Throwing Overboost P0234 code as accelerate through about 60

papaindigo · **Posted:** Mon Oct 15, 2012 12:29 pm

IDParts has the OEM turbo for $1120. I know nothing about turbochargerpros.com but will merely comment that Garrett won't rebuild their turbos nor will they sell parts to allow their turbos to be rebuilt. For the $320 price difference I'd go with the known quantity of a new OEM Garrett rather than a new turbo of somewhat uncertain origin unless you can get more information about turbochargerpros.com

ChooChooman74 · **Posted:** Mon Oct 15, 2012 1:36 pm

papaindigo wrote:

IDParts has the OEM turbo for $1120. I know nothing about turbochargerpros.com but will merely comment that Garrett won't rebuild their turbos nor will they sell parts to allow their turbos to be rebuilt. For the $320 price difference I'd go with the known quantity of a new OEM Garrett rather than a new turbo of somewhat uncertain origin unless you can get more information about turbochargerpros.com

X2. I picked mine up from ID. Great group of guys to do businesses with.

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pappyrsg · **Joined:** Mon Oct 01, 2012 7:35 pm **Posts:** 70

I agree with the concern, but I haven't yet even asked this supplier about their 'new' turbos nor whether the ones they 'rebuild' have any longevity / reliability track record. I have some experience in choosing vendors from managing engineering departments and parts / equipment purchases for 25 years or so, as well as almost 50 years of working on cars (more serious stuff back in the day, less intense lately... new to the turbo world). As far as whether IDparts is worth the extra $320 (actually it's $325... that's 41% more than the 'new' TurbochargerPro model), we'll see after some research. It looks like IDparts actually has a better price on the OEM Garrett turbo, but I'd like one with better bearings and a generally higher quality design over those originally installed in our '05-'06 Liberties... like maybe one from newer European Liberties (such as the '08 turbos used as base for the great GDE turbos). (Are the OEM Garrett's ungraded from our original stuff?) If anyone out there has any experience with TurbochargersPros, please comment.

pappyrsg · **Joined:** Mon Oct 01, 2012 7:35 pm **Posts:** 70

Pulling the turbo for a proper cleaning... and possible replacement. Any experience-based suggestions on how to get to the bolt closest to the engine holding the turbo's oil drain pipe flange?

ChooChooman74 · **Posted:** Tue Oct 16, 2012 7:32 pm

pappyrsg wrote:

Pulling the turbo for a proper cleaning... and possible replacement. Any experience-based suggestions on how to get to the bolt closest to the engine holding the turbo's oil drain pipe flange?

Did you take the entire bottom bracket off? Then get it from underneath. That is how I did it.

pappyrsg · **Joined:** Mon Oct 01, 2012 7:35 pm **Posts:** 70

Turbo off... not split open yet but not particularly clean looking (a little oil actually spilled out as I pulled it). Will post pics when I break it open. One odd thing I hadn't seen before and didn't expect... a return spring attached to the boost actuator arm. Is that normal?

pappyrsg · **Joined:** Mon Oct 01, 2012 7:35 pm **Posts:** 70

Those of you who've done it... any suggestions on how you got the turbo (exhaust-side) case to split open? (working through rounds of penetrating oil soaking, tapping with heavy plastic hammer, and brass hammer with wood to isolate the steel).

ChooChooman74 · **Posted:** Wed Oct 17, 2012 7:01 pm

That is about it. Tap all around and ot should come apart. I will double check my old turbo when i get home.

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jlgail4309 · **Posted:** Wed Oct 17, 2012 9:31 pm

would take some pic's when u get a little time thanks

ChooChooman74 · **Posted:** Wed Oct 17, 2012 10:24 pm

I will have to do it in the AM. Just got home. Time to relax for a few and cuddle with the pillows.

CATCRD · **Posted:** Wed Oct 17, 2012 11:29 pm

Here are some pics of my spare turbo taken apart. Once you have the 5 bolts off the exhaust side, it should just split apart. There is a sheetmetal ring in there that you need to be a little careful with if you start prying. Otherwise I just did the easy-off oven cleaner job on it and got everything moving smooth. Don't lose the three little bushings that guide the rotating assembly. They just fall out if you turn it over. Pull up on the rotating ring and they all come out so you can clean in there.

pappyrsg · **Joined:** Mon Oct 01, 2012 7:35 pm **Posts:** 70

Yeah... not just splitting apart... darn thing has taken many penetrating oil floods over a day and a half, taps / bangs with plastic hammer, brass hammer over wood, brass hammer direct while in vise, etc. Not really feeling good about trying heat, but not much else left. Suggestions from anyone who has hit this before?

pappyrsg · **Joined:** Mon Oct 01, 2012 7:35 pm **Posts:** 70

FYI... got it apart... took getting to a WTF level of intensity, a 24oz plastic-covered brass hammer, and a good piece of hardwood as a driver. Carbon on surfaces inside make it very clear why boost actuator had trouble moving. Some vanes on the turbo wheel look a bit jagged / damaged, but won't kmow for sure until cleaning done. Pics to follow when / if I can figure out how to post them on this site...

ChooChooman74 · **Posted:** Thu Oct 18, 2012 8:12 pm

Glad u got it apart. Been busy. Use a photo sharing site.

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jlgail4309 · **Posted:** Thu Oct 18, 2012 8:58 pm

http://photobucket.com/ is what i use to post pic

pappyrsg · **Joined:** Mon Oct 01, 2012 7:35 pm **Posts:** 70

OK... he goes on the pics:
dirty turbo after I finally got it open:
http://s1295.beta.photobucket.com/user/ ... 3.jpg.html
cleaned overall assembly:
http://s1295.beta.photobucket.com/user/ ... 4.jpg.html
damaged exhaust turbo wheel:
http://s1295.beta.photobucket.com/user/ ... 7.jpg.html
the edge defects may be the source of my whine / whistle... if I try to clean up the edges, the wheel would likely be thrown off balance, although, that's probably already a fact.

Sent pics to GDE for opinion, but I'm thinking new turbo.

(the vane wheel will be fine after cleanup... still soaking.)

pappyrsg · **Joined:** Mon Oct 01, 2012 7:35 pm **Posts:** 70

Or replace the damaged wheel?...

papaindigo · **Posted:** Fri Oct 19, 2012 8:46 am

New turbo time. The "wheel" is not replaceable as a part although I suppose you could swap in that part of the assembly from a good used turbo but then if you had a good used turbo why bother.

LMWatBullRun · **Posted:** Fri Oct 19, 2012 11:25 am

the cause of your whistle is immediately apparent.

How much play is there in the bearings?
I'm surprised to see so much damage to the trailing edges in something still running...
The Scottish side of me says these ought to be replaceable, but the engineering side says
"BUY A NEW ONE!"

pappyrsg · **Joined:** Mon Oct 01, 2012 7:35 pm **Posts:** 70

Got GDE opinion and will be buying new turbo... would prefer theirs but that would probably take quite a while until they do another batch. If anyone is in dire need of any of my still serviceable turbo parts, let me know... boost actuator, 'vane' wheel, little internal bushings, etc.

Throwing Overboost P0234 code as accelerate through about 60

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