As some of you may remember, my turbo failed on a trip about a month ago. I had to trailer it home and put a used turbo on it to run until I ordered a new one. I decided to try a rebuilt one from "Buy Auto Parts". They were quick to ship it and did not require a core. I've now put several hundred miles on it and no problems yet.

In the picture below, you will see the rebuilt one on the left, my trashed one in the middle and the used turbo that I was using until the rebuilt arrived.


In the image below, you will see the trashed vanes on the intake side:


The next image shows the serial of the rebuilt:


Here's the serial of the trashed:


And the serial of my used:


All three have different model numbers, as well as vastly different serial numbers. The two used ones both came out of 2006 models, but the trashed turbo has a different vacuum actuator than the other. My Jeeps are all used, so it is possible that the turbo has been changed out by the previous owner.

I'm getting good at changing out turbos. I can remove and install in less than 2 hours. There is no real point to this post, but I hope the rebuilt holds up (12 month warranty).

_________________
My collection of CRD's:
2005 Deep Beryl Green Pearlcoat
2006 Light Khaki Metallic Clearcoat
2006 Inferno Red Crystal Pearlcoat
2006 Midnight Blue Pearlcoat
2006 Gold Limited
2015 Black Ecodiesel
2015 Black Ecodiesel 2

wow, $750 brand new doesn't sound too terrible compared to the dealer prices I've seen.

http://www.buyautoparts.com/buynow/2006 ... 19_AN.html

_________________
2006 CRD Limited
SEGR Mod
Saikou Michi Condenser -- Deleted
Samco Hose Kit
Fumoto 102
Etecno1 GX3123 Steel 7V Glow Plugs
GDE FT Eco and Hot Tunes
JBA 4.5 UCAs
OME Lift

Should I check mine and pull it? How does turbo get oil? I was thinking about adding another power steering pump container above with factory sensor. Then switch cable to turbo so when light comes on low power steering fluid aka now turbo oil res will show when to add fresh oil. Think turbo would be happier with fresh oil?

I wouldn't buy from the stealership.

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

_________________
2006 Sport, GDE FT Eco Tune, Custom Trans Tune
2015 Ram 1500 Big Horn EcoDiesel, GDE Hot Tune

Has anyone noticed any definitive symptoms of an imminent turbo failure? Not that I would notice, as my wife drives the CRD, but I do sometimes have the opportunity to drive it. I'm afraid a turbo failure will cause my engine to fail, just like so many have reported here, and that would really suck.

_________________
'05 Liberty CRD B100, SEGR - SOLD

'01 Beetle TDi B100, EGR delete
'83 Mercedes 240D B100, no EGR

--- SEGR Builder ---

The turbo gets oil under pressure from the upper oil gallery 2nd outlet from the rear (there are 4 outlets, 3 plugged and 1 oil feed to turbo - see figure 2.8L-720 in the 05 parts manual item #14) and the oil returns by gravity mostly to the block.

At the speed turbos spin "signs" of failure don't likely come much before failure IMHO. Best I can think of is 1) use correct oil; 2) change oil and filter at shortish intervals (I like 6K miles); 3) keep crud out of turbo by keeping air filter clean and regular inspection of air box to turbo hose for failure below and just in front of turbo; 4) ideally at EVERY oil change pull that hose to inspect and while there check turbo end shaft for play (slight for/aft ok - anymore than a hint side to side bad) and blade ends for contact with housing); and 5) be "religious" about turbo cool down especially on hwy runs and/or when towing

_________________
Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

If your not doing anything with that used one I have been wanting to make a propane turbine engine out of one.

_________________
http://www.Colorado4Wheel.com
"Its not about what you can DO with your Jeep, its about where you can GO with your Jeep."
Knowledgeable - But Caustic

The "F" suffix was stock at the beginning of production. The actuator design for the vane control changed with the "G" suffix sometime between 2005 and 2006 model years. Everything else on the turbo is the same.

_________________
Providers of wholly developed aftermarket solutions for the KJ CRD.
(248) 977 - 9531

As stated, the serial numbers are going to change with each unit produced, just like cars.

The P/N information is what is most important here. On the factory unit, you will likely see "763360-1" in that row. If it says "763360-5001S", then it has likely been changed previously. The correct part number for the new one you get should be the same as the second number stated here. I am unable to see the pics that you have posted due to my IE being what it is.

Please do not rely on "rebuilt" units. Garrett, or any authorized Garrett distributor DOES NOT rebuild these turbos, only new units are sold. There should also be no core charge.

_________________
FWIW,
Hoosier CRD

#1 Liberty: '05 CRD Limited Stone White
(SOLD Dec. 2013)
#2 Liberty: ???
"Why guess when you can know?"- Carroll Smith

You can check it but do not need to pull it off. As far as your oil can supply operation.... this will not work as the Turbo shares its oil with the engine. One in the same under pressure. There is no Turbo oil level to check.

_________________
2006 Jeep Liberty CRD
1998 Beetle TDI Malone Tuning Stage 2
2001 Dodge Cummins
2005 Dodge Cummins
ASE, OBDII / VAG-CAN scaner / Service Manual

Unless these are ball bearing turbos you have that backwards... ALL journal bearing turbos will have some side to side play, if they didn't there wouldn't be any room for oil to get between the bearing and the shaft. You will feel this tiny bit of clearance because the movement is amplified by the fact that you are moving the shaft at a point over an inch away from the bearing. You should not be able to feel any play for/aft though as that is a sign of thrust bearing failure, which leads to contact between the wheels and the housings.

_________________
Stan
Mine - 94 Ram CTD not even remotely stock - 99 V8 RWD Intrepid, Carb'd 5.2 in front of a 42RH with an 8.25 out back.
Hers - 06 Liberty CRD, ORM, EHM, soon to have 3" TURBO back exhaust (yes I like overkill, my truck has two turbos )

Not to argue the point overmuch but all I reported was the observed play on 3 functional CRD turbos I've personally felt and geordi can correct me if I'm wrong but these turbos have no thrust washer in the normal sense. The "wheel" at the front of the turbo, where the airbox hose connects, is attached to a shaft that rides on a bronze? sleeve (what I think you mean by a journal) bearing on a thin film of oil. Excess side to side play will cause the tips of the turbo fins to contact the housing; yes I know wiggling the outside of the wheel is some distance from that bearing but all "good" turbos I've felt exhibit barely detectable side to side play and the 1 bad turbo I've felt and a couple I've seen via the forum had lots of side to side play.

Bottom line is the good turbos I'm personally familiar with had very slight for/aft play (small fraction of a mm) and only a bare hint of side to side play. Yes I would agree excess for/aft play could result in the tips of the turbo fins contacting the housing but I suspect that would go with serious side to side play as the sleeve bearing wore out.

Take a look at viewtopic.php?f=5&t=63439&hilit=rebuild+turbo for some pictures that may illustrate, no pun intended, what I'm trying to say,

_________________
Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Maybe it's because I'm used to dealing with turbos that are between 2 and 4 times the size of these GT2056Vs, but some side play is normal. Maybe it's not very noticable on the smaller frame, or with a single bearing tube and a much shorter shaft. But, I guaranty that a dial indicator will show measurable play. There is clearance between the wheels and the housings to make up for the allowable play. It may get awful close to the housing dry, but when oil pressure enters the turbo it centers the shaft in the bearing(s). However, even on the 80+ mm inducer turbos that I deal with, any for/aft play that can be felt is unacceptable. It could be due to the massive amounts of boost that we produce in larger and performance engines, I guess I'm just not familiar enough with anything smaller then a 54mm inducer. But I have rebuilt numerous turbos and there is indeed a traditional thrust washer, thrust collar (the short tophat as refered to in the linked thread), and oil slinger (the tall one that also had the front oil seal ring in it) in these GT2056s.

_________________
Stan
Mine - 94 Ram CTD not even remotely stock - 99 V8 RWD Intrepid, Carb'd 5.2 in front of a 42RH with an 8.25 out back.
Hers - 06 Liberty CRD, ORM, EHM, soon to have 3" TURBO back exhaust (yes I like overkill, my truck has two turbos )