I have seen a few motors with problems. When the turbo has failed. I'm at a 150600 miles. I have bought a 3000 pound travel trailer. Im thinking about replacing the turbo before it fails. Thanks for your help.

The turbo is supposed to last at least until first rebuild at 300,000 or so miles. Most do. Replacing one just because you fear it might break one day is not an especially good idea. If you are that concerned, replace the entire vehicle; it'll be cheaper in the long run, as there are any number of parts more likely to break before the turbo does.

This is not to say that turbos never break. And to be sure if it does, it'll be ugly. It's that it is not that likely. Much more likely you will have tire failure. And that could get ugly, too. But who replaces all their tires when they are only half-worn out?

I have done the timing belt timing belt. The fuel filter is already done. I going to replace the Glow plugs this winter with the steel 7volts. Im trying to replace anything that would kill the Jeep. That does make me feel better 300,000 miles.

There have been very few turbo failures on KJ CRDs in Australia and we have had the model since the early 2.5L CRD engines in 2002 (which had the fixed vane turbos). The US, for some reason, seems to have more turbo failures per 1000 vehicles than the rest of the world (based on what I read on LOST, but I have no idea why.

I have noticed some on here. But it seems to be bad when it happens. some lose the motor.

You gotta remember this: posted here are the tales of disaster. NOBODY posts "I have a bazillion hard miles on mine, and it's never needed a thing."

You hear about the problems, not about (nearly all) the successes.

Somewhere there is a line between prudent and timely replacement of wear parts and reckless abandon with the checkbook trying to make absolutely sure EVERYTHING is/performs like new. Replacing the turbo is on the reckless abandon side, IMHO.

A case might be made also for the glow plugs being on that side, although much closer to the line.

Consider worst case: turbo blows and wrecks the entire engine. You have to replace the entire thing, head, block, pistons, turbo, the works. Total cost probably about $5,000 for a good used engine and turbo. Cost of new turbo alone, about $2,000. Makes sense only if your odds were greater than 1 in 2.5 that the turbo was gong to blow (soon). Actual odds probably more like 1 in a thousand. Maybe less. Maybe much less. Especially since it is unlikely the turbo would take the ENTIRE engine with it. Might be just the turbo. In fact, probably would be just the turbo. Think about that a minute. Do you really want to spend the $2,000 now just to prevent having to spend it later?

I have an idea why. drivers here are not as used to driving a diesel. Treating the thing right and letting the engine idle some so cooler oil can get to the turbo before you shut off the engine is not something American drivers are learned to do. look at the owners manual if you are driving faster than say 35 Mph and you park you need to idle 30 seconds or more. longer if you been towing or at highway speeds. I have a habit of parking and not turning off the engine as soon as I'm stopped. I unbuckle, unplug and pocket my cell then change back to my regular glasses if I been wearing sunglasses then turn off the engine when ready to exit. I know its only a little more time but my last few blocks to home is under 35 so not much time is needed. where I do need to think about it is at those rest stops when traveling, often you roll off an express way in to a parking lot, the turbo needs time at idle more so here. if you treat you turbo well it should last as long as the engine or till the first rebuild.

I have to remind myself of that more when I have the popup in tow,

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2006 Liberty CRD Limited Deep Beryl Green Metallic Clear coat, Fumoto valve, MH ProVent (removed), GDE Eco tune,
OME 790/948 springs, OME struts, OME N132L shocks, Jeepin by Al A-arms, Hercules Terra Trac AT2 245/75R16
Weeks Stage 1 EGR delete, 5 volt steel glow plugs

I do give time for cool down. I'm the same way have to remind my self to cool down. When I pull the travel trailer. I allow a lot of time and turn the heater on and pull the heat off the motor. I change my oil a little more than I should. The Green Diesel tune seem to be keeping the oil cleaner. I plan on keeping to the wheels fall off and buy some new wheels.

I addition to the established Turbo Preservation practices like cooling down, having an EGT gauge,
avoid the 0W-40 oil and go for a thicker grade like 5W-40 or 10W-40 like I use. The center section bearings have clearance on both the outside between the housing and the bearing and the inside and the shaft. Use too thin of an oil for the temp and the bearings do not have the cushioning to dampen out very small vibrations, then you can have a catastrophic failure, even if you do everything else right.
Another symptom of too thin an oil is premature wear of the camshaft, rockers, and hydraulic lash adjusters.
The Bean Counter Engineering Excuse for recommending the 0W-40 oil was to increase fuel economy and easy cold weather starting in North America as a "One Size Fits All". Common sense would tell you that the 0W-40 might be OK in the Far North like Alaska or colder parts of Canada in the Winter, but for the rest of North America or the other three seasons, 0W-40 is stupid to use.
Turbo suppliers will go along with any crap the Auto Companies dish out to make the sale, even if it is not the best thing to do.

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2006 Pearl Green CRD
Magnaflow 2 1/2" Cat Back
KJ Extra Leg Room Brackets, Carter Lift Pump, V6 Airbox, ORM
Fuel cooler, Oil Separator, Progard 7
Gauges EGT Boost Trans Temp Oil Pres, Michelin LXT AT2 245 70 R16
7,000# Draw Tight hitch, PML EX Deep Trans Pan
Centrifuge, SunCoast, Transgo, RAM TCM, InMotion Stage 2
Wife's 99 TDI VW Beetle

Rotella T6 5-40 every 3000 miles right now. I just put the Green Diesel tune full torque tune. After a couple of more oil changes. I might go to 5000 miles. I think next summer I will go to a 10-40 oil . Keith said 15-40 want to thick for OKLA summer at 110 in June - Aug.

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06 Jeep Liberty Limited CRD
Biodiesel when possible 1,300 Miles per Acre
Synthetic Lubricants Specialists
http://www.lubedealer.com/ve