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 Post subject: Blown Engine
PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2012 1:24 pm 
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Hi guys, well the worst has happened. Driving down the highway at 70 mph and lost power and started smoking. Rolled to the shoulder and had it towed to my local mechanic (who I trust pretty well). He put his diesel guy on it and he found that it dropped a valve into the cylinder on #4. He's willing to try and sneak a scope into the cylinder and see how bad the damage is, but he's not even a little optimistic. His proposal is a rebuilt engine from Chrysler. He can order it and put it in for about $8,000. This is way out of my league especially since I just bought the Jeep last month. Anybody have any thoughts on rebuilt engines? Best place to get one for a better price? Any chance the engine is repairable? Sounds pretty dire. =(

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 Post subject: Re: Blown Engine
PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2012 1:40 pm 
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clehmann wrote:
Hi guys, well the worst has happened. Driving down the highway at 70 mph and lost power and started smoking. Rolled to the shoulder and had it towed to my local mechanic (who I trust pretty well). He put his diesel guy on it and he found that it dropped a valve into the cylinder on #4. He's willing to try and sneak a scope into the cylinder and see how bad the damage is, but he's not even a little optimistic. His proposal is a rebuilt engine from Chrysler. He can order it and put it in for about $8,000. This is way out of my league especially since I just bought the Jeep last month. Anybody have any thoughts on rebuilt engines? Best place to get one for a better price? Any chance the engine is repairable? Sounds pretty dire. =(


More info would help.
Mileage?
Has TB been done to your certain knowlege?
If it is a timing belt skip then the rocker arms are readily replaceable....... At much less than 8 k. Have the mech check the timing alignment with the three pins. That will tell the tale. If the TB alignment is off then it is likely a jumped/stripped TB. If not then things get more involved. That is what i would do if faced with this issue.

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 Post subject: Re: Blown Engine
PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2012 2:00 pm 
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Sorry, yeah, more info would be good. =) ...kinda in shock still. It's an '05 Limited with 119k , TB has NOT been done (just bought it and wasn't sure, so was planning on doing this in Oct). Mech checked the TB and said it look ok (i.e. not broken). I'm not sure if he has checked the marks though. His big tell from this morning is that they put some compressed air into the cylinder and there isn't any compression on Cyl #4- one of the valves is not seating or broken. His fear is that the rocker arm broke and since it's an interference engine it would damage the head. (I'm winging his explanation here, so I may be missing some details that he explained better) He volunteered to try and to scope the cylinder through a glow plug socket to check the damage and I'll definitely ask him to check the timing marks.

Thanks for the quick reply and suggestions.

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 Post subject: Re: Blown Engine
PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2012 2:31 pm 
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It's certainly possible that it dropped a piston into a valve as that's happened at least once but on the scale of things that's relatively unlikely. Here is what I can tell you based on the limited information at hand.
1. loss of power and smoke WITHOUT somewhat obvious engine noise could be as simple as blown intercooler hoses. So ? what noises did you hear? Was engine still running?
2. unless the mechanice disassembled the front end of the engine (remove fan shroud, remove fan, remove various "things", remove timing belt cover) then A) he did not look at the timing belt rather he looked at the serpentine belt and B) he has no clue about this engine.
3. there are no timing "marks" to be checked. Rather there are intake and exhaust cam pins and a flywheel pin that can be used to check and set engine timing during a timing belt install or after engine tear down. In theory they can be used to see if timing is off but only per FSM
4. lack of compression when air pressure is feed into cylinder X tells you abolutely nothing except that air is going out of the cylinder which can be for a variety of bad reasons or a simple reason such as that piston's valves are open or partially open as it's sitting on the normal intake or exhaust stroke. Sorry for the rather obvious comment but when one is as worried as you are the obvious may slip by.
5. if in fact you had bad engine noises when you had loss of power and smoke it's certainly possible, at 119k, that your timing belt slipped or broke (if former engine would run with bad noises; if latter engine won't run). Yes this, like any diesel, is an interferance engine BUT in the event of timing failure the valve rockers are designed to collapse and save the valves and pistons; has happened to several. Fix is to pull head and install all new rockers and lifters which runs ca. $1000 parts and labor.

Where are you? As noted above I have my doubts that the referenced mechanic has a clue about this engine. Not a good start if he is willing to listen to forum suggestions and read the FSM sections. Depending on your location there may be forum help relatively close by.

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 Post subject: Re: Blown Engine
PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2012 3:09 pm 
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papaindigo wrote:
It's certainly possible that it dropped a piston into a valve as that's happened at least once but on the scale of things that's relatively unlikely. Here is what I can tell you based on the limited information at hand.
1. loss of power and smoke WITHOUT somewhat obvious engine noise could be as simple as blown intercooler hoses. So ? what noises did you hear? Was engine still running?
2. unless the mechanice disassembled the front end of the engine (remove fan shroud, remove fan, remove various "things", remove timing belt cover) then A) he did not look at the timing belt rather he looked at the serpentine belt and B) he has no clue about this engine.
3. there are no timing "marks" to be checked. Rather there are intake and exhaust cam pins and a flywheel pin that can be used to check and set engine timing during a timing belt install or after engine tear down. In theory they can be used to see if timing is off but only per FSM
4. lack of compression when air pressure is feed into cylinder X tells you abolutely nothing except that air is going out of the cylinder which can be for a variety of bad reasons or a simple reason such as that piston's valves are open or partially open as it's sitting on the normal intake or exhaust stroke. Sorry for the rather obvious comment but when one is as worried as you are the obvious may slip by.
5. if in fact you had bad engine noises when you had loss of power and smoke it's certainly possible, at 119k, that your timing belt slipped or broke (if former engine would run with bad noises; if latter engine won't run). Yes this, like any diesel, is an interferance engine BUT in the event of timing failure the valve rockers are designed to collapse and save the valves and pistons; has happened to several. Fix is to pull head and install all new rockers and lifters which runs ca. $1000 parts and labor.

Where are you? As noted above I have my doubts that the referenced mechanic has a clue about this engine. Not a good start if he is willing to listen to forum suggestions and read the FSM sections. Depending on your location there may be forum help relatively close by.



Thanks papaindigo, I'll try to break down what I know and I'll try to talk to the shop again later today to clarify what he has checked and how deep he has gone.

1. Definitely lots of engine noise. Engine ran terribly rough. Sounded like mechanical interference to my untrained ear. My first fear was that the TB had skipped and thrown the whole thing out of timing. When I got off the road I shut it down and did an initial once-over to see if there was anything obvious - fluids, belts hoses... Nothing jumped out. I tried to start it again and it sounded so bad that I just shut it down and made the call for a tow. Bad = extremely rough/loud, barely staying at idle, spastic RPM's

2. I'll confirm that he did not check the serp belt, but I'm pretty sure he didn't. On the side of the road I actually found that it's really easy to take a "peak" at the timing belt by just removing 3 screws at the top-front of the block on the black cover plate. You can only see the top 2 gears and about 8 inches of the belt, but I'm sure this is what he used to roughly guess that the belt hadn't been changed when I went in for service a few weeks ago to have it checked out and have the tstat replaced. In this case he may have torn down more of the front end of the engine to do a full check, but I'll have to confirm.

3. Good to know. If it comes into question I'll relay that.

4. Yeah, this is a fair argument. I'd have to clarify what he was actually doing, because it doesn't make sense when you stop to think about it. I do think they did a compression test on each cylinder and they concluded that Cyl #4 had zero compression, but I don't know where they went from there or how they administered the test. They have only had the vehicle for a couple of hours, so these are initial observations and I'm asking for a bit more detail this afternoon, so we'll see what comes of that.

5. I'll definitely mention that this is a reasonable option. His fear was that something fell into the cylinder I think, so scoring would have made a rebuild unreasonable.

I'm in Fort Collins, Colorado. I know there are other CRD's in town, so I'd be happy to hear input if there's a location in town that really knows these engines. I can tell from a brief experience that my local dealer does NOT fall into that category. They are the ones that tried to tell me that my stuck open tstat was an electrical issue and they would need to monitor it for a few days to figure it out. (haven't been back) I would be open to trailering it to another dealer in the area or certainly a mechanic who knows the engine. I would say that my local guy isn't an expert on this engine, but he's reasonable and knowledgable and covers diesels in general. If I have another lead he won't give me a hard time about taking it to an expert. And he's not necessarily asking for my input from the board, I'm just a troubleshooter and I can't help myself.

All of my info so far from the mech is based on a 20min conversation this morning after he'd had the truck for 2 hrs, so I'll try to get some better details this afternoon.

Thanks again...

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 Post subject: Re: Blown Engine
PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2012 4:01 pm 
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Best to put brakes on what you are doing immediately at least for now. Given your location you and/or your mechanic need to be talking to Sir Sam (aka Sam Slaten - PM and email him) who is also in Colorado and has ample experience bringing these vehicles back from the dead. IIRC he is also in Ft. C but might be in C. Springs.
1. yep belt jumped
2. interesting, I'll keep that in mind, but won't tell you much although it might tell you the belt is broken but since you could crank and fire we know the belt is not broken.
3. Sam has the tools and knowledge but my bet is belt jumped 1-2 teeth and trashed rockers.
4. only way to do a true compression test would be to run engine. Doubt they did that under the circumstances and IIRC requires a special Miller tool to do. More likely they did a simple air injection thru glow plug or injector holes and got a leak on that cylinder. At least that's my hope cause if they did a real compression check and a cylinder had zero that's definitely not good.
5. depends on getting parts. Rockers and lifters are not that big a deal set of 16 and runs about $60 per set. If you lost a valve the engine is "wet" sleeve so if you can get the sleeve redoing a cylinder is no big deal assuming you can get piston, rod, bearings, valve, valve seat if needed. Might require direct import from VM or VM-UK although there is a VM-US contact available.

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 Post subject: Re: Blown Engine
PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2012 4:06 pm 
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If it turns out your engine has ingested a valve, I would be curious to know if the glow plug for that cylinder is intact and whether it is an intake or exhaust valve that dropped. An exhaust valve closing on a glow plug fragment could be a scenario for this sort of failure I suppose.

The timing belt is much more likely. Having just done my timing belt, I can tell you it would be hard to rule that in or out just from peaking behind the cover as you describe.

I agree wholeheartedly with PapaIndigo on getting Sir Sam involved.

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 Post subject: Re: Blown Engine
PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2012 4:29 pm 
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Thanks for the info. I've PM'd and emailed Sam. I also found another member who lives in Fort Collins and PM'd him to see if he has any good leads. I'll keep you posted as I find out more.

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 Post subject: Re: Blown Engine
PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2012 4:40 pm 
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Agree w papaindigo and others.

This sounds like a classic skipped tooth belt failure, and the mileage is right for that.

Also agree that a really good move would be to get hold of Sam.

Good luck and keep us posted!

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 Post subject: Re: Blown Engine
PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2012 5:08 pm 
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Just talked to the shop again and they are more optimistic about the rockers being the problem and that maybe the engine isn't a complete write off (maybe, just maybe). He's offered to pull the head and review it all (for a price of course) so I've asked him to hold off on all work until I hear from Sam or I have a clear direction that it's good to let him take a shot at it.

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Samco hoses; Weeks elbow kit; inline Stant t-stat; DIY ECU
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 Post subject: Re: Blown Engine
PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2012 5:56 pm 
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clehmann wrote:
Just talked to the shop again and they are more optimistic about the rockers being the problem and that maybe the engine isn't a complete write off (maybe, just maybe). He's offered to pull the head and review it all (for a price of course) so I've asked him to hold off on all work until I hear from Sam or I have a clear direction that it's good to let him take a shot at it.


Do the pin check first. If that shows bad then do the belt/rockers. No need to pull the head, yet another reason to have Sam do it. This guy does not know this engine.

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 Post subject: Re: Blown Engine
PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2012 1:41 pm 
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Don't waste your time and go with Sam-assuming he is willing to help you out. Not only will his fee's be competitive, you'll not have to worry about the job being done right. Please listen to us in the forum, there are too many horror stories in this and other diesel (VW TDI)C forums of folks worsening problems with their repairs. DOES YOUR MECHANIC HAVE THE TIMING BELT TOOLS AND LOCK PINS? IF NOT, RUN RUN RUN....PRAY AND MARK TIMING BELT REPLACEMENT METHOD IS NOT AN ALTERNATIVE METHD.

If you don't, I won't have a problem giving you "tough love" with a told you so. Case in point: idiot brother took his VW TDI (diesel) to a shop for a turbo replacement. It eventually cost hims $3600 total when his new turbo blew in 2 weeks and shop wouldn't honor warranty because his EGR was blocked off and chipped to delete EGR codes. I could have done the job right the first time for $1200 and I would have made sure he got new oil turbo feed line the first time.


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 Post subject: Re: Blown Engine
PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2012 7:20 pm 
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I recommend Sam as well, if he is available.

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 Post subject: Re: Blown Engine
PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2012 10:26 am 
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Thanks guys. Per your recommendation I've pulled my Jeep from the previously mentioned mechanic and I've been emailing Sam. I'm still not sure of his availability for the work, but I'm hoping that either he can help me out or at least recommend a known Jeep Diesel mechanic in the area. Hopefully I have some news to post in the next couple of days.

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 Post subject: Re: Blown Engine
PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2012 1:02 pm 
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If I did not do my own work, I would hire Sam.

There are a number of pitfalls for the unwary with this engine.

As regards the belt timing, one does not have to have the Miller tools to do a diagnostic check on the timing. It can be done with hex keys, as the misalignment is notable if it's out, so I have read.

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 Post subject: Re: Blown Engine
PostPosted: Fri Oct 26, 2012 12:09 pm 
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OK, finally have an update. Sam came over last Saturday and did some initial testing to get an idea of where the engine was and whether he thought we should take a crack at it. After getting it to turn over and start, we quickly noticed it backfiring on Cyl #4 every time it came around. Sam was able to disable the Cyl #4 fuel injector and immediately we could tell that the engine would run (though not happily) without backfiring. This info along with his other expertise was enough to encourage him as to the hope of this engine.

This week he's disassembled the whole front of the vehicle and pulled the intake/valve cover for inspection. He's found at least 2 lifters that were badly damaged and the rockers, though they don't look bent, have terrible slop in the bearings, so they will all be replaced with new ones. For record's sake, Sam did note that the timing of the engine was correct. We talked about it and this is the same as the other engine he did. After thinking it through, his thought is that as the belt gets loose, eventually a tooth gets skipped, which in turn impacts a valve into a piston, which possibly throws the cam back into "time" leaving you with an inoperable engine, but seemingly correct. Other inspection yielded no surprises and he did leak down tests on all the cylinders with good results. Things are looking up! I've order a myriad of parts that we'll replace as it gets put back together, but it looks like things are going to be ok.

A note on the rockers - The first place rockers showed up when I went to order was IDParts.com which has the full set of rockers and lifters for something like $850. Sam coached me to look around for JUST rockers since the lifters (most of them) are still ok. This engine is wildly common in the UK and across Europe, so if you can wait, you can get a full set of Rockers shipped for under $250. eBay is where I placed my order, but I'm sure there are plenty of other parts shops across the pond that ship internationally.

Bear in mind this is my Cliff's Notes of Sam's detailed explanations to me, so I'll definitely defer to him if he wants to chime in or clarify. His comfort and knowledge on this engine is uncanny. =)

Thanks to all for your firm guidance to get this done right and economically. :D

I'll post again with a final result once we're back on the road.

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 Post subject: Re: Blown Engine
PostPosted: Fri Oct 26, 2012 1:27 pm 
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clehmann wrote:
Bear in mind this is my Cliff's Notes of Sam's detailed explanations to me, so I'll definitely defer to him if he wants to chime in or clarify. His comfort and knowledge on this engine is uncanny. =)


I think that the slip happens between the crank and the cams. The cams are close enough on the belt that there are few teeth between them, the crank on the other hand has a relatively small number of teeth on it with long stretches of belt around it, were its easy for it to slip, anyone who has done the timing belt knows what I mean.

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 Post subject: Re: Blown Engine
PostPosted: Fri Oct 26, 2012 5:00 pm 
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clehmann,

You are in good hands......Sam's the man.

I would be interested to know what the final tally is.

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 Post subject: Re: Blown Engine
PostPosted: Fri Oct 26, 2012 11:58 pm 
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Sam - You might want to look at The VM Specialist (.co.uk I think) for rockers and lifters. I got a full set brand-new and genuine VM, in the new style (with the spring clip holding the lifter together and the tapered bottom) for $402 shipped. Their shipping speed wasn't fantastic, but for that price for all 16... I was OK with the wait.

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 Post subject: Re: Blown Engine
PostPosted: Sat Oct 27, 2012 12:13 am 
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geordi wrote:
Sam - You might want to look at The VM Specialist (.co.uk I think) for rockers and lifters. I got a full set brand-new and genuine VM, in the new style (with the spring clip holding the lifter together and the tapered bottom) for $402 shipped. Their shipping speed wasn't fantastic, but for that price for all 16... I was OK with the wait.

If I knew I was going to need a cam/cams, i would have ordered from there.

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