123,000 kilometer or 80,778 miles

franzz · **Joined:** Mon Mar 05, 2012 5:20 pm **Posts:** 7

Hi all. Been lurking for months and have read the noob guide.

Question is : Am i masochistic enough to buy this magnificent vehicle ? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HeoFnuZ2 ... ature=plcp
Yes i can wrench, yes it runs good...or go for a Subaru.

Thanks for everyone's knowledge.

MOSFET · **Joined:** Sat Feb 25, 2006 11:40 pm **Posts:** 295

Buy a Subaru.

dirtmover · **Posted:** Wed Nov 28, 2012 10:43 pm

+1 on the Subaru unless the CRD is a really good price.

painemann · **Joined:** Sat Dec 20, 2008 7:02 pm **Posts:** 607

Don't buy a Subaru, maybe don't buy the jeep, but buy American if you live in America.
People get mad when they think of our economy and then go buy Jap cars and Chinese tools to work on them. Sad !

Don't let people on this site scare you away from the CRD. they are good cars with some issues, if you don't mind doing your own work then you will love the jeep.
If you are one to have others work on your cars then its not the vehicle for you.
Most shops don't even know Jeep used diesels.

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Thu Nov 29, 2012 8:08 am

If you are not a Dyed in the Wool Dedicated Diesel Owner/User, forget the CRD and other Diesels.
Most of the CRDs are getting to the point where the ones being sold are in sorry shape with few exceptions. Here is one of the causes: The new EPA approved oils that are being stocked on the shelves are crap and are causing a lot of engine failures in diesels and older gasoline engines. What oils were good 2 years ago have turned to crap because they have cut additives like zinc in half or less. If you get one of these CRDs that have been run on EPA approved crap, expect to replace rockers, turbo, and maybe more. So, pay extra for an oil that is OK, or add the needed additives, or replace parts and blame VM, your choice.
When it comes to Subaru or other Asian cars, sorry, I don't like to work on them or drive them.
What got the Japanese cars into the US market was the Baby Boomer protesting against their parents along with a US Auto Industry that was obsessed with bean counting. For a period of time the competition suppressed the Bean Counters and their cost cutting on both sides of the pond so quality went up, but now they have come back with a vengeance.
With Government Regulations some of which are OK and some are lots crap, the Bean Counters have even more power.
Since you live in Canada, get what holds up in your climate and you can fix.

dirtmover · **Posted:** Thu Nov 29, 2012 8:51 am

painemann wrote:

....but buy American if you live in America.
People get mad when they think of our economy and then go buy Jap cars and Chinese tools to work on them. Sad !

He's from Canada so probably doesn't care about the US economy, after all, the official Canadian line is "We would rather trade with Asia" :roll:

. Just Google "harper secret china trade deal" if you don't believe me. Now that is sad.

warp2diesel wrote:

So, pay extra for an oil that is OK, or add the needed additives, or replace parts and blame VM, your choice.

So, do you have any suggestions for an OK oil. I've been using Delvac 1 ESP 0W-40 for the specific reason that it has one of the highest ZDDP levels I could find.

maxwellp · **Posted:** Thu Nov 29, 2012 9:07 am

I am a Diesel Head, so I would say if you can get a good deal buy the Jeep. I had a Subaru once - Never again.
It depends what need your new ride to do for you. Looks like you are looking for 4x4? :pepper:

franzz · **Joined:** Mon Mar 05, 2012 5:20 pm **Posts:** 7

Hi All and thanks for replies.

They ask $13.000. for it..and they are incline to change the timing belt only. Unless they change roller's and water pump i'll buy it. I keep you posted.

As for my 1997 2.2 Subaru it's fun to ride and with studded tire it is hard to beat for a skiing maniac..

Is there any good North American 4x4 car or small suv with good fuel economy ?

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Thu Nov 29, 2012 9:08 pm

dirtmover wrote:

So, do you have any suggestions for an OK oil. I've been using Delvac 1 ESP 0W-40 for the specific reason that it has one of the highest ZDDP levels I could find.

I use Amsoil, but not what they show to use in their catalog that kisses up to the Chrysler specs but not VM specs. Chrysler wanted us to use Mobil 1 0W-40 and it looks like those who did are having issues. The true reason Chrysler recommended the 0W-40 crap in US/Canada was to kiss up to CAFE standards and get the mileage up, not to save the engine. For Europe and the rest of the world, they went with the VM specs. Who would you trust more, an Engineer who put his/her Professional Reputation on the line or some Detroit Bean Counter who is Pico-cent wise and Mega-Buck Foolish? I would trust the Engineer who put his/her name on the line!
Therefore, I use Amsoil AMO 10W-40

Before Castrol cut back their ZDDP, I used Syntec 5W-50 and even started at -15F with out plugging in and parked for 4 days at the airport. The Amsoil AMO 10W-40 has a lower pour point than the Castrol Syntec 5W-50, so starting is not a problem. When I used Rotella T-6 5W-40 I did not like the way my centrifuge sounded when I shut off the engine. Also, I did not like the way it felt when I put a few drops on my thumb and rubbed my index finger against it, not enough lubricity. Castrol Syntec 5W-50 had the lubricity but like the Rotella my centrifuge bowl had both sludge and soot when I cleaned it out. With Amsoil AMO 10W-40, I don't have sludge in the bowl when I clean it out, just packed carbon from the soot the centrifuge has removed. My engine is also quieter with the Amsoil AMO 10W-40 oil.
I don't know the additive specs on your Delvac but the specs for Amsoil are on their website and since the Amsoil website is purely technical and not "US Pro Conservative Politics", it should not be blocked by your ISP or Government :ROTFL:

. My son lives in the Netherlands for his work, he matches up the specs and buys his oil by the 20L bucket.

maxwellp · **Posted:** Thu Nov 29, 2012 9:58 pm

franzz wrote:

Hi All and thanks for replies.

They ask $13.000. for it..and they are incline to change the timing belt only. Unless they change roller's and water pump i'll buy it. I keep you posted.

As for my 1997 2.2 Subaru it's fun to ride and with studded tire it is hard to beat for a skiing maniac..

Is there any good North American 4x4 car or small suv with good fuel economy ?

Thats in the ball park. It is close to needing a timing belt but not quite there. Belt is Timed out if anything. (6 years)
Most likely needs a thermostat and if not it will. Just as with many cars and trucks with 80k miles on it allot of things are going to be ready to be replaced. So if it has been driven up to this point with little or no work on it you will get to do it or have it done. I got one this way but was planing on it, Just replace the OEM battery today. If you do not work on cars yourself you may want to stay away.

franzz · **Joined:** Mon Mar 05, 2012 5:20 pm **Posts:** 7

Maybe i'm a new CRD owner. Just coming from seller and he is willing to change timing belt, rollers, water pump and thermostat.
I'm still suspicious about the rockers state and free play in the turbo van...more on monday. i'll be :juggle:

about it in the weekend.

franzz · **Joined:** Mon Mar 05, 2012 5:20 pm **Posts:** 7

Hi All.

I finally bought a Subaru Tribeca 2008 for the same price.

Great community here.

Farewell Brothers !

123,000 kilometer or 80,778 miles

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