Throwing Overboost P0234 code as accelerate through about 60

pappyrsg · **Joined:** Mon Oct 01, 2012 7:35 pm **Posts:** 70

New turbo installed... pre-oiled several times before installing... started, idled for 10 minutes or so, runs good, no codes or lights, but... still a very slight whine from the turbo, nothing like before with the bad turbo, but I can hear it while parked and revving slightly, as well as while accelerating with the windows down. May just be normal operation, but, thought I'd ask before going for a full road test. Don't remember hearing this slight turbo sound before but 1. I wasn't really listening and 2. I wasn't as paranoid as I am now. Regarding that, I did verify oil getting to turbo via feed line after my first idle, rev and short road test (quick 1-second idle test with line slightly loose yielded quite a bit of oil spill). Thoughts?

jlgail4309 · **Posted:** Thu Nov 01, 2012 6:06 pm

I get sound from my turbo. Whine or what ever it's noticeable for sure. Sounds like your good. It's been a long road to get it back on the road. I just love my jeep I bet you will feel the same after you drive it for a little while. The little tractor is worth more than the some of it parts. Big bang for your dollar. I was wondering how bad was it doing the turbo.

pappyrsg · **Joined:** Mon Oct 01, 2012 7:35 pm **Posts:** 70

Drove up to town and back, 50 miles or so total, after listening to a few trucks I passed I recalled the sound I'm hearing in mine... it's a 'mini-Kenworth' whine, probably partially enabled by my K&N. I think I'm fine, but I'm going to go back over the intake hose connection at the airbox and the turbo hose connection at the inter-cooler tomorrow, both plastic, just to be sure I didn't over-tighten those and crack the plastic. Also will check to ensure other hose connections are secure.

As for the turbo R&R, once you get used to American auto designers leaning heavily toward allowing for body style limitations to function (cramped engine compartment), it wasn't really that bad. Hard getting to a few bolts, both at removal and install time, but, as far as I can tell, it's easier to R&R the turbo than to R&R the glow plugs.

By the way papaindigo, I did pull glow plug #1 just to get a sense they were OK... looked fine, no chipping or any other deformities. I did that because, when I ran my fancy-pants mini-camera into the exhaust manifold to see what I could see, I thought I saw little chips of glow plug stuff (ceramic) outside the ports of all 4 cylinders. After further consideration, I think what I actually saw was scattered areas of shiny glass-like carbon reflected in the mini-camera's led lights and magnified by its lens. I also did the slobber tube mod.

I don't know if I'll do the camera-in-the-fuel-injector-port experiment... right now, just want to enjoy the time with a running CRD... which runs even better now that its turbo vanes aren't all jammed up. Next on the priority list will be the manual EGR disable (unplug MAF sensor... want to get OBD code reader in place on my phone first for frequent checks), then exhaust mods, then consider GDE tune (and spending another $500).

Thanks for all your help folks... the ITU approach should be advised with a 'don't go overboard' caveat, but it did expose a badly screwed up turbo, close to home, which would have bit me later anyway.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Fri Nov 02, 2012 8:56 am

Good to hear you are back on the road.

On those plastic ports; they are pretty sturdy but 1) they don't react well to the hose clamp being close to the outside end so be sure the hose is all the way on and that the clamp is well past the end on the port (on the airbox to turbo hose that translates to the airbox end touching the MAF sensor before tightening the clamp - I know from sad experience) and 2) don't godzilla the plastic port clamps, just run them down snug and give them a bit more, then run for a few days and recheck.

Glad the #1 plug came out easy and looked fine. If you ever do the camera in the injector port thing be sure to post the results and what equipment you used especially if you can actually see the glow plug tips.

pappyrsg · **Joined:** Mon Oct 01, 2012 7:35 pm **Posts:** 70

Still working through re-assembly as I have time, but an unrelated transmission concern.

When 'cold' (doesn't really get that cold here... just parked overnight in the garage), there seems to be a delay, or at least a wait for engine speed beyond idle, before the transmission engages leaving Park to Reverse. OK after warm up, even idling for a few minutes. Unlike other automatics I've had, there's no clunk or obvious grab when doing that shift. After searching the forum, I re-checked the fluid level and it's fine. I did have the trans fluid changed (Meineke did their active under-pressure swap out that's supposed to also clean the filters but not apply excess pressure). Trans seems to shift OK otherwise though certainly nothing like the crisp, clean obvious shifts in my post-Banks-upgrade Ford motor home. Should I worry about this?

One more drive train question... can't seem to shift the Selec-Trac into Neutral, and thus 4-Lo. Have tried cycling through R & Drive, turning engine off... still won't go. What am I missing?
>>> Nevermind on this question... put a little right force on the shifter and it went into Nuetral and 4Lo reluctantly; then re-cycled through all the positions a few times and things loosened up nicely. I'm guessing the previous owner(s) never visited Neutral or 4Lo.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sat Nov 03, 2012 3:47 pm

Shift issue. Did they use ATF+4, if not that's a problem. If the delay only occurs when parked overnight or elsewhere for like 8+ hrs then you have the classic fluid drain back problem. Try crankup, shift into neutral and hold idle at ca. 1500 rpm for like 10-15 seconds, and then shift into gear and drive. If problem goes away you now positively know what it is. IMHO, personal comment, you couldn't pay me to change fluid that way. I could be wrong but the only way to "clean" a filter is to back flush it and guess where the crud in the filter is going to go. That said if the "try" fixes the problem you need to drop the tranny pan, install new filters, reinstall tranny pan, and refill with ATF+4. If not I'm out of ideas.

4-wheel issue. I still have the original instructions on that shift and they say to make the shift between 4-wheel full time and 4-wheel low (either way) you should have the vehicle moving at 2-3 mph; shift the transmission into neutral; shift the transfer case into the desired direction while still moving (ignore any grinding) without pausing in the transfer case neutral position; put the tranny back in gear (remember to keep your speed low in 4-wheel low). Try that. If it doesn't work look at the connection between the transfer case shift cable and the transfer case lever. There is a plastic clip that holds the cable in place ca. 12" forward of the lever and a plastic bushing that holds the cable to the lever. If one or the other is buggered that may be your problem. Those parts are cheap as dirt; see viewtopic.php?f=98&t=69582

pappyrsg · **Joined:** Mon Oct 01, 2012 7:35 pm **Posts:** 70

Thanks papadingo... but, the transfer case shifting is OK now (see my follow-up text), just stiff from lack of use. As for the drain back possibility, you're probably right there. I'll check in the morning. On a lighter note, you seem tense dude... I'm the one with the problems. You might want to back off the coffee and have a beer

. (Oh, yes they used ATF+4... though synthetic... after my 1800 mile drive, trans fluid looks great)

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sun Nov 04, 2012 7:44 am

Glad they used ATF+4, just never have been fond of any under pressure tranny fluid flushes that leave the original filters in place; nor for that matter flushes that involve pulling the tranny input line and flushing by filling while fluid runs thru the system and out the input line into a bucket or some such. The latter at least has the merit of filtering what you are flushing and does get rid of all the old fluid. However, leaving the old filters in place is not good idea IMHO especially when IIRC one of those filters has the anti-drain back check valve in the filter body.

I'd go get a beer but it's too early and I've got too many clocks to reset not to mention prep for a timing belt job on stoutdog's 06 next weekend.

Good to hear the shifter problem was just lack of use. Guess I best cycle mine into 4 low, which I think I've used once in the 20K or so miles since I got this CRD, just to make sure it works.

pappyrsg · **Joined:** Mon Oct 01, 2012 7:35 pm **Posts:** 70

Confirmed drain-back valve issue. Filter & gasket kit ordered (Wix.... via Amazon).

pappyrsg · **Joined:** Mon Oct 01, 2012 7:35 pm **Posts:** 70

Did the pan drop and filter changes, everything seated as instructed, but I still have the 'drain back' problem. I used the WIX 58843 kit, so I don't think I got any of those old, bad Chrysler parts. Not planning to go back in anytime soon, but I see a 'VALVE, flow control' (04799681) in the parts fiche (under $8)... from posts I see on other forums, looks like that could be our problem... thoughts/experience?

pappyrsg · **Joined:** Mon Oct 01, 2012 7:35 pm **Posts:** 70

OK, when I go back in to replace the check valve (not 'if', and probably soon), I'm thinking I'll do the TRANSGO kit too (45RFE-HD2 ?). I found a link for that install, duplicate of that mentioned by Papadingo in an earlier thread, though not really detailed it looks reasonable straight-forward (http://liberty.eurekaboy.com/transgo.htm). Is not doing the resistor change and just letting the TCM 'learn around it' still the way to go?... how long does it take the TCM to do its 'learning'? Any other suggestions or experience out there on the TRANSGO kit, or the check valve (04799681) R&R for that matter?

pappyrsg · **Joined:** Mon Oct 01, 2012 7:35 pm **Posts:** 70

And still more... just spoke with the Transgo tech folks... seems they feel neither of their kits for the 545RFE trans do too much for the shifts (max 20% shift speed increase) because the computer won't let them go any faster without throwing a code. Both kits do address a poor build quality issue with the accumulator plate (stock is way too thin... can fail and take the trans with it). So now I'm thinking just go with the cheaper SK 45RFE kit. Thoughts / comments ?

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sat Nov 10, 2012 9:00 am

Comments:
1. I have not done the install; SunCoast did it for me.
2. The Eureka Boy post is somewhat old and just deals with installing the valve body parts. I don't recall a LOST post on the full install which includes the pump part(s); if you Google you can find more complete install posts on other forums for the 545RFE tranny. To do the pump stuff requires dropping the tranny.
3. Your best bet on questions about which kit, beyond talking to TransGo might be to talk to Ron Wolverton at SunCoast as they recommend the TransGo kit and routinely install it when they do a torque convertor install
4. There has been a lot of chat over the years about the resistor. Consensus seems to be to omit it from the install as the tranny just learns around it. In fact there is some suggestion the resistor is no longer in the kit.
5. As noted he transgo kit's primary purpose is to beef up some marginal parts in the valve body and to fix the weak portion of the original pump. With respect to the pump the problem is apparently a soft seat. That pump is no longer available, hasn't been for a while, so if a failed pump was "fixed" in the past few years it was probably by installing the newer pump which does not have the "soft seat" problem.

I put up with the tranny drain back problem for about 20k miles by doing the idle in neutral on start up trick with no problem. Beyond that all I can tell you is after SunCoast installed their TC and the transgo kit and serviced the tranny with new filters I no longer have the drain back problem. Exactly what they did that made the problem go away I simply don't know although Ron might have an opinion.

pappyrsg · **Joined:** Mon Oct 01, 2012 7:35 pm **Posts:** 70

Thanks for the reply papaindigo... I'll talk to the Suncoast folks Monday, when they're back in. One question though... on your Suncoast invoice after the trans work, just wondering if there is a parts list, and does that list include the 04799681 , 'valve, flow control' part? By the way, I'm taking the last few entries of this thread to a new thread, focusing on the transmission and the drain back issue, since apparently no one has done that yet on this forum.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sat Nov 10, 2012 12:13 pm

No my SunCoast invoice does not have that part # which is no surprise and no I cannot tell you if that part has anything to do with the drain back issue, which by the way has been a DCJ issue since the 1st generation minivan in my personal experience.

PS regarding calling SunCoast on Monday just a reminder that's a holiday for some folks.

With respect to the transgo kit the invoice just says 45RFE-JR 45-68 JR shift kit $53.80 if that helps any.

In the somewhat distant past the forum had lots of chat about the drain back issue; see for example viewtopic.php?f=98&t=55110 and there is a TSB on the topic TSB 21-007-06 APR 06. The TSB ties to transmission build date which is somewhat in error. The original problem apparently ties to a batch of bad OEM filters that were installed at the factory BUT some of those filters made it into dealerships and were installed as part of tranny service on later trannys and when DCJ dumped the bad filters some were pulled from the trash are resold on eBay as "good" OEM filters. In most cases a fluid and filter change seems to solve the problem but not always. In addition some have had the problem come back some months/miles after the change even with good filters. Also IIRC one of the filters is push on and if not done right can produce similar issues but don't rely on my memory for that comment.

Throwing Overboost P0234 code as accelerate through about 60

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