2006 Liberty CRD, 79000 miles, new to us. Havent yet done the MAP cleaning, Ehm from the CCV yet, or changed hoses, but we have a clattering noise with light throttle between 2100-2800 rpm. Its a chirpy, warbling, metallic clatter diring light acceleration, that when it subsides all runs quiet.

Seems to be on the passenger side under the hood, but not sure since it doesnt do it all the time. The dealership (Go Jeep in Denver) once they got our money, and we demonstrated the noise luckily, claimed it was caused by the alternator, Im not sure what to believe.
Anyone have an opinion?

Does your OAD pulley on the alternator have red colored rust dust on the face of it?

Check your serpentine belt tensioner - is it jumping around while the engine is sitting at idler while revving the engine ? If so replace either your OAD pulley on your alternator or your alternator ASAP otherwise your tensioner and the serpentine belt will both need to be replaced very shortly!

Thanks, we will check to see if we have a sloppy serpentine belt. Yes the cover so to speak on the alternator does in fact have reddish coloring on it. Hmm, interesting, you mentiojed that. Why would this coloration indidate a sick alternator?

No, not sick alternator but sick alternator pulley which has a clutch in it (also called a decoupler pulley). Easy fix if you have the appropriate tool. I was fortunate and was able to borrow one from a generous forum member to replace mine.

No need for special tooling. I bought a 17mm allen wrench, cut a 2" piece and used it in a 17mm socket with my impact wrench.

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2005 Red KJ CRD, TOTALED 12-21-11

2005 Blue KJ Sport CRD, GDE, Magnaflow muffler, Destination AT, Amsoil filters, Fumoto, Timing belt and waterpump @ 99,600, 11 blade nylon fan, 2905 hayden fan clutch, EURO TC




Arguing about whether the glass is half full or half empty misses the point: the bartender cheated you.
Unknown

Would the dealer have decoupler pulley separate, or would i be better off at napa. Sounds like a fairly easy ix.

Dealer or online. When I did mine napa, advanced, etc did not have decoupler separate. if your at 120k miles or more, consider a reman alternator from advanced. Have read they sell them for around $150 with a new decoupler pulley.

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2005 Red KJ CRD, TOTALED 12-21-11

2005 Blue KJ Sport CRD, GDE, Magnaflow muffler, Destination AT, Amsoil filters, Fumoto, Timing belt and waterpump @ 99,600, 11 blade nylon fan, 2905 hayden fan clutch, EURO TC




Arguing about whether the glass is half full or half empty misses the point: the bartender cheated you.
Unknown

OK, appreciate this info. We were concerned this noise was more disasterous, like the turbo or something.
We have just turned 79,000 mi. Otherwise the liberty is in very good shape especially cosmetically. There is a rhythmic growl on deceleration,and when I informed the dealer the rear diff fluid was low and asked if that was something they should havecaught on their pre-deliv inspection, they went ahead and replaced the reat diff bearings. Dont why, other than they found issues. We still have the sound which they told us to get rid of it, we needed to replace ring and pinion, theyre glazed.. Guess this is a good enough reason to put in an e-locker.
But first we need to take care of the Alt pulley, put new 245/70/16 tires, elephant hose and cllean tha MAP.
Merry Christmas

No, you've got 30k miles or so before that happens. Make sure you do the Timing Belt at 100k or suffer as some of us have, also get away from 0w40 oil ASAP, and disable that EGR ASAP as well.

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Silver 2006 KJ 2.8L CRD Limited:
GDE ECO Tune / Fumoto Valve / E-Tecno GX3123 7v Glow Plugs / 2nd Gen Fuel Head / Mishimoto RED Hoses / Rockers/Lifters @ 114k / Hayden FC + 11 Blade Nylon / Sears P1 Battery / Transgo 45RFE-HD2 Reprogramming Kit / Timken Front Bearings

HI Nexus,
If I understand you right, we have 30K before we must replace the turbo??? or doing the timing chain, which we plan on doing on or before 100K To go away from the 0w-40 oil, what do you recommend for an oil replacement.
We use shell rotella t in our other diesels. ( 15W-40)
Been checking around for parts costs, since we need to replace our alternator decoupler pulley. Dealer wants $126.00 for the pulley, and Napa wants just $246 for the whole alternator.
We read on another thread about a deal with lifetime warrnaty at AutoZone for alternators, too, but don't see why we would replace alternator, when we just need a new pulley.
any insight?

Ok, need some expert advice before I locate a mechanic.

We have cleaned the MAP sensor, replaced the CAC hoses, performed the ELEPHANt HOSE mod, and just finished our first test drive with a NEW REMAN alternator with decoupler pulley., and the old alternatoer/pulley jerk twisting it by hand did have a squeak to it.
But the metallic clatter upon light acceleration between 2100-2800 rpm remains, our work has made no difference in that respect.

Any iIDEAS?????????? I'm still suspicious of the tirbo. We followed the dealers lead and the forums having light rust on the decoupler alternator pulley indicated that was our noise source. NUTZ!!

I think I missed the memo on 0w-40 oil.. we purchased our 2005 CRD @ 29k miles and I've driven it since then on Mobil 1 0w-40 Euro (as designated in the owners manual). Turbo seems fine thus far, @ 149k miles.

The timing chain - really does need to happen at 100k-105k as the failures seem to start as early as 110k and cluster around 130k.

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2005 Liberty CRD
2004.5 Cummins 5.9L TD, F1s, NV5600 6-speed in a '93 GMC Suburban

Installed new alternator from Napa (reman Mopar) the price matched the Mexico-made Duralast from Autozone, cost us $144.95 for part) Test drove jeep, and metallic clatter happened on queue as before.
unplugged M A F sensor on airbox aka ORM) test drove, no noise, plugged it back in, again the clatter.metallic noise happened

I use Rotella 5W-40, the synthetic version. Meets the specs and the VW people like it in TDIs.

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'05 Liberty CRD B100, SEGR - SOLD

'01 Beetle TDi B100, EGR delete
'83 Mercedes 240D B100, no EGR

--- SEGR Builder ---

I would be very cautious of 15W-40
the low end is only a factor in Cold weather startups - but Colorado can have a few of those.

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2005 CRD
stuff
Skeptic quod gratis asseritur, gratis negatur

Right now, our 2006 Liberty has the 0W-40 the dealership poured into it Our oh-ten Sprinter uses Mobil Oje ESP and our 99 Cummins Dodge 24 valve has Rotella T 15W-40. We also use Rotella in some of our classic cars because of the zinc content.