Hi guys.
I had to leave the Jeep stranded tonight. There seems to be good battery and everything lights up on the dash but the engine won't crank.

Is it possible that the engine disabler got triggered?

What we had done:
- stopped to see a guy about whatever
- I am not sure if I locked the Jeep when we got out
- the wife used her key to get in but is not sure if it was locked
- she keyed the ignition a few times to check the time with her key
- I got back in and used my key to try to start it

The weird thing is now when I lock it, I don't get the beep confirmation. This is why I am thinking that it may be theft disabled.

Anyway, I have to take a few tools with me and try to get it started.
I left the manual in the Jeep so hopefully tomorrow it can point me to the location of the ignition fuse and relay.

Any advice to give me before I go?
Thanks

Does the SKIM light stay ON or flash when you turn the ignition ON?
This is assuming you have the SKIM system installed.
Either way this should not stop the engine from turning over.

Check the transmission switch is working ie. in neutral.

Check fuse 8 and 28 in the PDC. Try jumpering pins 30 and 87 in the starter relay.

All the circuitry for the remote lock/unlock is in the BCM and the remote key entry module plugged onto the BCM.

I hope you do not have the dreaded "broken ignition switch actuator" problem....you may have to remove the ignition switch to see if the actuator is broken in which case use a small screwdriver to turn the ignition switch while the key is in the ignition barrel.

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2002 Export CRD 2.5 Sport

I'll check. But, as you say, I read last night that the engine should still turn over.


Tried that last night.


This is what I will do first thing this morning. Last night we were in a hurry, of course. Your vehicle NEVER breaks down when you are watching TV with a beer in your hand.


Tow.


Probably still better than a bad BCM.

Thanks. All great advice.
Off I go!

Jeep is home. Shorted out the relay terminal connections.
I will keep you posted.

If you shorted things as in viewtopic.php?f=5&t=61233&p=678574&hilit=+brother#p678574 then you know what it probably is and the PNs for aftermarket parts are in the post. Dorman has a nice little how to video online for the pin replacement.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Quick search showed nothing for member Dorman. Do you have a link?

Translation. Dorman as in http://www.dormanproducts.com/ the video on the install for the Dorman 924704 part is at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W5m31g0- ... plpp_video

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Good vid. Thank you for the link.
I need to go buy a safety Torx T10.

One question though.
The user manual and Dorman both do not mention removing a battery terminal.
Is there a chance if one were to disconnect the battery before doing this operation, that the BCM could store just enough charge to trigger a "I am getting stolen flag" and require dealer intervention to reset after the work is done?

I frankly don't know the answer although if I was to guess the answer is no. The BCM/SKIM looks for a valid key in the ignition (that step is apparently partially skipped if you use a valid key fob to unlock the door but if you use a valid chipped key to unlock the door the alarm will be triggered until you put that key in the ignition) via some sort of little antenna thing near where the key goes in. If the system gets unhappy the horn/light alarm will get triggered and if the car gets started it will only run for a few seconds. Restarting with a valid key solves both problems.

BUT the general rule of thumb on most all of today's computerized cars is to disconnect the battery when you are working on anything electronic. So just disconnect it, doing so might be good and it will certainly cause no harm other than having to reprogram radio settings.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

The problem ended up being a broken piece on the ignition switch actuator pin assembly.

Under-designed in my opinion. Maybe Dorman makes a better after-market part.



Edit: Is Dorman the oem part supplier?

Papaindigo
Thanks for the part number (Dorman 924704).



I still hope for a better alternative. It seems that these get weak over time and fail.

I have no clue who the original supplier is but I do know that this assembly is used on a host of DCJ vehicles going back to 1995. Dorman makes a lot of odd stuff like this that's often not available from dealers. I don't know if this is available from DCJ dealers, perhaps it is but only can be found by a really good parts person, but I do know that at least one forum member had a dealer attempt to sell him a $700 steering column assembly to fix this problem.

Glad this was the cause of the no start as it's a simple and inexpensive fix.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs