Need some clarification on GDE tune as inspection looms

BodhiBenz1987 · **Posted:** Sat Oct 06, 2012 2:11 pm

Hi folks,
I need some advice on my CRD, with the short-term goal of getting it through inspection. Forgive me if this ground has generally been covered; I've done a lot of searching and reading but want to make sure I'm clear on everything before making an investment.
My problem is familiar, check engine light on for ages with P0401 and P0299 (I had a P0101 which went away after cleaning the MAP sensor) ... it runs fine, plenty of power, smokes on hard acceleration but not a terrible lot at part throttle and none at idle. Assuming the EGR valve is stuck shut, I've just been driving it as is, but my state inspection runs out Oct. 15. Lights come on within a couple miles after clearing. I've been toying with the idea of an SEGR or GDE tune for a while, and to be honest just kept putting it off as I focused on countless other projects.
My question is ... if I get a GDE tune, do I still need to address the malfunctioning EGR valve? I prefer the GDE to SEGR because I like the idea of the over-pressure protection being functional, but I am wondering if that feature is not working now anyway with the valve stuck shut? I'd like to have that feature working. At this point if I can just do the GDE tune and have it solve everything, I'd rather do that for $700 for a lasting positive effect than spend $900 to have the dealership replace the valve and have it inevitably fail again (or go to the effort of replacing it myself and have the same happen). I really don't think I can afford to have the valve replaced AND do the tune though. So, is just doing the GDE tune now a good option, or do I need to have a functional system to start before I do it? I know that sounds like a stupid question, because I realize the EGR valve will be largely unused once the tune is in, but I'm worried I could be hiding an overboost problem or other problem by just doing a reflash. Of course, I've been driving around with it like this for a good 10,000 miles anyway ... :roll:

Sorry if I'm missing something here ... most of my experience is with old diesels and all the computer business is a bit foreign to me. About time I learned though.

jlgail4309 · **Posted:** Sat Oct 06, 2012 3:22 pm

I had a post a couple of weeks ago sounds a lot a like hope this helps.
send papaindigo a pm he has been a great help to me.

This is the part # for the BOOST PRESSURE ACTUATOR is like 40.00 google it
this is a sevice manal on that P0299
SOLENOID. Secondary Runner Valve 4606226AC is so easy to replace like 2 min or so .

P0299-BOOST PRESSURE SENSOR POSITIVE DEVIATION
For a complete wiring diagram Refer to Section 8W
² When Monitored:
With the engine running.
² Set Condition:
The Boost Pressure Sensor indicates actual turbocharger boost is greater than the ECM setpoint.
Possible Causes
AIR FILTER
AIR RESTRICTION
CHECKING FOR AIR LEAKS
CHECKING THE BOOST CONTROL VACUUM SUPPLY
BOOST PRESSURE ACTUATOR
TURBOCHARGER
Diagnostic Test
1. CHECK FOR ACTIVE DTC
NOTE: If the ECM detects and stores a DTC, the ECM also stores the engine/vehicle operating conditions
under which the DTC was set. Some of these conditions are displayed on the scan tool at the same time the
DTC is displayed.
NOTE: Before erasing stored DTCs, record these conditions. Attempting to duplicate these conditions may
assist when checking for an active DTC.
NOTE: Ensure all turbocharger inlet and outlet tubes are connected properly, without damage and restriction
before continuing with this test.
NOTE: If DTC P0401 or P0402 is present with this DTC, diagnose P0401 or P0402 before diagnosing this
DTC.
Turn the ignition on.
With the scan tool, erase ECM DTCs.
Test drive the vehicle.
Monitor the scan tool for ECM DTCs.
NOTE: A clogged Boost Pressure Solenoid Air Filter can cause this DTC to set. Inspect this filter and
replace as necessary before continuing with this test.
Did this DTC set again?
Yes >> Go To 2
No >> Test Complete.
2. AIR FILTER
Turn the ignition off.
Remove and inspect the Air Filter for soiling or excessive dirt and debris which may cause air flow restriction.
Were any of these problems found?
Yes >> Replace the Air Filter element.
Perform the ECM Verification Test Ver. 1 (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
No >> Go To 3

3. AIR RESTRICTION
NOTE: Inspect all air intake and turbocharger related tubes for damage, restriction or poor connection. Any
of these conditions can cause a this DTC to set.
Turn the ignition off.
Inspect all air intake, crankcase vent and turbocharger related tubes and connections.
Were any problems found?
Yes >> Repair or replace as necessary.
Perform the ECM Verification Test Ver. 1 (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
No >> Go To 4
4. CHECKING THE BOOST CONTROL VACUUM SUPPLY
Turn the ignition off.
Refer to symptom Checking The Boost Control Vacuum Supply to check the turbocharger vacuum supply system.
Were any problems found?
Yes >> Repair as necessary
Perform the ECM Verification Test Ver. 1 (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
No >> Go To 5
5. CHECKING FOR AIR LEAKS
Turn the ignition off.
Remove the Inlet Pressure Sensor.
Connect smoke machine 84-04 to the Inlet Pressure Sensor port in the intake duct and begin injecting smoke into
the intake system.
Observe all intake system components for evidence of smoke leakage.
Is there evidence of smoke leakage?
Yes >> Repair or replace as necessary.
Perform the ECM Verification Test Ver. 1 (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
No >> Go To 6
6. BOOST PRESSURE ACTUATOR
Turn the ignition off.
Replace the Boost Pressure Actuator in accordance with the Service Information.
NOTE: Ensure the ECM and Boost Pressure Actuator harness connectors are connected.
Test drive the vehicle.
With the scan tool, check for this DTC to set again.
Did this DTC set again?
Yes >> Replace the Turbocharger assembly in accordance with the Service Information.
Perform the ECM Verification Test Ver. 1 (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
No >> Replace the Boost Pressure Actuator.
Perform the ECM Verification Test Ver. 1 (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).

BodhiBenz1987 · **Posted:** Sat Oct 06, 2012 4:28 pm

jlgail4309 wrote:

NOTE: If DTC P0401 or P0402 is present with this DTC, diagnose P0401 or P0402 before diagnosing this
DTC.

Thanks for all the info! I did check/replace the air filter but I can move on to the next steps. Unfortunately I don't have a scanner (I had AutoZone scan it for me) but I guess I should start looking for one. I really love this car, but didn't really ever intend for it to be a project car so I'm kind of frustrated ... I have enough projects, and not enough money. :wink:

Re: the bit I quoted above ... doesn't this imply, like I wondered, that I need to address the EGR situation before anything?

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sat Oct 06, 2012 6:02 pm

Send me an email and I can provide a method, with pictures, to check the boost pressure solenoid (P0401) and maybe help with the P0299 which can be a leaky vacuum hose.

The GDE tune will pretty much clear up EGR problems but you might want to check with Keith about it being stuck shut. FYI it's a bit of a pain but the EGR can be removed and cleaned in lieu of installing a new one. If you want methods I can provide. The GDE tune will take care of smoke and do other good things for your engine life and mpg.

jlgail4309 · **Posted:** Sat Oct 06, 2012 6:04 pm

If you buy a tune from green Diesel you get a code scanner . Plus the tune I bought the full torque tune from Keith. Worth every penny

http://colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/KJ/

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sun Oct 07, 2012 7:04 am

Just a point of clarity on GDE tunes. IIRC you can
1. send in your ECU for a tune - quick turn around using USPS flat rate priority shipping say 4-5 days but you are parked.
2. do an ECU exchange - get programmed ECU send your in as exchange
3. borrow, with deposit, the ECU programming tool and program your ECU on your vehicle and return programmer and get deposit back
Prices for 1-3 are all the same when the dust settles other than ECU shipping costs
4. do the program your ECU unit but keep the programmer in case a dealer reflashes your ECU and to use to scan/clear engine codes - extra cost $195 for programmer. Worth it in my opinion.

jlgail4309 · **Posted:** Sun Oct 07, 2012 5:59 pm

papaindigo wrote:

Just a point of clarity on GDE tunes. IIRC you can
1. send in your ECU for a tune - quick turn around using USPS flat rate priority shipping say 4-5 days but you are parked.
2. do an ECU exchange - get programmed ECU send your in as exchange
3. borrow, with deposit, the ECU programming tool and program your ECU on your vehicle and return programmer and get deposit back
Prices for 1-3 are all the same when the dust settles other than ECU shipping costs
4. do the program your ECU unit but keep the programmer in case a dealer reflashes your ECU and to use to scan/clear engine codes - extra cost $195 for programmer. Worth it in my opinion.

I like mine to check codes on the road.

BodhiBenz1987 · **Posted:** Sun Oct 07, 2012 11:13 pm

Thanks, guys! papaindigo, I sent you an email ... that would be a huge help to get a description of those methods. I'll order the GDE with the scan tool and address the other issues while I wait for it.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Mon Oct 08, 2012 8:13 am

I've posted links to EGR cleaning methods at viewtopic.php?f=5&t=71911 although, check with Keith, I think with the GDE tune you can pull the EGR and plug both input/output and reroute coolant lines.

Good to be able to check codes on road if need be but be aware that leaving a code reader plugged in all the time tends to cause computer system malfunctions and weird transmission behavior. Seems to do so more on 05 than 06 but DCJ computer systems from those years are generally a kludge design of several competing soft/hardware systems that don't behave nicely together and a always on scanner just makes matters worse.

BodhiBenz1987 · **Posted:** Tue Oct 09, 2012 9:13 pm

Tonight I inspected all the hoses and vacuum lines. I found the intercooler lines were covered in oil on the outside, particularly where it connects to the turbo, but when I took the turbo-side one off and inspected, it looks solid (no cracks or holes). Does the fact that they are so wet mean they're kaput, or should I try cleaning them up, putting them back on and see how fast oil reaccumulates? The expense of new ones doesn't sit well with me, but it sits better with me than the idea of a blown hose out on the road. The vacuum hoses, airbox-to-turbo hose and crankcase vent hose all look good.

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Tue Oct 09, 2012 9:58 pm

if it's an original hose - even if you clean it - it will eventually fail

the Oil breaks down the rubber

however the replacements, and Samco's are silicon - oil resistant - they can be cleaned and reused.

BodhiBenz1987 · **Posted:** Tue Oct 09, 2012 10:04 pm

I believe it was replaced in early 2007, but it's the OE hose with the orange inside, which from what I read is the non-silicon lined type. Guess I will invest in the Samco hoses on top of the GDE tune ... looks like I'll have to cut out some other expenses in my life for a while, like food. :shock:

Hopefully all this will pay off with a more trouble-free ride in the future.

DynoPax · **Posted:** Wed Oct 10, 2012 9:02 am

papaindigo wrote:

I've posted links to EGR cleaning methods at viewtopic.php?f=5&t=71911 although, check with Keith, I think with the GDE tune you can pull the EGR and plug both input/output and reroute coolant lines.

Good to be able to check codes on road if need be but be aware that leaving a code reader plugged in all the time tends to cause computer system malfunctions and weird transmission behavior. Seems to do so more on 05 than 06 but DCJ computer systems from those years are generally a kludge design of several competing soft/hardware systems that don't behave nicely together and a always on scanner just makes matters worse.

I have the same wonder about neutering the EGR (reroute coolant & plug exhaust lines). Can anyone confirm this? I will do the glowplugs & intake job before winter and would like to be done with the EGR at the same time, as I noticed some black oily goo coming from there. It actually drips on the starter, all the way down to the bell housing, and may have contributed to my starter going bad. It can be cleaned but I would prefer to render it permanently impotent :goink:

BodhiBenz1987 · **Posted:** Wed Oct 24, 2012 1:45 pm

After a long saga with my dad's Jeep this weekend, I finally got a chance to install the GDE Eco tune on mine, along with replacing the leaking turbo hose with the Samco hose (I also plan to replace the other hose, which is weeping a little). The good news is, the engine light is off, and it seems to run great ... the bad ... it makes a substantial screeching noise (like slowly letting the air out of a balloon) when the turbo spools up under load. Of course, I can't tell where it's coming from. I have to suspect it's a result of something I did while replacing the hose, or while inspecting the vacuum hoses. I had also taken the intake hose off to inspect it and put it back on. I carefully rechecked the connections on the CAC hose and the intake hose, as well as re-inspected the vacuum lines, and I don't see anything out of place. I can post a video of the sound later, but any ideas? The Jeep's registration is now expired, so my test drives are limited to laps around the neighborhood. Don't want to tempt fate by driving it to the DMV with this noise, because something's obviously amiss.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Wed Oct 24, 2012 3:14 pm

Without hearing the sound based on your description it sounds like a boost pressure air leak. I assume by "intake" hose you mean the airbox to turbo hose which you were inspecting for the relatively common tear on the bottom in front of the turbo. If so 1) on reinstall you need to be sure to get the hose all the way upto touching the MAF sensor before tightening the clamp lest you crush the air box outlet (a possible source of the noise) and 2) being sure the CAC hose is properly plugged into the airbox to turbo hose is also important (another possible source of the noise. Did you check the turbo "fan" for play while the airbox to turbo hose was off? When installing the SAMCOs it's important to make sure the clamp is fully engaged on the respective outlets/inlets before tightening the clamp (another possible source of the noise) this is particularly important on the intercooler as those inlet/outlet ports are plastic also. When tightening the SAMCO clamps run them down snug + a bit but no godzilla (recheck in a day or 2). Also the SAMCOs lack witness marks so you need to check carefully to see if they are rubbing anything before and after clamping.

Could be an vacuum line in the vicinity of the turbo vacuum reservoir and boost pressure solenoid that's off or loose or partially cut.

BodhiBenz1987 · **Posted:** Wed Oct 24, 2012 4:08 pm

Thanks papaindigo, I will doublecheck all of the above. I was very careful to get the airbox-to-turbo hose all the way on the airbox tube, since I read on here that it could crush the tube if not all the way down. I think it might be the clamp on the intercooler-to-turbo hose ... it looks like it might be up a little high. I will loosen it, reseat the hose and retighten.

Dennis MacGyver · **Posted:** Wed Oct 24, 2012 5:03 pm

BodhiBenz1987 wrote:

I think it might be the clamp on the intercooler-to-turbo hose ... it looks like it might be up a little high. I will loosen it, reseat the hose and retighten.

The easiest way I've found to get to that hose clamp is to remove the air box and position the clamp to screw from the air box position

BodhiBenz1987 · **Posted:** Thu Oct 25, 2012 4:37 pm

Good news, tinkering with the intercooler hose clamps seems to have stopped the squealing noise. I think the clamp at the turbo outlet was a little too high and thus not seated right. I tried to get the hose as far down as it would go. So, tomorrow I'll hopefully get it through at the DMV and then I can take it for a proper test drive.

BodhiBenz1987 · **Posted:** Fri Oct 26, 2012 11:33 pm

Good news, my CRD passed inspection. So far it's driving great ... feels like I've got more power, the shifts are more comfortable and the mileage has been good (need a little more distance to really tell that though). Thanks for all the advice.
Now I just have to hope it doesn't get blown away in this storm coming up. :shock:

SLS · **Posted:** Sun Oct 28, 2012 11:28 am

Congrats on the inspection!
I also bought the GDE Full torque Eco Tune from Keith to get through a NY inspection.
Had one bad glow plug I had to replace before it would pass. A few weeks later I had to install a set of Samco hoses.
We are good now!

Need some clarification on GDE tune as inspection looms

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