in hose thermostat -(no housing)

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Mon Sep 03, 2012 6:00 pm

arengant wrote:

I think gutting it would be a great idea, but I haven't looked at how hard that would be. Any writeups on here?

scroll down a bit - the first thing Kap did was cut up an old one

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?p=566488#p566488

arengant · **Posted:** Tue Sep 04, 2012 12:18 am

ATXKJ wrote:

arengant wrote:

I think gutting it would be a great idea, but I haven't looked at how hard that would be. Any writeups on here?

scroll down a bit - the first thing Kap did was cut up an old one

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?p=566488#p566488

I knew about Kaps housing ( I am still on his list) but I was hoping there was some magic trick you could gut it without cutting it up first. Thanks though!

geordi · **Posted:** Tue Sep 04, 2012 1:38 am

I wish, when I had the factory thermo off a few days ago, I took a look at if it could be gutted without cutting the housing up. Couldn't figure any way to do it, so back onto the engine it went.

Danno · **Posted:** Wed Sep 05, 2012 10:37 am

Ordered it the 13519 and got it from amazon in 1 day. Before the CRD would barely run about 1/4 of the way on the Temp guage if it was below 70 or so.. Now it sits right at 1 tick before the center and finally warms up quick. . However when it gets over 92 degrees or so and some slow moving traffic it will spike, about 1/8 past center. I did drill a small hole, but still not better.
Dont notice any reduced power, or reduced AC output. And still on the original fan clutch.

Any Ideas?

geordi · **Posted:** Wed Sep 05, 2012 12:25 pm

Throw out that fan clutch!

It died when your CRD had about 100 miles on it, really. That thing is complete crap, and dead. Get the Hayden, and your "1/8 past center" in the heat will vanish too.

Now... When you say 1/8, are you referring to the tick marks (I think there are 8 of them) or actually 1/8th of an inch past center - which would also -I think- be one tick past center? If so, that means your temperature is approaching 212 degrees or so, there is a graphic image floating around here with the tick marks translated to an actual temperature. Some variation is OK, especially in the fires-of-helll summer we have had at times. While sitting in stop-and-go with the AC running, you are at minimal airflow, so some heating is to be expected. Take the transmission out of gear (push it to neutral) and that will reduce the load on the engine while you aren't moving, but it will keep the transmission fluid circulating at full speed to cool that off too.

Diesels are a cold-running engine, but even they suffer a little in the heat that wants to melt our skin off. What you need is a better fan clutch, even if you don't replace the fan with the plastic one.

Danno · **Posted:** Wed Sep 05, 2012 1:27 pm

Thanks Geordi

Yea, I shall be trashing that fan clutch ASAP! The temp gets about a 1/8 of the way past center, maybe 2 ticks.
Doesn't happen where I live, then again its all farm country out there nice wide open roads. Only when I head down to the big city of Vernon Hills IL, where traffic stinks..

weeks101 · **Joined:** Mon Jul 30, 2012 3:29 pm **Posts:** 747

Thought I would report on my experience with this.

My CRD would only get to 1/4 mark unless I had the A/C on, in which case it would get up to just below 1/2. Decided to give this a try and very happy I did. Ordered from Rock Auto and I received the correct part the first try. I did not drill a hole. Installed it in the parking lot at work in less than 10 minutes. Lost about 1/2 cup of coolant, no big deal. Now the CRD gets up to temp quickly and stays there. No spikes whatsoever.

As far as weather conditions, mornings have been chilly here in MN lately. I will have to see how it handles 100 degree weather in the summer, but I'll cross that bridge when I get there. No big hills here and I don't tow, so I don't expect to have any issues.

joelukex4 · **Joined:** Thu Sep 29, 2011 4:54 pm **Posts:** 386

Sorry, can't seem to find the answer. What brand of inline t-stat is fail safe?

papaindigo · **Posted:** Thu Sep 27, 2012 4:55 pm

At the risk of starting the "discussion" all over again IMHO the answer is none really. The one that claims to be as nearly as I can figure out is set to lock itself wide open if the engine overheats which is like locking the proverbial barn door. I think there was some chat about this somewhere in the 35 pages of this string viewtopic.php?f=5&t=50940&hilit=thermost

DOC4444 · **Posted:** Fri Sep 28, 2012 10:03 pm

MotoRad Failsafe 7237-192

I have been the victim of thermostats failing "closed" and causing motors to overheat. If these fail, they remain open. Would not use anything else.

DOC

joelukex4 · **Joined:** Thu Sep 29, 2011 4:54 pm **Posts:** 386

Would a 180F or 195F be better for the CRD? What temperature does the stock T-stat open at? I don't want to run hot.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Thu Oct 25, 2012 6:37 am

Stock is about 176-180. In the past GDE has recommended the 195 for better fuel efficiency. Either is a long way from true overheating which is 244F or even the first ECU triggered steps to prevent overheating which is cutting fuel a bit at 225F.

For what it's worth stoutdog has kap's modified tstat (1st one with brass fittings) and a 195 tstat on his 06 CRD with the stock fan and fan clutch. We came from Tempe, AZ to Tallahassee, FL wiith the 2 of us, the rest of the CRD interior packed with all his college stuff including books, a kayak on top, while towing a fully loaded 5X8 Uhaul running a steady 62-65 and occasional 70+ on I-10. For the entire run the temp gauge sat rock solid in the same place as it normally does just a bit left of vertical.

I'm personally not big on installing the inline but assuming it opens correctly (I strongly recommend the small skirt hole) the performance should be the same.

ChooChooman74 · **Posted:** Thu Oct 25, 2012 11:35 am

Just a bit off topic, they sell 205s for Powerstrokes. 195 is no issue.

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

sailbeb · **Joined:** Wed Oct 24, 2012 8:00 pm **Posts:** 10

Great read, thanks for all the information folks. Wife's Liberty is running at about 154 F (Failed open) so I will be making a trip to the local auto parts store to see if they have the Stant.

kapalczynski · **Posted:** Thu Nov 15, 2012 3:29 am

DOC4444 wrote:

MotoRad Failsafe 7237-192

I have been the victim of thermostats failing "closed" and causing motors to overheat. If these fail, they remain open. Would not use anything else.

DOC

Doc, this is not entirely true. A fail safe can fail closed and let a motor overheat.

There are 2 reasons a thermostat fails. The spring gets too weak over time or the wax leaks out of the piston due to piston wear over time. If the spring weakens over time due to heat cycling/stress the thermostat fails by letting coolant by too early (engine runs too cold and poor fuel economy results).

If the wax leaks out of the piston the thermostat fails closed or opens too late due to lack of wax to push the piston and thermostat open (the thermostat causes engine to overheat.

A fail-safe will NOT prevent this.

The only advantage of a failsafe is that if your engine overheats due to another issue like a blocked radiator, failed waterpump, bad fan clutch/electric fan, the engine will get hot enough to cause the wax in the piston to expand past normal and the failsafe will latch open.

This will only happen during extreme engine temperatures caused but something other than a thermostat failure. If the wax leaks out of a failsafe thermostat it cannot extend enough to reach the open/locked (failsafe) position and your engine will still overheat.

Most of todays main stream thermostat brands are designed to have the spring get weak/fail prior to the piston wearing enough to leak wax. By designing the spring with a shorter life than the piston driven by the wax expanding this prevents the thermostat from failing closed...assuming someone replaces it when the thermostat starts running cooler.

The only real risk is someone who runs an old thermostat well beyond the life expectancy of the piston (say they leave it after it fails open and install a in-line tstat). Eventually the thermostat's wax driven piston could get worn enough to leak wax and the thermostat will fail closed causing the engine to immediately overheat.

This is a possible danger with running a in-line thermostat at the same time as an original thermostat still in the vehicle.

Additionally, the fact the bypass/block-off part of the original thermostat is not functioning at the correct time if its opening at colder temp than the inline hose tstat may cause cavitation in the waterpump, excess pressures where its not supposed to be, etc.

I realize many people are running this setup and so far I don't believe anyone's had an issue, but those are two reasons I cannot recommend it.

I feel it is my duty with my understanding of the cooling system on this jeep and in thermostats, etc in general to help people to understand the risks. I can only recommend running a new OEM thermostat or one that functions like the original such as something like my design.

I do not expect to be producing many of my units much longer and am trying to get out of this project because I do not have time to devote to it so it should be obvious I am not recommending it to gain momentum for my project.

- Mark

arengant · **Posted:** Mon Nov 19, 2012 4:27 am

I have an inline t Stat but I regret it. I did it to save a few bucks but in the end I am "too poor to buy cheap" so I will get a KAP tstat of OEM in the near future.

maxwellp · **Posted:** Mon Nov 19, 2012 9:10 am

arengant wrote:

I have an inline t Stat but I regret it. I did it to save a few bucks but in the end I am "too poor to buy cheap" so I will get a KAP tstat of OEM in the near future.

I have one in, but am just using it to buy a few more miles until I do the timing belt Job. It has worked with no problems MPG is up +5. I did drill a hole in it and have it clocked at the High side. I think this is very important in this use.

joelukex4 · **Joined:** Thu Sep 29, 2011 4:54 pm **Posts:** 386

Some things never go well for me.

Tried to install a Stant in line today and it wouldn't fit into the hose. It stopped at the flare crimp and wouldn't go any farther. Tried to grind down the crimp flare and got it to just barely fit into the hose. Could not slide it down into the hose. I got over anxious and ground down a little to much and the the crimp let loose.

Anyone else have fitment problems and does the gates fit any better?

maxwellp · **Posted:** Wed Nov 28, 2012 8:06 pm

I used a Murray t stat from O Riley, it sliped right in.

joelukex4 · **Joined:** Thu Sep 29, 2011 4:54 pm **Posts:** 386

Which Murray T-stat did you use.

Did anyone have to heat the radiator hose to swell it for the Stant to fit?

in hose thermostat -(no housing)

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