What oil weight do you use?

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2005 Red KJ CRD, TOTALED 12-21-11

2005 Blue KJ Sport CRD, GDE, Magnaflow muffler, Destination AT, Amsoil filters, Fumoto, Timing belt and waterpump @ 99,600, 11 blade nylon fan, 2905 hayden fan clutch, EURO TC




Arguing about whether the glass is half full or half empty misses the point: the bartender cheated you.
Unknown

I use Amsoil AMO 10W-40 with High Zinc.
Turbo is tight when I checked it at 100K, no lifter/rocker noise, and I can hear my Centrifuge wind down when I shut off the engine indicating I have great lubrication, better than when I used Rotella T6 5W-40.
Match the specs with high zinc and CI4+and you have a good OIL, screw the Chrysler North America recommendations that defy VM specs and trash turbos and lifter/rockers.

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2006 Pearl Green CRD
Magnaflow 2 1/2" Cat Back
KJ Extra Leg Room Brackets, Carter Lift Pump, V6 Airbox, ORM
Fuel cooler, Oil Separator, Progard 7
Gauges EGT Boost Trans Temp Oil Pres, Michelin LXT AT2 245 70 R16
7,000# Draw Tight hitch, PML EX Deep Trans Pan
Centrifuge, SunCoast, Transgo, RAM TCM, InMotion Stage 2
Wife's 99 TDI VW Beetle

I think I have to agree with this. If the lack of zinc in the oil (Which is SOLELY to protect the effing catalytic converter when you overfill the oil)... If that lack of zinc causes the turbos to fail, the bottom end to weaken (burning up rod bearings) then it should be a priority to put that zinc back in.

If I have to run Castrol BLEND in my TDI to get the proper lubrication... I will. I've already seen what the normal APPROVED oil does, with 'severe-service' change intervals... Blows the bottom end without ever running low on oil or pressure. If the answer is instead to use Mobil 1 TDT 5w40 and maybe a zinc additive, I'm ok with that too. I don't like that I can't buy Amsoil at <insert nearest parts store> while I'm out in the world, so I'd rather stick with easily-sourced options. Just in case I have a problem or am on a trip when I hit the mile marker for a change.

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Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

I plan to keep mine until I decide I won't drive anything that doesn't get 40 mpg. Yes, I would buy this same one again. I've driven just over 30k virtually trouble free miles in just under three years. It climbs mountain passes, does tolerably well off-road and does well in the snow. Just did a 2k mile round trip that included two major snow storms. No one went where I couldn't go. . . and no one was faster getting there (that is when the roads were really bad). Went out for some sport driving over the snow packed local pass just today.

I agree with the oil statements, however, I thought the low zinc was for dpf. Compression ignition rated oil seemed to have sufficient zinc until 2006. I'd go with Amsoil with specs like Warp. . . but I get the feeling I'm joining some weird pyramid scheme just to get motor oil.

MY big question is why aren't more guys getting UOA's? I'll be getting one with next change. . .which will happen when I join the pyramid scheme or decide on an alternative. Autozone sells M1 10/40 high zinc motorcycle oil a block away. Glend from the Aussie forum has simple guidelines for oil, and those guys don't have the bad problems.

Of course, YMMV

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'05 Sport CRD 107k miles. NOBODY knows everything.

I would have thought the 0w-40 Mobil Euro formula would at least be a decent choice if the EGR is neutered since it meets all the Euro diesel specs.

As I mentioned on another thread--I tried the Castrol Edge SPT 5w-40 Euro oil since it meets the older Euro A/3-B/4 specs for non-cat/dpf engines. The motor does run noticeably smoother and starts significantly quicker on cold starts when not plugged in compared to the 5w-40 T6 that I was running.

I may run a UOA in the spring.

98k trouble free miles as second owner, after I add the bypass I'll go with the amsoil with zinc

Was happy with mine for past 970 miles since tranny was replaced and now $%^&*() #3 glow plug is going bad on me. Seems like the stretch between the water pump at 103k miles till torque converter doo doo itself at 116k miles was the happiest point of ownership for me.

Its a love/hate relationship with me. I love no car payments and the functionality the CRD but hate the frequent headaches it causes me.

I'm happy with the CRD, but I've had my trial and tribulations with it over the years. I wish it wasn't my primary vehicle. I'm not afraid to wrench on it and since joining L.O.S.T. my interest in it keeps growing. I think the main issue with L.O.S.T. is the fact that some turn to it to solve problems. Those who don't have problems don't visit or don't visit frequently. That being said, I haven't been on in some time. So it appears that the majority are having problems, when in all likelihood the ratio is distorted.

I'm due for the timing belt change. This is where I wish it wasn't my daily driver. If I had the money, I'd get it lifted too. I'm on the original suspension and not many like to ride in it.

I envision driving it for some time. I see the adventures that others come back from with their posted pictures. I'd love to take it off-road and with the mods that include bumpers and towing hooks and camping etc...

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JW
'06 CRD - stock

well I have been here over 3 years since just before buying my crd. I still love it and have had few issues. I have spend time and money on things like a GDE tune, and provent to augment the crankcase vent. other than that I had a thermostat fail, some small electrical problems, sunroof leak and needed new brakes and tires.

my suspension is starting to ride rough too at 78,000 miles and I am replacing it soon with the OME suspension lift. I have the parts in hand now.

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2006 Liberty CRD Limited Deep Beryl Green Metallic Clear coat, Fumoto valve, MH ProVent (removed), GDE Eco tune,
OME 790/948 springs, OME struts, OME N132L shocks, Jeepin by Al A-arms, Hercules Terra Trac AT2 245/75R16
Weeks Stage 1 EGR delete, 5 volt steel glow plugs

84 K miles and still going strong. Recent trip from NC to KY netted 300 miles by the time it hit 3/4 tank - both on the outgoing and return legs. MY DAILY - AND ONLY - DRIVER FOR 2 1/2 YEARS IN SAN ANTONIO AND IT NEVER LEFT ME STRANDED. Monroe quickstruts and rear shocks, plus Michelin LTX MS2's 245/70, at 58 K miles, and the beast has never ridden better. Bendix brake pads, brake system flush, and rotors turned at 58 K miles - stock brake pads were crap, rears worn out by that time and discs looked like an LP album. Over 40 K miles on second Suncoast TC - my fault the first one was ruined, blasted Scangauge II made it drop out of gear at speed several times, and I allowed the tranny shop to use universal synthetic fluid - but now on straight ATF4 and the Scangauge consigned to the circular round file, not a hint of trouble in over 4 years. A set of power leather seats from an 02 has made it a joy to ride in. Doubled up on Kennedy lift pumps last year - from 4 to 8 psi - gave the beast enough low end grunt to push me back in the seat on WOT takeoff, and now gets at least 30 mpg interstate on bloody near ANY brand of diesel fuel - Airtex in-tank module in hand, for 15 psi, ready to go in at the first opportunity. Straight diet of Amsoil AMO 10W40 and a can of LubroMoly MOS2 moly additive at each oil change - plus a flush using cheap 30 weight oil, cheap oil filter, and LubroMoly engine flush to get ALL the soot out - runs quiet as a chuch mouse. Pete Baranko of DBW said that with a good 2 micron fuel filter, a good lift pump, and a steady diet of Power Service to help take care of any water in the fuel, we should easily see 300 to 350 K miles out of the injectors and CP3 injection pump - he added that for a HPCR system, we had a comparitively simple, rugged, and reliable design, compared to the later peizo injector systems.

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Mitchell Oates
'87 MB 300D Diamond Blue Metallic
'87 MB 300D - R.I.P. 12/08
'05 Sport CRD Stone White
Provent CCV Filter/AT2525 Muffler
Stanadyne 30 u/Cat 2 u Fuel Filters
Fumoto Drain/Fleetguard LF3487 Oil filter
V6 Airbox/Amsoil EAA Air Filter
Suncoast TC/Shift Kit/Aux Cooler
Kennedy Lift Pump/Return Fuel Cooler

I had two and was ultra happy. Incoming baby forced the sport libby out and my limited libby registers 91k mi on the clock with no issues. The only mods are GDE full torque (with f37 TC) and provent style oil separator.
Only parts I've had to replace that are non common replacement parts are thermostat, front bearing hubs and rear differential bearings (due to an idiotic mechaninc that did not fill the differential to the proper oil level).
All else had been religious maintenance and mobil 1 5w-40 every 9000k.

Synthesis: Very pleased.

108,000 trouble free miles. I plan on keeping it for years to come. I just love it.

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2006 Liberty CRD Limited ordered new from factory. Born on date 2-2006 GDE
eco tune. Updated fuel filter head. No lift pump. Stock glow plugs.
Silverado 4x4
Corvette
1962 Ford Falcon
2005 John Deere 5425
1968 1\2 ton 4x4 short bed Chevy

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06 Jeep Liberty Limited CRD
Biodiesel when possible 1,300 Miles per Acre
Synthetic Lubricants Specialists
http://www.lubedealer.com/ve

I've just bought my '02 CRD from my father who bought it new. 150,000 miles that have been if not trouble-free, then not disastrous either. Many long trips cross-Europe (we live there) and no breakdowns on any trips. Replacement needs been discovered between trips. So far, about US$ 4000 in different parts (regular service costs and two timing belt changes not included) over 10 years.

The KJ looks almost new to the eye and I'd love to keep it as a 2nd or even 3rd car. However, in my country, regular fees just to own an (old, diesel) car are steep.

Would be interesting to know what these costs are for you guys in the US? This is what my '02 CRD costs me just standing still (and I am a low-risk customer):

Government car tax: US$ 80/month (my modern, powerful '11 Volvo XC70 AWD Diesel, about US$ 60/month)

Full insurance: US$ 70/month (my Volvo about the same)

Oh, and the fuel: gas and diesel costs about the same over here, about US$ 8,20 per gallon. I'm glad diesel cars at least get better MPG...

How expensive/cheap are these things for you?

These are interesting issues. You should start another whole thread to discuss them. I, for one, would trade my very nice '05 straight across for an '02. I like the 2.5 with manual trans and FRONT AXLE. PS, where is the wide world are you located?

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'05 Sport CRD 107k miles. NOBODY knows everything.

@TJ2:
I'm located in Sweden.

Forgive my ignorance, but what's the difference with the front axle between a '02 and a '05 (that makes the '02 better)?

154000 plan on keeping mine. Just got back from Destin Fl pulled travel trailer from Tulsa ok. 14 hours one way. 70-75 all the way not small towns. The little tractor pulls great up hill. Planning on updating the torque converter and a GDE tow tune. 300000 not problem I think the key is not working on the rigs yourself. Must know them to get deep into the motor of your asking for trouble. my two cents Great tractor

Bought new 02/05. 55k on the machine since. Liked it better before it was F37'd. Haven't been bothered ENOUGH by it to GDE it. Was in the first found of F37 - before it was known that Diamler Chrysler was neutering the beast. And they were installing only marginally better TCs. Beyond that, the "problems" that I've had with it were LIBERTY problems (save the thermostat), rather than CRD problems. I SEGR'd it when that became an option.

It is my (mostly) daily driver (supplement with motorcycle) and I pull a 6x12 enclosed MC race trailer. I haven't found another vehicle as capable which is as efficient. I'm not in love with it, and when my needs change to the point that it no longer meets them, it will be gone. Until then - I'm happy with it.

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Current Stable: (YES, I have a problem. NO, I don't want "help".)
FOUR Wheelers: 05 Jeep CRD Liberty, 09 VW Sportwagen TDI, 2000, Honda Odyssey, 1994 Mazda Miata, 2000 Mazda Miata
TWO Wheelers: 06 Triumph 675, 04 BMW R1150RT

Yesterday I pulled a U-haul trailer up and over Vail Pass (Just over 10,000 feet) in a snow storm, with 4 wheel drive engaged ,oversized tires, The CRD still did'nt even act like a trailer was back there. The trailer wasn't heavy at all, 5x8 enclosed with some furniture inside. I pulled the same trailer this last summer with an XJ with a the 4.0L and it acted like it was working hard and got warm (180,000 miles on it).

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2008 Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon
2.5 Teraflex Lift
35" MT/R's

Lifted CRD - SOLD

55000 on my 05. I had some issues after the first year, but plan on keeping it until the body falls off or the motor dies. Whichever comes first!

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2005 Limited CRD, GDE tune, Samco hoses.