Throwing Overboost P0234 code as accelerate through about 60

Goglio704 · **Posted:** Fri Oct 19, 2012 9:24 pm

Wow. I was hoping it would turn out better for you.

pappyrsg · **Joined:** Mon Oct 01, 2012 7:35 pm **Posts:** 70

Stuff happens... at least I'll know the new turbo will have been properly cared for from new... slobber tube, EGR disabled (eventually GDE tune), appropriate ITU runs, etc.

jlgail4309 · **Posted:** Fri Oct 19, 2012 10:22 pm

Green Diesel turbo next on my list 400 foot pounds of torque no more vacuum line $2500 smacks double sad it so high would already have if price was better. Need about a 100 people to buy maybe then we could save.

CGman · **Posted:** Fri Oct 19, 2012 11:33 pm

Looking at the damage to the turbine, IMHO there has been FOD and/or rubbing on the variable turbo vanes on both this and Choochooman's turbos. Not sure whether it would be bad bearings or whether there can be a failure that allows the vanes to exceed a certain angle that would cause the tips to hit the turbine. Choochooman's pictures do a good job of showing the vane damage.

Maybe metal failure on the vane tips? Once the first piece breaks it would get ugly. here's what happens when you loose a blade on big jet engine.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=en ... AhjSviYVr8

pappyrsg · **Joined:** Mon Oct 01, 2012 7:35 pm **Posts:** 70

Definitely damage to the fins on the exhaust turbine wheel in my pics, likely due to the bearings wearing just enough for those fins to touch the housing, or major pieces of carbon coming by from the internals as I did the ITU runs. Any such carbon or FOD from the turbine would have continued on out the exhaust pipe once in perhaps bounced around a bit, possibly hitting other fins and causing further damage. The variable vanes in my turbo are fine, though they were caramelized-carbon-impeded, thus causing over-spin of the turbo, higher than normal heat, likely bearing wear, and so on. I didn't show the cleaned variable vanes themselves in my cleaned up parts pics since they were still soaking to remove the carbon... they are visible in my first pic showing the dirty internals. They were very dirty, but not damaged... their slight disarray is from being nudged while I handled the parts after diss-assembly. The light colored deposits on those variable vanes is residue from the oven cleaner I had tried before deciding to just remove the turbo from the vehicle to give it a proper cleaning.

ChooChooman74 · **Posted:** Sat Oct 20, 2012 8:24 am

My question. Have you changed your glow plugs? If yes, we're any broken? If no, do you have a CELL for bad glow plugs?

I had a CEL for #1 & #2. Both of those were missing quite a bit of the tip. Where did the tips go? If they went tout the exhaust to the tight confines of the turbo and banged around in there.... Get my point?

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pappyrsg · **Joined:** Mon Oct 01, 2012 7:35 pm **Posts:** 70

No codes other than stated in title of this thread.

pappyrsg · **Joined:** Mon Oct 01, 2012 7:35 pm **Posts:** 70

Apologies to CGman and ChooChooman74... there actually is one damaged variable vane. If you zoom in, you can barely see the damage in my 'dirty' turbo pic, on the wheel at about 1:30 there's a fin that looks a little short... because it is. Its thin end is slightly chewed and bent. Could be where the material came from that ate the exhaust turbine... but what ate the fin? Guess I'll check those glow plugs.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sat Oct 20, 2012 11:11 am

That looks like pretty classic fin tip contact with the housing damage due to worn bearings not something passing thru the turbo. Have you looked at the housing for signs of contact adjacent to these fins?

pappyrsg · **Joined:** Mon Oct 01, 2012 7:35 pm **Posts:** 70

After cleaning, found several other vanes damaged. No apparent housing damaging / marring from vane contact. I'll be checking the glow-plugs just in case, but the old turbo is being set aside... not worth any more investigation time.

pappyrsg · **Joined:** Mon Oct 01, 2012 7:35 pm **Posts:** 70

Preparing to install new turbo when it arrives... seems odd that there is no o-ring or other sealing gasket on the oil drain tube, other than the smooth machined surface. (The parts manual diagram also shows nothing there) Is this right?

papaindigo · **Posted:** Mon Oct 22, 2012 2:33 pm

Chuckle it's not entirely clear. There is a "seal" at one end but it's not much and in fact your original seal may very well still be in the block. It's just a short (1" or so) rubber sleeve that fits into the block and the return line slids into that sleeve (works ok since oil is not under pressure there or much pressure). PN 5142794AA cost under $10. While you can probably reuse the old one I'd get a new one. See below for the other end.

Just to be sure we are talking about the same thing. The oil return line is about 1/2" in diameter - one end is smooth with a ridge 1" or so from the end where it fits into the above sleeve and the other end has 2 bolt holes where it attaches to the turbo. There is "supposed" to be a gasket on that upper end (one came with my GDE turbo) but the parts fiche does not show it. I suspect a good dealer parts person could find the gasket PN or alternatively you can easily make one out of good gasket material. The oil feed line is about 1/4" in diameter and has a ball like fitting at one end and a banjo fitting at the other with no gasket.

pappyrsg · **Joined:** Mon Oct 01, 2012 7:35 pm **Posts:** 70

We are talking about the same thing... the old oil drain line to block seal looks fine, no sign at all of any leakage, but I agree replacing it would be a good idea... just too darn hard to replace later. Ordered that and two brass washer pressure line seals from the local dealer... too much time and fuel wasted running around trying to find suitable sub for the brass pressure line seal, given I got the dealer to come down from crazy high price to $1.50 each. Odd, his price on the drain-line-to-block seal ($8.50) was lower than on-line sources. I'll make my own drain line to turbo gasket... another failing of the parts fiche manual (at least three I've found in the turbo area so far). Do you think Chrysler has any understanding of the words 'revision process'?

ChooChooman74 · **Posted:** Mon Oct 22, 2012 4:02 pm

pappyrsg wrote:

We are talking about the same thing... the old oil drain line to block seal looks fine, no sign at all of any leakage, but I agree replacing it would be a good idea... just too darn hard to replace later. Ordered that and two brass washer pressure line seals from the local dealer... too much time and fuel wasted running around trying to find suitable sub for the brass pressure line seal, given I got the dealer to come down from crazy high price to $1.50 each. Odd, his price on the drain-line-to-block seal ($8.50) was lower than on-line sources. I'll make my own drain line to turbo gasket... another failing of the parts fiche manual (at least three I've found in the turbo area so far). Do you think Chrysler has any understanding of the words 'revision process'?

Don't you love how the turbo is located in the Fuel Section???

pappyrsg · **Joined:** Mon Oct 01, 2012 7:35 pm **Posts:** 70

Yea, well... I would, except I had to cope with documentation folks for 30 years in engineering... could never get them to break things up in a manner logical to anyone who ever actually worked on them. Sometimes, it was far more hilarious than this manual... :lol:

pappyrsg · **Joined:** Mon Oct 01, 2012 7:35 pm **Posts:** 70

New turbo should be here tomorrow... to install Wednesday. Given papaindigo's post last week... 'looks like pretty classic fin tip contact with the housing damage due to worn bearings not something passing thru the turbo' , I'm thinking I won't mess with the glowplugs. Plus, no sign anywhere in the housing of anything having passed through from the engine, plus no damage in the exit path through the exhaust turbine blades, plus the engine started, ran & sounded fine, except for the bad turbo bearing whine, with no CEL or codes (setting aside my original overboost code).

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sun Oct 28, 2012 7:19 am

For what it's worth I'm leaning toward proactive replacement of the ceramic glow plugs with the 7v Etecno1s although I'll also confess that a set has been sitting on the table here for about 1 year uninstalled.

racertracer · **Posted:** Sun Oct 28, 2012 10:28 am

papaindigo wrote:

For what it's worth I'm leaning toward proactive replacement of the ceramic glow plugs with the 7v Etecno1s although I'll also confess that a set has been sitting on the table here for about 1 year uninstalled.

Papa,

I tried to do the job yesterday and the puckering factor stopped me.
I sprayed the area with penetrant and waited, found out that they're in there tight

Number one didn't want to come out, it stopped turning so I tried a back and forth motion but it didn't help, so I buttoned everything back up and sprayed more penetrant hoping that it will free it up by next weekend.

Hurricane Sandi isn't making things easy either. I'll be patient and wait.

ChooChooman74 · **Posted:** Sun Oct 28, 2012 10:53 am

racertracer wrote:

papaindigo wrote:

For what it's worth I'm leaning toward proactive replacement of the ceramic glow plugs with the 7v Etecno1s although I'll also confess that a set has been sitting on the table here for about 1 year uninstalled.

Papa,

I tried to do the job yesterday and the puckering factor stopped me.
I sprayed the area with penetrant and waited, found out that they're in there tight

Number one didn't want to come out, it stopped turning so I tried a back and forth motion but it didn't help, so I buttoned everything back up and sprayed more penetrant hoping that it will free it up by next weekend.

Hurricane Sandi isn't making things easy either. I'll be patient and wait.

Been there. It does NOT take much to snap one off. Per my diesel mechanic, my #4 was not going to come out by itself. Fortunately and unfortunately, for me, snapping it off has opened up a can of worms and finding a lot of issues...rockers/lifters broke and scored cams. I am hoping to have averted a disaster.

I would be prepared for a head removal as a worst case scenario.

racertracer · **Posted:** Sun Oct 28, 2012 11:13 am

[quote="ChooChooman74I would be prepared for a head removal as a worst case scenario.[/quote]

That is what I am tryin to avoid.... if that happenes it will be my third time to see one of my CRD heads come off. Once before with my previously totaled CRD due to a blown head gasket. The second time was the same CRD with the same head gasket problem re-occuring within 3 months after the work was done.

It is not fun and not cheap.

Throwing Overboost P0234 code as accelerate through about 60

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