Buying CRD need some advice

8wr_zj · **Joined:** Thu Oct 11, 2012 2:10 pm **Posts:** 5

I have read the noob guide and have been lurking for awhile. Found a jeep local to me for sale wanted to gets yalss opinion. Drove it for 200 miles over the weekend. ran good drove good. No leaks and everything works. Anything too look out for when buying one. The one i drove has a wix filter head and filter. your thoughts?

http://www.siegfriedmotorco.com/inventory/view/5916929/2005-Jeep-Liberty

CRD05il · **Posted:** Tue Oct 23, 2012 2:00 pm

Don't forget you will have to do the timing bet in few miles!

click23 · **Joined:** Thu May 11, 2006 9:22 am **Posts:** 309

It has an aftermarket CAC hose and fuel head, and filter. I'm sure someone here will be able to tell you exactly what they are.

click23 · **Joined:** Thu May 11, 2006 9:22 am **Posts:** 309

And a V6 air box. All three are common mods.

painemann · **Joined:** Sat Dec 20, 2008 7:02 pm **Posts:** 607

The only advice I can give you is buy it if you have a deep wallet OR if your able to solve technical issues and work on your own vehicles regularly!!!!

geordi · **Posted:** Tue Oct 23, 2012 3:13 pm

The previous owner also installed a coolant flush port (look above the thermostat hose) so with each of these mods, it looks like this might have been owned by a member or at least a lurker here.

Anyone want to volunteer that it was theirs?

No signs of a CCV / EHM mod, and the wiring looks clean so if it has an SEGR, it is a very stealthy install.
Not a bad price considering, obviously whoever owned it knew more than the average bear about these, so it could be a good deal.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Tue Oct 23, 2012 3:25 pm

Thoughts:
1. X2 on the timing belt and that needs to be factored into what you pay. Full TB job with Water Pump parts along runs ca. $600 depending on where you shop and the job with WP takes somewhere on the order of 5-8 hrs depending on tools and experience level.
2. Whoever the PO was they knew a thing or 2 about the vehicle so I wonder if it has a GDE tune. Call Keith with the VIN and ask (NOTE those mpg figures are realistic only with the GDE tune otherwise it's more like 18/19-27/28). I say this as it has a) the gasser high mount air intake; b) as noted aftermarket CAC hose at least on the passenger side based on orange color but I don't know what brand (never seen Samcos with a woven covering): and the filter head appears to be the Racor (viewtopic.php?f=98&t=36977) with a fuel heater added.
3. looks like a Prestone flush-n-fill "T" installed in a heater line. I think it's the one from the viscous heater to the heater core. If so it's likely a good coolant flushing tool.
4. invoke an instrument cluster test (by holding the trip odometer button while turning the ignition on) to make sure all the bulbs and gauges function properly especially that the CEL light works. I cannot find a nice simple summary of what it does in sequence but the 2006 FSM (download from NOOB site), which refers to this as the Instrument Cluster Self-Test, (beginning on page 8J-65 and scattered thru various pages to 8J-87) does discuss what the test is supposed to do with respect to various lights and gauges on the dash.
5. coolant looks like very light pink which suggests it's the proper HOAT coolant
6. not sure what they mean by "steering wheel controls" but if that's a reference to the buttons on the "back" of the steering wheel that control the radio (see Owner's Manual which can be downloaded from the Jeep web site or may be hiding on the upper shelf in the glove box) be sure the check and see if they work with the aftermarket radio (they should but it requires special wiring to do so). FYI if any of the door speakers "buzz" they will have to be replaced (expensive as the front speakers have an integrated amp) or will need new surrounds (aka refoam) kits installed.
7. cannot see the battery but if it really is 600CCA that's about 100CCA below the minimum requirement. Figure a new Interstate 85 month group 34 battery will run ca $125 with 800CCA
8. I have no clue what they mean by "Enhanced accident response system". As far as I know, have owned 2, there is no such thing on the 05 model. The 06 model had electronic stability control which is likely what is being referred to.
9. BOTH external mirrors should be power controlled from the driver's side

From what I can see it looks clean and lightly modified by a PO who had a clue regarding some of the basic mods for the CRD which is a good sign. I suspect the PO decided to move on before the TB job became necessary at 100,000 miles.

8wr_zj · **Joined:** Thu Oct 11, 2012 2:10 pm **Posts:** 5

Kinda on the same level as what I was thinking about all the mods. PO must have had a clue about the crd! Carfax checks out clean. Thanks for all the help y'all I will check cel and cluster along with calling gde!!! Thanks for the help. Thanks for the help. Anybody have anything else? Ate these little diesels reliable? We are buying this for our vehicle to travel in. As far as working on it I am confident I can fix anything on it. I just do not want it breaking down on us all the time. I have a superduty with a 12v cummins and I am looking for a new rig for the wife to drive daily. Must be a diesel I get it free from work.

2mopar_diesels · **Posted:** Tue Oct 23, 2012 10:05 pm

I'd also look to see if it has an electric lift pump installed as well.

On a side note, whoever winds up buying mine from the dealer we traded with is going to get an amazing deal and surprise!!!!

Collingwood · **Joined:** Sat May 01, 2010 9:53 am **Posts:** 24

If it idle at about 1000rpms for the first second or two after you start it, then it has a GDE tune, and if it doesn't then you probably have a factory tune. Also check to see where the lowest speed that the transmission shifts into 5th & locks up, and what's the lowest speed it unlocks and down shift to 5th. It probably has the F37 dealer detune program if it won't 5th under 58mph.

If they will let you test it by towing something heavy (like a 3K-5k lbs trailer) a short distance up a steep hill (maybe hard to find in OK) to see how the engine temps go and transmission shifts under a large load at highway speeds of 65-70mph. If it can maintain speed and not over heat and the transmission shifts well with no TC shudder, you should have yourself a good modified CRD with a good TC, & clutch fan.

Did you check to see if the fan clutch works? You need to see how hot it gets before it comes on (don't get it too hot if it won't come on). If they didn't replace the clutch fan you will probably need the better Hayden clutch if you plan to tow anything any distance or climb a mountain in the summer.

The black mesh on the CAC hose was probably taken off the factory hose and put on the aftermarket hose, which is probably useless as most aren't tight enough to keep the hose from expanding under pressure.

Also make sure there is records of the transmission fluid being changed around 60K or you will need to change about 10 quarts of $3+ fluid and filter now (expensive for a tranny service).

Your wife will need a really light foot to get good MPG (like 30 MPG) and keep it on the highway, or get a good quick shifting TCM tune (from GDE or a 03' hemi TCM) for light footed city driving.

Hope all goes well!

papaindigo · **Posted:** Wed Oct 24, 2012 8:11 am

I knew there was something I forgot. Once driven for 5-10 miles, maybe less if it's a really hot day, to get the engine up to operating temp the temp gauge in the dash should read somewhere between dead vertical and 1 tic left of vertical. Anything less means the OEM tstat has failed open or is opening early. Cheap fix that I'm not personally wild about, just my nerves, is an inline tstat or a DIY replacement of the OEM tstat and it's gasket which runs about $125 if you shop around a bit.

As to reliability, again my personal opinion, the basic systems in common with the gasser KJ (body, suspension, brakes, etc) are no more or less reliable than on the gasser and those parts are easy to get. The transfer case as far as I know is a basic KJ transfer case and the 545RFE transmission is a very common one on other DCJ products but the torque converter is limited to the CRD. That TC (the "F-37" one) could be stonger but it's typical failure mode (setting aside a couple of folks whose flywheel bolts let go) is the exhibit a "shudder" under load. That shudder can be "driven around" so one does have a bit of time before TC replacement is necessary. Use of proper fluids (ATF, coolant, oil, etc) generally will prevent problems with the systems that depend on the fluids. Adding a lift pump, PM or email me if you want links, is a good idea that can be done for ca. $50 if you go with and inline Facet.

Weak points IMHO
1. oil passages are very small hence use of proper oil combined with regular oil and oil filter changes is critical. I part company from those that advocate long oil change intervals and highly recommend no longer than 6,000 miles. Use an oversize filter with 7qts of oil (simpler than the stock filter and 6.3 qts of oil) and maybe install a Fumoto drain valve with safety clip to make oil changes easy.
2. going along with the above the turbo can die pretty quickly with major engine damage due to oil and bearing issues plus maybe a tear in the air box to turbo hose (on the bottom just in front of the turbo). I've been bad by am now trying to be good and check that hose and the turbo "fan" shaft play at each oil change.
3. ABSOLUTELY CRITICAL but no more so than on any other "interference" engine built in the history of internal combustion is to replace the timing belt at the 100,000 mile interval. With the right tools, Miller or hand made (no drill bits or allen keys for intake/exhaust cam shaft pins) it's a DIY project for a weekend day although it is helpful if there is a forum member with experience in your vicinity. IMHO I'd add a time factor to that 100,000 mile interval to say ca. 6yrs or 100,000 miles whichever comes first. The earlier swap is just the belt while the 100,000 mile one should include pulleys/tensioner and maybe water pump.
4. poor or spotty support from DCJ dealers as not that many were sold in the US which means parts typically are not on the shelf at a dealer and finding a mechanic on the road is certainly an issue. Hasn't stopped me or stoutdog from long trips though.

8wr_zj · **Joined:** Thu Oct 11, 2012 2:10 pm **Posts:** 5

Thanks guys these are all things I will look into when I go and drive it again. I really appreciate the insight y'all are giving me it's helps me make a good decision. What about the price. We agreed on 8750 plus tt&l. Also thought on a bypass oil filter. I have one on my cummins and it helps quite a bit.

geordi · **Posted:** Wed Oct 24, 2012 11:52 am

Anything you do to keep the oil clean can only benefit the engine. A bypass oil system was in my mind, but I didn't get to it before my CRD had other ideas about life.

There is a hex socket plug on the front of the oil pan, this is NOT a drain plug - instead, it is actually a connection to the high pressure side of the oil pump, in between the pump outlet and the factory filter inlet. I was thinking of installing a bypass centrifuge filter system here, and plumbing it back to the oil pan from there.

My only concern was diverting too much flow away from the critical engine surfaces.

LibertyCRD · **Posted:** Thu Nov 01, 2012 3:41 pm

They are finicky but with the proper care they make excellent SUVs.

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Thu Nov 01, 2012 4:08 pm

8wr_zj wrote:

Thanks guys these are all things I will look into when I go and drive it again. I really appreciate the insight y'all are giving me it's helps me make a good decision. What about the price. We agreed on 8750 plus tt&l. Also thought on a bypass oil filter. I have one on my cummins and it helps quite a bit.

thats a good price even considering you will need a timing belt job soon.

ChooChooman74 · **Posted:** Thu Nov 01, 2012 6:05 pm

Glow plugs, IMHO, should be swapped out. A few broken engines have resulted from broken plugs. For me, although just a theory, broken plugs were part of my turbos demise...as well as lack of maintenance from the PO.

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Drewd · **Joined:** Mon Feb 06, 2006 12:24 pm **Posts:** 902

The fuel filter head is a Racor 245 unit and it has a Omega temperature sensor. You can't get a better fuel filter head.

ChooChooman74 · **Posted:** Sat Nov 03, 2012 10:19 pm

Drewd wrote:

The fuel filter head is a Racor 245 unit and it has a Omega temperature sensor. You can't get a better fuel filter head.

Got one in the UPS on my way....

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Buying CRD need some advice

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