Catastrophic drive train failure occured today on the way to work. Searching for following parts:
1. CRD Rear Driveshaft
2. Transfer Case
3. Perhaps rear differential/axle.
3. Won't know until I get chance on my next day off whether I need a new transmission too.

Here is how my morning went:

1. Coworker called in sick, leaving me short handed at my pharmacy.

2. 30 second after coworker called in, my vehicle began vibrating violently. I pulled over thinking I had a flat tire, a quick check underneath revealed nothing out ordinary. I get back on road and nursed the vehicle another 2 miles. On way, the front u-joint on rear driveshaft failed causing quite the ruckus and I had to drive it another 3/4 mile to a safe place to pull aside on road. Wife got it towed for me, idiot tow truck driver insisted he put i on my driveway while I wanted it on the street.....driveway is now a disaster and my HOA an neighbors are going to complain to me about all of the ATF on the concrete driveway.

3. Wife's Jeep Grand Cherokee CRD fuel pump in fuel tank began to make death groans (loud squealing noise that she realized is not Kosher). Oh, did I mention she got rear ended by some schmuck in a parking lot today too?

4. Number 4 cylinder misfire code on my 1998 Ford Expedition (5.4L V8) engine occured today while in garage. So, I decided to drive the Liberty CRD this morning....bad idea. Number 4 cylinder is worse to work on than the number 3 cylinder on our jeep liberty. It took my wife and I 4 hours of pure hell removing and replacing the spark plug and individual ignition coil for the number 4 cylinder tonight. Good thing, it fixed our misfire CEL.

5. Wife was scared to drive Grand Cherokee until I took a look at it. She got a ride home and then began driving our 1991 Mazda RX7 Convertible which had the brake idiot light come on and engine began bucking at higher throttle settings and I pulled a throttle position sensor code on it today.

6. DId I mention that our home lost electricity for several hours today? I guess the big storm on the eastcoast is affecting our utilities

7. Should I junk all of our vehicles and go out and just buy 2 new ones? Should I buy a lotto ticket w/ my great luck? Should I hire Vinny to burn my Liberty CRD to the ground and be done with it?

If you made it this far on my post, I thank you for attending my pity party.

Check with tomasnc

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

ouch, I'd be tempted to put for sale signs on all of em and once one sells, get something under warranty cheap for commuter.

when number two sells, get another warranty commuter vehicle.


when the rest sell, get one vehicle you LIKE to work on ...

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2005 CRD Limited
added Mopar plates, snow, mud
Detours backbone (w/lp8500)
Skink super sliders

Wow, talk about a strike of bad luck! Would there be any chance that someone is working up some voodoo on you ?

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RIP 10/31/2012
Green Metallic 2006 CRD Limited
GDE Hot tune ~ Pre-F37 TCM ~ Transgo shift kit ~ MagnaFlow ~ Homemade Provent ~ OME 2" lift & Airlift ~ Samco ~ Euro TC ~ Lift pump ~ Nylon fan blade & Hayden clutch ~ Etc!

This past August I was following an out of state 2007 or newer Liberty on a busy interstate.
Her rear universal joint let loose with a bang. It was red hot flying around as they pulled over 2 lanes to the berm.
I had previously replaced my U joints with $13 each MOOG's from NAPA. Comparing old to new the needles on the new ones were obviously longer.

I counted 4 vehicles with the CRD being the newest
I would select the best two and spend more time underneath them

It never hurts to get a lottery ticket either

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Atlantic Blue 06 CRD Limited (his)
Joined by a 2000 XJ Classic (hers)

U-joints I installed over a year ago were Napa USA made u-joints w/ zerk fittings.


Next job is to replace the fuel pump on wife's Grand Cherokee CRD. I'm not touching the Mazda till spring. After the G. Cherokee, I need to replace hyfaxes on my two snowmobiles and get my 1978 Chrysler Snorunner running again, and then maybe I will brave a look under the Liberty to see how bad it really is.....I'm not looking forward to it.

3 hours to change one plug and coil on a 5.4? It's only a 45min job to replace all 8 plugs on a 5.4 in a '98.

TJ,
I invite you to try replacing the no. 4 plug and ignition coil in 45 minutes by itself. I guarantee and bet you that you couldn't do it.

In fact, I suspect most flat rate mechanics would lie about replacing the number 4 spark plug. A quick perusal of forums reflected times from 2.5-3.5 hours. Considering I had done the job after a 10 hour shift at work, I can't complain.

#4 is easy,#7 is more of a pain in the rear then #4.Monday I did a intake and plugs in a '99 F150 with the 5.4,took less then 3 hours total,let me tell you getting to any of the plugs is super easy when the intake is not there.Now you want fun try and change plugs in a E series conversion van.

When ever I change plugs in any engine all the spark plugs get taped to the invoice so the customer knows all were replaced.

So, does anybody have any idea why there is a stream of ATF fluid coming out of a small openng/crimp hole on the bottom of my starter when engine is running?

TJ,
PM me if you wish to earn a little extra $$ on the side for a tranny replacement, new torque converter install, and if necessary, upgraded front pump. I live off of Voyager in northern COS.