavy foot on the coal pedal. Are we still thinking turbo problems, or timing or both? The oil level on the dipstick is right at the MAX line. I bet someone over filled the little sucker. Any thoughts?

Dennis MacGyver · **Posted:** Mon Sep 03, 2012 1:54 pm

In reducing the possible problems, drop the oil level to the Minimum line, about 20 oz's.

geordi · **Posted:** Mon Sep 03, 2012 3:34 pm

Dennis MacGyver wrote:

Pop the CAC hose off, look in and see if the FCV butterfly is in total horizontal (open) position. That's the position it should be in with the engine off AND the motor running. It only closes when the motor shuts down and then only briefly. The spring mechanism in it holds it open, so if the little motor on it fails, the return spring will make it return to the open position.

I wish that was the only time the stupid FCV closes, but it isn't. If the computer's nanny system doesn't detect a large enough amount of engine-killing soot being redirected back into the intake from the EGR, it will command the FCV to choke off the intake to force even more suction on the filth-line.

This is why unplugging the MAF sensor is desired - it removes the computer's ability to detect EGR flow, which cancels the computer from even attempting to use the EGR (and conversely) the FCV to increase the flow.

Anytime you are not at WOT, you are at risk of the EGR system activating and closing the FCV - the factory program uses the EGR ALL THE TIME (I seem to recall something like 80-90% egr use) which is partly why they fail after only about 20k miles in service.

It is a distinct possibility that the constant smoking is because your EGR has failed partly open or is stuck open with soot, and you are loosing boost into the exhaust as well as overfueling because of the computer expecting a certain boost amount, and not getting it.

Please note: ALL this information applies to 2005 / 2006 2.8L CRD motors, and any that are the same design... I don't know how the earlier 2.5L engine differs.

wodmeup · **Posted:** Mon Sep 03, 2012 3:59 pm

Good thought. I am going to hunt down that miserable EGR valve next. I made it to Autozone and had the guy pull the engine codes. Please note that I currently have the FCV and MAF unplugged.

P1140 Chrysler code for vacuum reservoir solenoid condition?
P0102 Domestic code for MAF sensor condition? Hopefully I caused this one on purpose.
P0299 Chrysler code for "boost in range low"?
P1189 Chrysler code for "TIP sensor low"?
P0201 Domestic code for "injector circuit condition - injector #1"?
P0202 Domestic code for "injector circuit condition - injector #2"?
P0203 Domestic code for "injector circuit condition - injector #3"?
P0204 Domestic code for "injector circuit condition - injector #4"?
For the injector codes, it lists faulty fuel pressure regulator as a possible cause. I could take a photo of the printouts if you guys would like. I am still thinking that turbo is a crispy critter...

Dennis MacGyver · **Posted:** Mon Sep 03, 2012 4:17 pm

I just had the P0299 code and it was caused by a vacuum line coming off the vacuum center located to the left of the coolant reservoir. This line being disconnected causes the turbo not to work properly. Could be the cause of the whole problem.

To effectively deal with this engine, you must have your own code reader.
With that said, I'd get a tune from GDE and buy their "flash tool" too because it will allow you to read codes & clear them.

CATCRD · **Posted:** Mon Sep 03, 2012 5:43 pm

wodmeup wrote:

Good thought. I am going to hunt down that miserable EGR valve next. I made it to Autozone and had the guy pull the engine codes. Please note that I currently have the FCV and MAF unplugged.

P1140 Chrysler code for vacuum reservoir solenoid condition?
P0102 Domestic code for MAF sensor condition? Hopefully I caused this one on purpose.
P0299 Chrysler code for "boost in range low"?
P1189 Chrysler code for "TIP sensor low"?
P0201 Domestic code for "injector circuit condition - injector #1"?
P0202 Domestic code for "injector circuit condition - injector #2"?
P0203 Domestic code for "injector circuit condition - injector #3"?
P0204 Domestic code for "injector circuit condition - injector #4"?
For the injector codes, it lists faulty fuel pressure regulator as a possible cause. I could take a photo of the printouts if you guys would like. I am still thinking that turbo is a crispy critter...

The first two are from the FCV and MAF being unplugged. The second two sound like your real problem, and the last four just seem like garbage. Are you sure the sensor on the inboard side of the airbox is plugged in well? You might want to pull the plug and re-seat it. See following threads.

viewtopic.php?f=98&t=69442&p=742460

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=46532

wodmeup · **Posted:** Mon Sep 03, 2012 8:56 pm

Does anyone have a complete list of engine fault codes? "Other air box sensor" checks out.

CATCRD · **Posted:** Mon Sep 03, 2012 10:59 pm

wodmeup wrote:

Does anyone have a complete list of engine fault codes? "Other air box sensor" checks out.

Here it is but far from complete viewtopic.php?f=98&t=40073

wodmeup · **Posted:** Tue Sep 04, 2012 12:36 am

For not being compete, that is a pretty good list. I work with a guy driving a CRD and he seems to think there is a service manual available on this site somewhere. Is there anything to this? I tried a search and came up empty handed. Where would I look for a manual?

Dennis MacGyver · **Posted:** Tue Sep 04, 2012 12:45 am

Here's the link to some service & parts manuals for the CRD

http://colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/KJ/

wodmeup · **Posted:** Thu Sep 06, 2012 11:38 pm

So can I do an EGR valve block-off plate and leave everything else plugged in and avoid a CEL?

geordi · **Posted:** Thu Sep 06, 2012 11:43 pm

Nope. You need an SEGR or a Green Diesel Engineering tune to keep the CEL away.

wodmeup · **Posted:** Fri Sep 07, 2012 1:58 am

Looks like we will need a GDE tuner very soon. I understand it reads and resets trouble codes as well? And before I forget, does anyone have a part number/source for a FCV?

geordi · **Posted:** Fri Sep 07, 2012 3:13 am

wodmeup wrote:

Looks like we will need a GDE tuner very soon. I understand it reads and resets trouble codes as well? And before I forget, does anyone have a part number/source for a FCV?

Why do you want the FCV? It is part of the EGR, and used solely to choke off the intake to force EVEN MORE egr flow when the computer isn't happy with how much crap is being ingested, and wants even more soot to scour the cylinders.

You don't want or need it.

wodmeup · **Posted:** Fri Sep 07, 2012 11:23 pm

Geordi,

Should I just take the butterfly off of the little axle inside the FCV? Don't I need an FCV working to avoid the CEL? Or is this where I hear, "Enter the GDE programmer!" ? Is this the tool to have if I am any kind of serious about this little Jeep? I was able to get the turbo replaced because the other one was admittedly junk. If this new one doesn't fix the problem, I am certain a GDE tuner is in my future sooner than anticipated... Will it clear trouble codes for me?

geordi · **Posted:** Sat Sep 08, 2012 1:13 am

The tuner will clear codes for you, yes. You can (and should) remove the disc from the center shaft on the FCV, that is the most effective way to eliminate it, because unfortunately you need it as a spacer in the intake hose length. You shouldn't experience a code due to the FCV, except as it would relate to the EGR not flowing enough...

Which will be solved by a GDE tune or SEGR device. Either one of those solutions plus a block-off plate will ensure you aren't leaking any boost or losing any exhaust into your intake. I blocked both the intake and exhaust ports to the EGR, my tubing (and EGR valve) has mysteriously fallen off somehow.

'06 CRD Smokes worse than my Cumins 12 valve! Help!!

Who is online